Question about Teac AG-D8900 Receiver

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Our sub woofer stopped working

We were told to check the fuses, and they looked blown, so we bought new fuses and as soon as we turned it on, the fuses blew. What is causing these new fuses to blow? Are the fuses the problem or is some other problem causing the fuses to blow? What can we do to fix this problem? Thanks.

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Re: Our sub woofer stopped working

Hello Levelle,

Fuses are designed to be protection devices, that is, to destroy themselves in order to protect an electronic circuit. Now, when brand new replacement fuses blow, it could mean two things: 1.- The replacement fuses are below the specified rating (you can find the rating by reading around the end metal caps of the original fuse), or
2.- The internal circuitry of the unit is damaged and is causing the fuses to blow immediately.

There is not much you can do yourself, unless you are technically inclined and know how to test the unit for internal damage. If you are not technically inclined, your best bet is to have the unit inspected to asses the damages and the cost of repair if you elect to do so.
Hope this helps. Let me know if we can be of further assistance.


Posted on Dec 31, 2007

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OK - well "look" blown may not be a solid, engineering approved, check. You could take the fuse down to a local Radio Shack and have them test it. Good news is that they will probably have a replacement if you need it. OTHERWISE... Keeping the volume WAY down - you can try another speaker on that output. It doesn't really have to be a woofer, just something to verify the circuit is working. That should tell you if the pathway is good which then tells you if its the woofer or the amp/receiver.

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I have a teac AG D8900 Digital Home Theater. My subwoofer seems to be dead. No lights come on the front of Sub Woofer even though it's plugged in. I tried changing outlets. The wire from speaker to...

I have the same-just talked to TEAC last week, if fuses(two 5 amp glass ones inside housing-just remove screws on back after un-plugging 120v power) on the LSR-1008 subwoofer are blown, it may be failed relays. I replaced my fuses, both blew w/in 5 seconds. Called TEAC today, relays are NOT available alone and are solder connected; however, complete new circuit board is plug in, part #APE000515-0001 at $47.69 plus shipping. Verify #s and price with TEAC, but now I must decide if it's important to keep this sub, or if another at around 60$ on Ebay is a better bet. Good luck!

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Hi I own a Technics Hi-Fi system (Model SC-EH780) and would like to attach a subwoofer to it. I cannot find the subwoofer unit that is supposed to go with this system. Can you help?

Any powered sub-woofer will work with it. Check the back of the Technics, make sure there is an RCA output labeled "Sub-woofer" or "Woofer" or "Sub". If so, you can get any brand of powered sub woofer and it will work. A powered sub-woofer is one with an amplifier for the sub built into the box and you will need to plug it into an A/C outlet as well. The only exceptions to what will work with this unit is to make sure you are not buying a sub-woofer that is made to only work with the companion unit it is originally sold with. Many Panasonic and JVC sub woofers are like this. Just look for a sub-woofer that is not part of any system. Velodyne makes some really great sub-woofers that would work nice with yours, but they can be a little expensive, but they are very good.

If your Technics has no RCA output for the sub-woofer, you will need to make sure that whatever powered sub-woofer you buy has a speaker level input for it. Most powered sub-woofers have this feature, so that you may just run the front speaker outputs of the receiver into the subwoofer and then the sub-woofer will have a set of speaker outputs right below the speaker inputs so you can still have your front speakers connected to that and not loose anything from your system.

I hope I have explained this in a manner you will understand easy, if not just post whatever questions you may have right on this thread and I will get back to you as soon as possible.

It would also be appreciated if you could rate this solution if you no longer need any help from me. If you do require more help, please wait to rate this until we are finished. That way I do not get an undeserved bad rating when we have not even finished our communications.
By the way, A "Thanks for trying" and "Helpful" rating are really not good, they always end up lowering my overall score.


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If you had given more information about the problem with your sub woofer I could have given you a better answer, but with the limited information given all I can suggest right now is to check the fuse. That is always a good starting point. If you give me more information I may be able to help you much more, I have repaired many powered sub woofers but not this model. Most are very similar and can be checked with minimal effort. You would need to have a multimeter to check almost everything else with the sub woofer. Let me know if you have a multimeter and are willing to check it further. Anything less than a "FixYa!" rating is really not a good rating, so please do not rate this solution until we have had a chance to communicate more about the problem. That way I will not be given a bad rating when I have not had a chance to actually help you yet since I can not tell you how to fix your problem without more information.


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You will only blow fuses and resistors if there is a short of some kind you can change fuses, resistors and capacitors all you like if you don't find the short they will just keep on blowing. It maybe something as small as a bit of conductive material or fluff or dust on chip board wipe board down make sure it is clean (a clean toothbrush is perfect) and there are no signs of burns on either side of the chipboard befor you change anything. If there are burns or greenish build up clean them with some metho or water on a cloth not to damp though and make sure Burn or corrossion hasn't taken off the protective layer on the board.
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