Power Supply seems to have failed

hi is the, capacitor swollen on the top, but they also don't have to be swollen to be faulty, try some heat on the capacitors with an hairdryer see if the tv comes on, thanks

shaun

Hi there!

The problem is with the power supply some capacitors have gone bad need replacement ,Replace swollen capacitors and the TV will turn on.

good luck buddy .

The power supply could be failing, causing the on-off cycling

There is a fuse on the power supply board. It is labelled F1. It is a small cylinder near the AC connector. The F1 fuse is 5A 250V. How ever, capacitors are more likely to fail on this television.
The Polaroid FLM3701 has a problem with capacitors failing on the power supply board. If enough caps go bad, you will get no power. Not even a power light. Any capacitor that is swollen is bad.

could be the switching board switch they fail over time capacitors you can tell by looking at them in most cases, diodes bit more harder but if there is any black or brown marks round them then theses can be faulty.. but if there is any yellow/brown colour round the capasitoes then they will have gone.

There is a fuse on the power supply board. It is labelled F1. It is a small cylinder near the AC connector. The F1 fuse is 5A 250V. How ever, capacitors are more likely to fail on this television.
The Polaroid FLM3701 has a problem with capacitors failing on the power supply board. If enough caps go bad, you will get no power. Not even a power light.
This P/S board is easy to access on this TV. There is a cover on the back of the TV. It is attached with 8 screws. Remove the cover. This will expose 2 boards. The power supply board is on the right. To remove the P/S board, first unplug the cables. There is an AC power power cord on the right and 4 data cables on the left. The board is held in with 4 screws. Remove the screws and the board will lift out. Any capacitor that is swollen is bad. The top of the capacitor will be curved upward. On the left side of the P/S board, there are 9 big caps labelled E8 thur E17. I would suggest replacing all of them. 6 are 680uF 35V and 3 are 680uF 25V. In the upper central region there are 3 small caps. These go bad, but they do not swell. These are E6, E7 and E22. They are all 22uF 50V. Replace all three. The attached photo shows before and after the caps have been replaced. The original caps were orange. The replacement caps are black.

sounds like it may be a power supply problem in the amp. If it was slowly getting worse, you may suspect a capacitor in the power supply to have failed, or popped. Open the amp, and look for any swollen tops of large capacitors around the big donut shaped coils. If any of their tops are swollen or bulged out, that's your problem.

Loss of video is one of 3 things.
1) Bad or loose video card - But you get normal sounds (you can hear the Windows sound when starting up) and normal beeps. Does not sound like your problem
2) Bad or weak power supply unit (PSU). Sometimes it appears that a power supply unit is working, but in reality it is not getting enough power, usually due to some bad capacitors (caps) inside. If you swap out the power supply you have to put one with the same or greater output watts in it. Output watts can be found on a sticker on the outside of the PSU.
3) Failed or failing motherboard (mobo). This is usually caused by failing capacitors (caps). Caps look like little soda cans and they should be perfectly flat on top and not bulging or swollen or leaking anything. Visually inspect those. A bunch of computer manufacturers and power supply manufacturers got bitten by a company that years ago was making poor quality (but cheap) capacitors. Seems this company stole the recipe for the capacitors but didn't quite get the mixture right and after 2-3 years these things started failing. I have seen several e-machines with this problem.
So in my opinion you have either a weak or bad power supply or a failed or failing mobo. What is happenning is that the computer does not make it through the Power On Self Test (POST) and that is why you hear no beeps and get no video. SO I beleive that you have situation 2 or 3 mentioned above. That is where I would start looking for your problem.

Solution if all fuses checked out OK and +/-40V are present on main PCB DC connector from power supply:
Check for +37V and -37V on small sub-power supply PCB - mounted vertically on the main power supply PCB. (next to ribbon cable connector is a layout with voltages.) If the +/-37V are missing check (replace) C501 (0.1uF) on the small power supply PCB for leakage, but also check (replace) R401 (2R2) and R402 (2R2) on the main power supply PCB. Both resistors are fuse-resistors and will have gone open circuit when C501 has gone leaky.

Ok so here is my update. I spoke with people at Target's Corp. customer services. I had to jump thru some hoops, if you want my opinion, I think there are legal things going on between Target and Venture Electronics, formerly known as Alco, the suppliers of Trutech. I was giving two numbers to try from a woman at Target, who was very nice and helpful, but unwilling to elaborate to much. When both numbers failed she sent a Venture tech an email on my behalf. Two days later I was contacted by a rep who all of my info. The long and short of it is that I am right now two weeks later watching my formerly broken tv. Venture paid for my shipping both ways and fixed the tv. The tech did admit that the capacitors are a problem but in some cases there have been other issues as well. The tech I worked with might get pissed at this but who cares. The tech number is (905) 477-7878 his name is David, and his ext. 5095. He is very helpful but you have to stay on top of him, I had to call every other day for a week to get the shipping tag so I send them my tv. Good luck to all hope everyone is able to have the success I have.