Question about GE DPGT750GC Gas Dryer
So, it hasnt been used in about 2 months. it sat out in a cold garage. but was back up to 'room temp' when we hooked it up. the gas line is secure. the venting is proper. the dryer's level.
after turning it on, not much has happened. a faint 'beeping' signal comes out of it every few seconds or so, and signal lasts about 2 secs. the dryer will tumble and kinda gets a weak luke-warm. i heard this clicking (blower motor i think) as if it were a rotating clicking noise. then i heard what sounded like a piece of plastic drop. then poof! the blower kicked on and the dryer started crankin'! working great. thought maybe something needed to settle.
note* i did have this dryer on its side while moving it in the back of my pick-up truck. (which was covered from the elements w/ a cap & laid on soft blankets).*
after several uses some serious noises started coming out of it. a severe clicking rotating plastic thumping, sounded like hard plastics banging, clicking rotating, hard to explain..
i reset the dryer. now it starts up, and just rotates, blower never kicks on. doesnt really get hot, back to a weak luke-warm. (i threw a wet towel in there..nothing, no heat/blower) nothing going through the vent either. so..i was thinking about pulling the back off, but figured i'd ask you guys first.
also, do you think it's worth it to call in a Sears professional? costs involved?
yeah man, any help would be appreciated, the thing's out of warranty, and well..i need a working dryer, full household. laundry piles up!
You may have a bad timer: Also, there may be a separate thermal fuse for the motor, usually an inch long white plastic one attached to the blower housing.
Posted on Jun 08, 2007
SOURCE: Squeeking noise
Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.
Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.
My name is Frank...
Regarding your possibly broken dryer.
I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.
I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.
This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.
Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.
All else is basically the same...
In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.
Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!
If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.
If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).
Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.
I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....
Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.
Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...
The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.
I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!
As to your other possible noise scenario -
The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!
Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.
The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.
Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.
Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.
The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.
The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!
I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!
That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.
I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.
Again - I hope the info helps you out...
Posted on Mar 05, 2008
Hello coylejm, Thank goodness, 220v has a BAD reputation. Your hunch is correct. To confirm use a DVM to check the heating elements conductivity. Open one terminal of the element and measure ohms of the terminal. A very unlickley chance you damaged the control box. Merry Christmas.
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
Hi, It sounds like the coils on top the gas valve are bad. If the ignitor glows but shuts off before a flame, the coils need changed.
I hope this helps. If I can assist you further, please let me know.
Posted on May 25, 2009
sounds like your motor start capacitor is defective, its usually mounted on the motor case and is cylindrical in shape and will have two wires coming out one end,unplug the unit and then take an insulated screw driver and short the two terminals of the cap before touching in case it still has some residual charge remaining
Posted on Sep 20, 2009
If you are not getting heat it could be several things like a bad limit switch or element burned out, the only way to know for sure is with a test meter to track the flow of electricity. If you are not comfortable with electric wiring it is best to call a repairman if you are comfortable useing a volt meter and a ohm meter I can walk you through the steps.
Posted on Apr 17, 2010
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