Hi.
Start checking the inlet hose at the back, ensure that the hose is not kinked, and that water is flowing with sufficient pressure.
After checking the inlet , test the inlet valve itself.
To test the inlet valve you can read Ohms on the valve solenoid contacts to ensureit has continuity, and check if the valve is getting energized byreading volts at the valve terminals. If the valve is getting powerduring cycle but it does not open, then the valve is still failing.
Sinceyou have a dual inlet , you can also test the valve by swapping hot andcold inlet contact. In your case I do not think that the problem is thevalve.
Since the problem is only on hot inlet, the cause is most likely a faulty thermistor (
SENSOR-NTC).The thermistor is connected in line with the hot inlet on the circuitfrom CCU. When thermistor is faulty, the inlet does not open.
The sensor is part nr.24 on diagram below. Click on the picture below to enlarge.
The pressure switch (
SWITCH-WL (Water Level/Pressure Switch))is the part that determines when to stop the inlet valve to preventoverfilling. If the pressure switch is defective, then the valve willnot open.
The pressure switch is the most common cause for coldinlet not opening,along with inlet valve/hose problems. In your case itwould be rather unlikely, but still possible, as hot water gets filledafter cold water. A defective pressure switch may detect overfillingbefore time and stop filling before getting to hot fill phase of thecycle.
The switch can be tested jumping its contacts andcycling. Mind all the safety measures, and stop the cycle manually toprevent overfilling while the switch is jumped..
The part is indicated with number 23 on diagram below, click on the picture below to enlarge:
Thedoor switch can also be tested by jumping it, in your case the problemis not the door switch, or the cold inlet will not fill.
If allthe rest is fine, then read Volts to inlet valve to test CCU (timerboard) and wiring. If there is no voltage to control board whilecycling, then the electronic control board is likely faulty. Check ifwiring harness has continuity before replacing the control board.
Thetimer board is always the last part to be tested and eventuallyreplaced. A bad pressure switch, or an open NTC switch can prevent thevalve from getting energized even if the CCU is fine.The CCU getsreplaced when everything else is OK.
Test and eventually replace the thermistor, that is probably the fault.
Testand repair must be done by a trained person. If you DIY, remember thatthere is AC voltage running on the appliance. Call the phone number listed on the user manual if you need to contact a qualified technician.
Regards.
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