No matter where you set the vane in a short while it changes to a position where the air flow is straight out. This happens continuosly. Now the vane does not respond to the remote control when you try to reposition it. This happens on both heat and cool cycles.
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turbos on this vehicle have a variable vane setting activated by an actuator that is vacuum controlled by the ECM. At low rpms the vanes move to direct more exhaust gas onto the turbine wheel thus producing boost at low engine rpms. You will get boost at high rpms because if the vanes aren't moving then that will be the position they are set at. Check that the vane rod is moving, check that the vacuum hose is not leaking,cracked or loose and check that the actuator is doing the job.
I'll bet your really talking about a 3/8 air ratchet, as 3/4 are used for sockets larger than 1 1/4 inch and are rated for more than 750 Ft= Lbs. of touque. The air rachet can be fixed by unscrewing the ractchet head from the motor barrell, inside the motor barell theres a rotor with air vanes in slots of the barrel. You'll find the vanes are stuck in the barrell as you haven't oiled the gun regularly enought, remove the vanes and clean them by rubbing them with air tool oil and slipping them into the slots they fit into. If they fal out you have them clean enough if their bent they will have to be replaced, clean the other parts by wiping them off with air tool oil till everything appears to be as clean as new screw it back togther and it'll work great.
this code is for a pronblem in the intake manifold runner control system.
KIA use (as do many other manufacturers) the variable intake on their V6 engines. It is a bosch developed idea that has an actuator which turns a vane inside the manifold creating either short runners or long runners for the air to flow into the head. The long runners help torque and HP at High rpms whereas the short runners help at lower rpms. The computer positions the vane by a stepper motor to the required position. The actuator is underneath on one end of the manifold plenum chamber, you may need to clean or replace that item.
there is a plastic vane that moves in response to the air flow created by the flywheel fan ... the faster the motor runs the more air and the more the vane is deflected .. the vane is connected to the throttle thru a spring .. as the vane is deflected it reduces the throttle setting to maintain a set speed (which is adjustable by a screw) ... if that vane becomes stuck by a leaf or twig then you lose that speed control .. also if it becomes disconnected from the throttle the engine will run away .. the manual on your generator will call that a "govener "
I am not sure what type or how old your mower is but most have whats called an "air vane governor". This system uses air flow and a spring to control a vane back and forth. One problem is debris sometimes collects in the system blocking air flow. When this happens the engine will over speed. The other is if the spring breaks or detaches from the governor.
You should avoid running the mower at all until you are sure you have found and fixed the problem. Over running can quickly cause catastrophic damage to the engine. Inspect the governor and make sure it's moving freely and that there is no blockages in regards to the air flow. If you find that the governor is not moving freely you can attempt to control it manually when the engine is started but only after you have positively identified the governor as the problem. If you are unsure where the governor is located please respond back with the make and model of your mower. Hope this helps.
THe blend door seems to be stuck. When you change settings from defrost to floor air or, vent, the blend door opens and closes directing the air to the place you want it to go to. I have had some success spraying a lubricating oil such as WD40 under the dash on the blend door. You need to get under the dash with a flashlight to locate it. It looks like a flap. Spray it with a couple of shots of the WD40. Go easy on the spraying as you may be inhaling the fumes. Keep the doors and windows open to minimize the fumes. Wait about 1/2 hour and try the A/C functions. (defrost, floor, vent air)
The heater in your car depends upon a flow of hot coolant going through the heater core in order to get hot air into the car. If the heater core is partially plugged, it will restrict the flow. If you have a head gasket that is putting exhaust into the cooling system, it will eventually get into the heater core. When this happens there is no coolant in the heater core to make the air warm. If the water pump vanes have corroded away the result will be very poor coolant circulation causing the heater to not blow hot air. If your car is equipped with a heater control valve that is not functioning properly, the coolant flow will be restricted. One or a combination of these factors is likely the culprit in your case. if the car is not overheating, the thermostat is working fine.... replace or flush the heater core multiple times to try and eliminate sediment build-up.