The power to the system was shut off at a light switch on accident and everything that was plugged into the power strip shut off but it all came back on except the phillips home theater system and now it wont even show lights or anything.... please help
As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Perhaps the surge strip has blown a fuse. Try plugging directly into a wall socket, bypassing the surge strip. If it lights up, then you know you have to get a new surge strip. In any event, it is most likely a fuse that's either in the surge strip itself or in the rear of your Philips receiver, near where the AC plugs into the chassis. All electrical appliances and devices have a fuse. Find it and take a look and see if you can ascertain if the nicad wire is broken inside.
Did you move it recently? Sometimes the speaker wires are stripped too long and short out against each other in the back
Disconnect EVERYTHING from the unit but please take great care to document how everything is connected so you can connect it again the same way.
IF the unit powers on fine with everything dis-connected, I can assume that you have a connections problem with the speaker wires being the most likely culprit.
Make sure your speaker wires are not stripped too long where bare copper is touching other terminals OR make sure the speaker wire is pushed cleanly into the speaker connections without stray wires to cause a short.
Also make sure you have the speaker wires connected to the proper terminals and are not mis-wired into the wrong terminals.
IF it still shuts down after a few seconds with nothing connected then there is an internal problem that will need to be repaired.
Two thing here.
#one the internal fuse has blown unlikely as the standby light is powered.
Two the power supply unit or switch is faulty.
get some one electrical component with the unit unpluged open the case and check any internal fuses have not blown.
Two check capacities on the power board these are large cylindrical shaped objects. These can dry out and or exploded if faulty relatively cheap to replace.
Second check the power switch actual powers the unit again someone with a multi meter and electrical compertent.
It is probably worth replacing either a capacity or switch anything else may prove false economy
I have replaced power board on other units but to be honest unless the unit was very expensive I would buy new
First, please check that you have everything switched correctly. If you still have no audio, any functions, but the unit turns on, you may have DC Offset, meaning a damaged amplifier. For more information, please contact me at audioserviceclinic.com. Thank you.
Have you checked that the speaker on/off switches have not been bumped also. They are often at the left hand end of the amp next to the power switch and easy to turn on. A Tape monitor switch engaged will also give you those symptoms. Check them out and get back to me here if you cant find the problem
Did you get sound through the entire system after plugging in the headphones? If so, the headphone jack is acting as a switch and probably has some dirt/debris that should be cleaned. The easiest way to do this is to get some electronic switch cleaner (one that contains a lubricant as well) and spray into the headphone jack. Insert and remove the headphoe plug a number of times and the problem should be resolved.
Update this if the problem returns and we'll look further.
Hi, best practice when troubleshooting a no-sound Bose Lifesytle system is to first begin with the internal sources (i.e. the AM/FM). Bose Lifestyle system when connected properly (media center and bass box via the data cable) should show a steady green light underneath the bass module. Begin by simply playing AM/FM tuner and try to increase the volume till 45 (normally the sound becomes audible at this level). If the system still has no sound, then try to check if the bass module is steady green. When you see a blinking green LED (slow green) then do kindly check the DIP siwtch (red latch switch with white mini switches) just beside the Light and data connection. All of the switches should be in "ON" position (basically toggled upwards with the arrow marking indication). Before changing DIP switch settings do ensure that the bass module is not connected to the electrical power. after ensuring that all DIP switch are in the "ON" position, connect the data cable firs and then power up the bass module. Then you should see the bass module blink green twice and once you turn on the nedia center, the green blinking should turn steady green. That should sort out your problem.
Also do note tha this procedure applies only to Series II Lifesytle System and does not include the Series IV (with the smaller bass module).
If all still fails, there is an internal problem with the bass module which would require servicing.