Re: The light wont turn on and my computer wont read my...
It could be defaulting to a drive letter which is already been used. So go to disk management (right click on My Computer, click on management then click on disk management) and make sure the usb drive is showing up there and if it is then change the drive letter.
Re: The light wont turn on and my computer wont read my...
I had the same problem, and as a last ditch effort I pryed open the casing, and then took the plastic piece off of the actual chip, leaving just the usb neck attached to the circuit board and it worked.
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The "check engine" light is an indicator for a system that monitors many electronic functions in the system, also called the "malfunction indicator lamp" (MIL). It can come on for any of hundreds of different causes from any of the systems that the computer monitors. Some are very important and can lead to further component or engine damage and some are emissions related not as serious but still a problem and need to be repaired.
Your first step is to have the computer scanned to retrieve the trouble codes that were set when the check engine light came on. Those codes will give you specific information about what the computer saw and will get you pointed in the right direction to find your problem. With a 1996 or newer and some 95 cars and you have an AutoZone or Advanced auto parts in your area, they will read them for free. Once you have these code numbers, we can be a lot more specific about what your problem may be.
I have approximately 6 or more of the HP G61 and DV6series laptops which use the same charger and battery. Your warranty if one year so don't expect HP to cover it. However, it you bought the computer using a gold or platinum credit card, your credit card company doubles the manufacturer's warranty. But even if you didn't have this solution, you can go online to Ebay and find lots of batteries for far less than HP that are just as good or better for less than $30 including shipping. I even have a 9600 mAh battery for extended usage and this can be purchase for around $45. Note that this is larger than the original battery and protrudes from the bottom surface although it fits perfectly
As long as we are on the subject of laptops, I would also like to add two more important comments. Heat dissipation is always an issue in laptops and it is strongly recommended that you not put the laptop on surfaces like beds, sofas, etc. that hold heat. Instead a hard surface or even better a laptop chiller that has fans and is powered by a USB port.
A final important recommendation for ALL PC users. As more and more of your professional and person efforts move to your computer, the important information you have is in danger if you do not have some backup strategy. Data can easily be backed up by almost any backup solution. But backing up your system and software is more complex. My preferred solution is Acronis TrueImage. This should support all internal drives, external USB, firewire, eSata drives. You can even backup information to a server on a wired network.
Sorry to say that is the click of death for a hard drive. Sometimes you can start and stop the drive a few times and it will come back to life (shortly) hopefully long enough to pull any important data from it. most times though it is time for a new drive. Suggest you visit the dive companies website an see if your is still covered under warrenty - at least you can have it replaced if it is.
If you do nto care about the data on the drive you can attempt to blow away the partion on it and make new partions and format the drive but I personally would not trust the drive for any important data.
Same thing just happened to a single drive NAS I have/had. Now I'm building a Raid 5 4 drive NAS for our important data.
First--does the hard drive spin up and the fan start (you can hear that)--also, you will see the hard drive light flicker. If so, I'd try an external monitor to see if the screen might be the problem. If nothing starts--all you get is the power light, then you have a larger problem--most likely a motherboard. You haven't lost your data--the data can usually be read by taking the hard drive out and attaching it to another computer and reading it (yes, they make adapters to enable you to read small hard drives (I use one at my business)
Most if not all digital cameras would be read as an "external mass storage device". Based on your description, it is possible that it is the USB port of the PC that has an issue and not the camera. A couple of things that you can try:
verify that the PC's USB ports work by plugging in other USB devices such as a printer, flashdrive, MP3 player;
try the Vivitar in another PC;
double click on "My Computer". The camera would show as another drive, perhaps an "E";
rollback your USB drivers;
uninstall latest Microsoft updates (USB);
update your USB drivers not with Microsoft but with the motherboard's manufacturer's website;
try the digicam's memory card in a memory card reader.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.
This is known as the "click of death" among hard drives. Your external is merely a normal hard drive in an enclosure, and just as the hard drive in your computer can crash, so an the one in the enclosure, especially since it they tend to be transported a lot more. The sound you hear is the head seeking rapidly back and forth across the platters, and it isn't seeing anything. I read the manual, and it doesn't say anything about a blue light. If the information is vitally important, there are companies that do data recovery that you can find, but it will run you upwards of $300. If it's not that important to you, buy a new hard drive and treat it nicely.
Very good in checking if your computers' USB ports are working. Now that you know that your computer's USB ports are working, try your USB device on his computer and check if it'll work there. If it also doesn't work there, then it'll be your USB device that's not being read.