The flash burns the photo, over over exposure,

If you are sure you are in automatic mode, the green camera logo on the top dial, your pictures have to be correct.
The exposure compensation should not be available in automatic, so that can't be the reason. (if you are in automatic)
The only thing you could look for, is the exposure metering. There you can chose 3 modes, and I do advise to chose Multi-pattern (should be default) because then not only the centre is measured.
If the pictures stay too dark, while in automatic and Multi-pattern, i think your camera is defect. It has nothing to do with the battery. If the battery voltage drops beneath a certain point the camera will stop completely and not work half.

i don't think it is an issue with the printer, try increasing the brittleness using some photo processing software and then try.

Check Exposure compensation. If you have a negative number all photos can be dark with flash or no flash.

Not really. It could screw up the exposure, burn your finger, and damage the flash. If you simply don't want the flash to affect your photo, turn it off. See http://docs.esupport.sony.com/dvimag/DSC-W710_W730_guide/eng/contents/05/02/03/03.html

I'm not a Nikon CLS user, but I believe what you are seeing is the pre-flash that determines exposure of the subject before the shutter opens to take the picture. This flash shouldn't contribute to the overall exposure of the photo. There is a brilliant book by Joe McNally called Hot Shoe Diaries that talks extensively about Nikons CLS.

Try change the exposure of the camera: start the camera, set the dial to 'I' (automatic iso), then press the 'up' menu near the display until 'exposure' settings appear. move the slider to the left/right, according to your preference.
I reccomend using the automatic iso for taking pictures, it automatically adjust exposure.

Digital cameras allow you to take pictures at different quality setting. The higher the setting the better the photo quality. Higher settings use more memory then lower settings. If you intend to make prints, always use a medium or high setting. The low setting should only be used when all you want to do is view the pictures on your computer or send them by email or over the Internet.

Recommended camera settings for portraits:
Focal length: 100 mm
Aperture: F2.8 (as large a f/stop as is available for proper exposure)
Exposure / Shooting Mode: Aperture Priority / Portrait
Flash: Fill-in, if face is in shadow

Recommended camera settings for landscapes:
Focal length: 38 mm
Aperture: F16 (as small a f/stop as is available for proper exposure)
Exposure / Shooting Mode: Aperture Priority / Landscape
Tripod: Yes, for long exposures

Digital Camera Tutorial - Better Photo Taking - Taking Digital ...Jus check this site for more details

There are dozens of causes of inconsistent exposure with automatic flash systems. More common ones are inadequate recycling time (shooting before the ready light comes on), weak batteries that lengthen the recycling time or an intermittent anomaly in the internal circuitry of the unit which can only be traced by a qualified technician.

If the unit is used in auto mode (not TTL) dirt or ones hand can block the photo-electric sensor on the unit and affect exposure accuracy.

One other cause of inaccurate exposure is something called “subject failure”. This can occur in a large room like a church, ballroom, gym or a large rotunda. What happens is the automatic system in the flash or the TTL system in the camera reads the entire room and not a smaller subject in the image. Think of a bride and groom dancing in a large hall, the system would read all the space and possible darkness surrounding the subject and overexpose the subject. This often happens with automatic flash equipment that was originally designed for film cameras. On DSLRs, the sensor in the camera may react differently in terms of the area that it is reading. Some of the newer flash units are more compatible with digital equipment.

If you are missing only 1 shot out of 20- that’s not too bad considering all the variables.

I hope this helps!

PS- If there are problems in the circuitry, unless you are an experienced technician with high voltage devices, it is not advisable to try and service the unit at home. Many flash units harbor lethal voltages that can cause burns, nerve damage, serious electrical shock or even death. Theses voltages can remain in the unit even after it is turned off.

Ed

Actually you cannot take 'High Speed' photos and flash they way you are thinking- Even even with high spec pro cameras - it does not work that way. The Flash speed is in the order of 10,000th sec. So all the shutter has to do is open for a long exposure - because synching the the flash is hit or miss And it is the Flash that does the exposure.

Use the bracket exposure method. or read the apeture off then up a stop.