Question about Stoves 1200DFa Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range

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EUROLEC 3572 9506 LPG GAS OVEN

Can anyone tell me where I can get a manual for this oven, also help with a technical prob - the oven will ignite but wont stay on.
Thanks

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  • Gerrit_2 Jan 28, 2008

    Oven will light but the gas supply cuts out when I stop pressing the gas supply button.

  • Anonymous Jul 23, 2008

    Eurolec oven 600GTF/C 10-11 years old, won't keep heat, gas will not go back on itself.

    I turn oven back to start to reignite but gas goes out again and process goes on.

    Called repairman/AGL who came and showed oven did go back on when temp was down ie he opened oven door, but now i tried to cook to see if it was working at 230 degrees C and heat went down and gas went out - can you help with solution and tradesman in Sdney area?

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OK sista62, here is your solution. The problem is that the thermocouple that controls the valve supplying gas to the ovenjet is not working. A new thermocouple is available from http://blgas.com.au/online/category4_1.htm and will cost about AUD$40.00.


The control valve is located right behind the knob on the frontpanel (the centre one that controls both the oven and the grill.) You will see two small copper tubes going into the control valve. These are the thermocouple tubes, one comes from the griller and the other from the ovenjet. All the other knobs only have one thermocouple for each of the topplate burners.

If you want to test before you buy, disconnect the thermocouple from from one of the topplate burners and connect it to the one for the oven control valve. Now turn on the topplate burner and keep it going by holding the knob down on the front panel for this burner. Now light the oven burner and it should stay on.

Good luck.

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

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Here is some more information regarding a fix and also a "workaround", assing to the excellent information provided by "Gerrit_2" in his reply.

BACKGROUND INFO.

The purpose of the thermocouple is to feed back the temperature of the oven (or stovetop gas ring as the case may be) to the gas flow safety mechanism located behind the control knob. There are two parts to the thermocouple - the heat sensor (and attached copper lead) and the safety control device. The thermocouple prevents the gas flowing unless the burner is actually lit, in order to prevent a dangerous "free flow" situation whereby unlit gas flows due to either a flameout, or where the knob has accidentally been turned on. When you press on the knob to light the burner, you are actually overriding the safety cutoff mechanism temporarily, until such time as the thermocouple senses heat and then allows the gas to flow freely.

If your oven or burner won't stay on when you release the knob, one of these two thermocouple components has failed.

If both the oven, and the grill burner won't stay lit, then the problem lies with the safety control device component as it is the only component that is common (or shared) between the grill and the oven burner. If, for example, it is only the oven burner that won't stay lit (whilst the grill will light) then it is the oven's heat sensor that is specifically the problem.

As the safety mechanism (in the control knob) has the most moving parts, it is more likely that this is where the problem will lie as there is more to go wrong. When replacing the thermocouple, always change the safety mechanism first as it both more likely to be the failed component, and also far easier a job than pulling out the entire copper connection pipe and the heat sensor (located at the burner). If changing that component fixes the problem, then you've saved yourself considerable extra effort.

HOW TO FIX.

- It goes almost without saying, but only do this job on a cold oven...
- Tools: Phillips head screwdriver, very small adjustable spanner, small pair of pliers, set of open spanners (wrenches).
- IMPORTANT SAFETY INFO: the edges of the control panel and various other stainless steel items that you're going to remove are razor sharp. Beware cut fingers when handling these items. The sharp edges are hidden when it is all together, but once you start taking it apart you'll expose dangerously sharp edges. You have been warned!
- IMPORTANT SAFETY INFO 2: Gas explodes and suffocates. Electricity stops your heart. People die. Property is destroyed. Know what you're doing or don't do it.

1. Turn off the gas at the main supply, or whatever you have to do isolate the oven from the domestic gas supply. Isolate the oven electrically (it will be connected to the 240/120v supply for the clock or the "spark" mechanism). If you can't do both of these two steps, proceed no further!
2. Remove the side trims from the front of the oven by removing the 4 Phillips head screws (side of the oven, and also inside - open the oven door and you'll see a couple of screws on the front edge of the opening.
3. Remove the control knobs. They should just pull off, but if they are a bit stuck then carefully use a "butter knife" to wedge them off, taking care not to scratch the front surface of the panel. Unscrew the control panel by removing the screws located inside the oven, just under the control panel. Note that it won't come off entirely until you've done the next step.
4. Remove all the top burner paraphernalia, until just the brushed steel stovetop is left. Remove this stovetop by undoing the four phillips head screws that hold it down. The screws are roughly in each corner of the stovetop.Tip the control panel forward a little to release the trim strip that hooks into both the control panel and the stovetop. The control panel fascia should come completely off, leaving just the spark starter and timer subpanel hanging by its wires.
5. You should now have a sink full of parts that are covered in cooking yuk, leaving you amazed that the oven that you thought was nice and clean is actually grotty and greasy behind the scenes. Welcome to the joys of oven DIYing! You should also now be able to see the back of the control knobs, and this is where the fun begins.
6. Make sure you know which knob is associated with which burner. Check the picture on the control panel if in doubt. You will see a thin (2.5mm) copper pipe running from the back of the control knob to the burner, or in the case of the oven and the grill, disappearing into the bowels of the oven. In the case of the control knob for the oven and the grill there are two copper pipes, one running to the oven and one to the grill. The following instructions apply only to the knob for the burner that won't light.
7. To remove the thermocouple safety mechanism you need to first unscrew the copper pipe from the back of the brass housing by undoing the small nut. These are difficult to reach with a spanner. In an ideal world you'll have a a small open spanner (wrench) of just the right size. Or, like me, you'll make do with a small adjustable spanner and a pair of a pliers and an infinite patience. Once the nut is entirely unscrewed, pull the copper pipe out and carefully bend it slightly back to make a little room to work. Do NOT sharply bend the pipe. In the case of the oven/grill knob, make sure you undo both copper pipes.
8. Undo the brass housing using a suitable spanner or adjustable spanner.
9. Once the housing is removed you can remove the flow control safety component of the thermocouple - it should just slide out. It will look like a small bullet shaped object made of an opaque plastic, with a small piston extending from one end. The piston is held out by a spring, and on the end of the piston is a flat surface with a rubber seal attached.
10. If you have a replacement handy, then at this point simply put in the replacement and then tighten the brass housing, followed by the copper piping. Proceed to "TESTING".
11. Otherwise you're going to need to order a replacement part at this point. It is possible however to disable the safety gas flow cutoff function of the thermocouple as a temporary workaround, enabling you to put everything back together again with everything working, while you wait for your replacement part.

SAFETY WARNING: Doing so may be illegal in your jurisdiction and may render your insurance invalid in case of a house fire that starts from the oven. I claim no responsibility for whether you do this, I'll just tell you how to do it.

That said, you can temporarily override the thermocouple flow control by removing the spring from the piston. Using a set of wire cutters, snip the spring and then using a set of pliers carefully unravel the spring from the piston and discard. Then replace the flow control "bullet" back into the brass housing, tighten and restore the copper piping, and then proceed to "TESTING".

TESTING.
1. Leaving the electricity isolated, restore the gas flow. If whatever you're doing to restore the gas flow involves you being a long way from the oven, it is best to have someone else do that for you so that you can stay next to the oven and listen for leaks so that you can immediately get your helper to shut off supply again.
2. Assuming no leaks present: turn on the gas flow to the oven using the control knob and light the burner. Note: if you performed the workaround there is now no need to push on the knob to get it to light. In other words, if you did the workaround then the gas flows "full on" as soon as the knob is turned - light it immediately before gas builds up too much. All being good, the burner should now light and stay lit.
3. In reverse order from the removal process, replace all the other components.
4. Perform a lighting test for all burners.
5. Reconnect electricity supply.
6. Bask in the enjoyment of having saved a lot of money. Well done.

Stay human....
From RidgeSong.

Posted on Jan 14, 2010

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Glass door mounted with two screws from handle and glue on bottom or double sided tape

where can i get double sided tape which is heat resistant

Posted on Dec 02, 2009

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