Question about GE DPGT750GC Gas Dryer

Open Question

Dryer is acting up.

So, it hasnt been used in about 2 months.  it sat out in a cold garage.  but was back up to 'room temp' when we hooked it up.  the gas line is secure.  the venting is proper.  the dryer's level.   after turning it on, not much has happened.  a faint 'beeping' signal comes out of it every few seconds or so, and signal lasts about 2 secs.  the dryer will tumble and kinda gets a weak luke-warm.  i heard this clicking (blower motor i think) as if it were a rotating clicking noise.  then i heard what sounded like a piece of plastic drop.  then poof! the blower kicked on and the dryer started crankin'! working great.  thought maybe something needed to settle.   note* i did have this dryer on its side while moving it in the back of my pick-up truck.  (which was covered from the elements w/ a cap & laid on soft blankets).* after several uses some serious noises started coming out of it.  a severe clicking rotating plastic thumping, sounded like hard plastics banging, clicking rotating, hard to explain.. i reset the dryer.  now it starts up, and just rotates, blower never kicks on.  doesnt really get hot, back to a weak luke-warm.  (i threw a wet towel in there..nothing, no heat/blower)  nothing going through the vent either.  so..i was thinking about pulling the back off, but figured i'd ask you guys first. also, do you think it's worth it to call in a Sears professional?  costs involved?   yeah man, any help would be appreciated, the thing's out of warranty, and well..i need a working dryer, full household.  laundry piles up!   - thx, Angelo 

Posted by on

6 Suggested Answers

  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer will not start. Ge DX4500EAoWW

You may have a bad timer: Also, there may be a separate thermal fuse for the motor, usually an inch long white plastic one attached to the blower housing.

Posted on Jun 08, 2007

  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Squeeking noise

Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.

Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.


My name is Frank...

Regarding your possibly broken dryer.

I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.

I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.

This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.

Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.

All else is basically the same...

In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.

Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!

If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.

If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).

Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.

I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....

Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.

Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...

The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.

I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!

As to your other possible noise scenario -

The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!

Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.

The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.

Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.

Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.

The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.

The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!

I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!

That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.

I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.

Again - I hope the info helps you out...

Best regards,


Posted on Mar 05, 2008

  • 157 Answers

SOURCE: GE dryer tumbles, but there's no heat

Hello coylejm, Thank goodness, 220v has a BAD reputation. Your hunch is correct. To confirm use a DVM to check the heating elements conductivity. Open one terminal of the element and measure ohms of the terminal. A very unlickley chance you damaged the control box. Merry Christmas.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

  • 1136 Answers

SOURCE: GE Gas Dryer Model #dbvh512gfoww heat problems

Hi, It sounds like the coils on top the gas valve are bad. If the ignitor glows but shuts off before a flame, the coils need changed.
I hope this helps. If I can assist you further, please let me know.


Posted on May 25, 2009

  • 1922 Answers

SOURCE: i have a GE DWSR463EG2WW dryer 3 months out of

sounds like your motor start capacitor is defective, its usually mounted on the motor case and is cylindrical in shape and will have two wires coming out one end,unplug the unit and then take an insulated screw driver and short the two terminals of the cap before touching in case it still has some residual charge remaining

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: The dryer is not blowing air. I checked the vent,

If you are not getting heat it could be several things like a bad limit switch or element burned out, the only way to know for sure is with a test meter to track the flow of electricity. If you are not comfortable with electric wiring it is best to call a repairman if you are comfortable useing a volt meter and a ohm meter I can walk you through the steps.

Posted on Apr 17, 2010

Add Your Answer

0 characters

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add


1 Points

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Dryer is not getting hotv

In order of probability, depending on the year and model of the dryuer.
1) Your heating element has "bit the dust" (failed).
2) One of the several "overheat thermostats" that are located in the rear or bottom of the inside of the dryer has failed.
3) One of the wires inside your machine (either near the heating element, or connected to the heating element) has burned in two.
4) You have no current to that "leg" of the dryer, the circuit breakier (in you hall, laundry room, garage, or wherever) is popped.
5) The connector board where your dryer cord hooks to your dryer is "toasted".
Should you decide to fix it yourself, a question to "fixya" could cause you to receive step-by-step instructions.
Be blessed

Feb 11, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

I've got a 2 yr old Bosch Exxcel dryer but its in my garage and we've recently had unprecidented cold weather with night temps of -12C The dryer seems to work fine but it keeps stopping after one cycle...

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

yes and it has to be around 35 to 40 to defrost...may take 3 days at that temp

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck

Dec 22, 2010 | Bosch Dryers

1 Answer

I could not find the ohm readings for the thermistor for a DV293 samsung dryer. Anybody know what they shoud be at room temp?

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Look inside the back of the dryer. Most Samsung dryers have a tech sheet in a clear envelope usually in the back of the dryer. The thermistor values are on the tech sheet.
I am pretty sure this is the number for it but.... not 100% PN: DC32-00007a.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,


Oct 13, 2010 | Samsung DV328AE Electric Dryer

1 Answer

The dryer is under a year old and was setting in the garage for 6 months not being used. Now its hooked up and operates but does not heat up. Help?

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} Hi,
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...


Sep 14, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer


Do you have fuses or breaker? If you have fuses one fuse may be burnt out.

Jul 12, 2010 | Kenmore 62822 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Kenmore HE Dryer not blowing hot air

I have a gas kenmore dryer... the drum runs- it blows air and for just a few minutes warm air but after a few minutes the air is cold. I have cleaned the vent checked it good. I didn't see the fuse on the back I have the bottom latch open and see several wires that can be disconnected; snap together.

Mar 10, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer heat only at room temp.

You have a thermal fuse and a hi limit thermostat and a flame sensor to check.
Could be any one of the 3 or all 3.

Mar 02, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer sat outside for 5 months

You need a test instrument called a megger to tell the value of the insulation of the machine, one thing you can do is use an ohm meter between the power leads and frame, if you have a lot of resistance it is likely you can use it.

Is it inside now in a temp controlled area?

Can you get the back off with taking out probably several screws to expose the insides?

If so you can set a heater with a blower by it and blow warm air inside to dry out any wet insulation, the goal is to make sure no insulation anywhere, controls, wiring, motor is still wet and will conduct when you first plug it in.

Nov 14, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer not working

Try without the vent hooked up and see if that works...
if so the output is blocked some where

also monitor temp from vent outlet on dryer and see if the temp is constant.. should regulate from around 130 to 150

Oct 29, 2007 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

Not finding what you are looking for?
GE DPGT750GC Gas Dryer Logo

Related Topics:

29 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top GE Dryers Experts

Richard Roth
Richard Roth

Level 3 Expert

9472 Answers

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4625 Answers


Level 3 Expert

2963 Answers

Are you a GE Dryer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides