I need a projector with a brighter output. I understand there was a design change in the Kodak Ektagraphic III (E3) line in mid 1996 to a brighter lamp module. I also see that the appearance of the E3 has changed. How do i make sure i am buying the brighter version/
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: Koday Ektagraphic III projection lamp differences
The newest style eliminated the heat absorbing lens and (I think) made the mirror do that job. This improved the light output marginally. I don't know if the new style of lamp module is still available or not. You can ask a Kodak dealer or if in the US/Canada (shipping applies) try www.micro-tolls.com and search for p/n 2H2256.
Alternatively you can use EXW lamps which are high brightness (though still 300 watts). However these are very expensive and have a short lamp life...15 hours I think.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Supplied with 82V, 300W EXR lamp Projection Lamps Quartz-halogen 82 V projection lamps- Here is service manual link http://resources.kodak.com/support/pdf/en/manuals/slideProj/manual/ektagraphic_sm.pdf Several different Models all say EXR 300W As CORRECT Bulb : EXR, 300 W (35-hour lamp life at full lamp/medium-brightness) Sampling of other lamps: EXY (200 hours/less brightness) EXW (15 hours/maximum brightness) FHS (70 hours/medium brightness) Use combinations of lamp brightness, plus half- and full-lamp settings to approximate image brightness in multi-projector presentations. Lamp Tips • Projector operation on line voltages above 125 volts greatly reduces the lamp life. • Unplug the projector before changing the lamp. • Allow for unrestricted flow of air to the exhaust vent to prolong lamp life. • Gently wipe off any fingerprints with a soft cloth moistened with rubbing alcohol.
Ektagraphic III A did not have remote focus. Someone has probably substituted a remote from a higher functioning model on this projector. The forward / reverse functions on the supplied remote will continue to function correctly, but the focus buttons will not.
Good Luck !! Jim
On an Ektagraphic III-A there is an internal adjustment you can make of the wire that captures the slide change mechanism after one revolution (or ONE slide change). Over time and usage that wire either breaks off, burns off or gets out of adjustment. Look at the attached diagram for more detail:
First of all, the shutter will only open IF there is a slide in the gate. Assuming there is a slide in the gate, there are 2 things that could be preventing the shutter from opening: 1. Most likely - the shutter is spring-loaded. If the spring unhooks or is missing, the shutter will not open. 2. There is an adjustment that needs to be made after the spring is replaced or re-hooked (or just is out of adjustment. Refer to the Kodak Ektagraphic Service Manual @ the Kodak web site: http://resources.kodak.com/support/pdf/en/manuals/slideProj/manual/ektagraphic_sm.pdf Good Luck! Jim
If this is a Kodak Slide Projector of the last generation Carousel 4xxx or 5xxx series or Ektagraphic III, then the cause of this line of light on your screen is a light leak from an out-of-position or missing light baffle in the lamp module. Contact a factory-trained repair dealer to verify the problem and get it fixed.
First of all, verify you are using the correct lamp: it should be a 120volt, 300watt, ANSI Code "ELH" lamp. (This may seem too basic, but you'd be surprised at the number of people who try the incorrect lamp). If the lamp is correct and you can not insert it by pushing the base of the lamp into the terminal connector relatively easily, then chances are you have a build-up of material on one or both of the lamp contacts caused by arcing (arcing is caused by loose lamp terminal contacts). If this is the case, then you need to replace the lamp terminal assembly (the ceramic-like white piece the lamp terminals should slide into). You should still be able to buy a lamp terminal assembly for your Ektagraphic AF-1 from: www.micro-tools.com Good Luck !!
Based on your description, I suspect the coil spring that tensions the "dark shutter" has either broken or has popped off it's mount. To be absolutely sure, take your projector to a factory-trained repair dealer.
This is a "wear problem" called continuous cycle. Pretty common, actually. It requires an adjustment of the cycle contact wire. Unplug the projector, turn the projector upside down and remove the lamp module from the back. Remove the six T-15 TORX screws that hold the bottom cover in place. Gently pull (the power cord is secured to the inside of the bottom cover) the bottom cover off & lay it next to the projector. Near the center of the projector you will see the cycle wire and pad (refer to the attached pic). You will need to carefully(!) bend the "J"-shaped wire so that when the projector is "idling", the wire lays at the center of the pad. Bend a very little, plug it in and cycle it a couple of times. If it still continuous cycles, unplug & bend a little more. It usually takes 3 or 4 adjustments before you get it in the correct position. Good Luck !!