Sp-500 I noticed the pump was running for 2 seconds and plenty of gurgling after. I then played with the float and it started to run a full cycle with no more gurgling. What causes that?

If your machine is trying to pump out water that is not there, check the float level sensor. That is the detector that checks for water level during filling. If the pipe/mechanism is blocked, in the full position, the sensor will indicate that there is still water to be pumped out ... that is assuming the water has been pumped out otherwise look for a blockage in the outlet pipe.

The fuel shut off solenoid has two separate windings, energize and hold. The symtom of 2-3 seconds run is likely the fuel solenoid energizing during start cycle but a failure with solenoid hold when the ignition switch is released to the RUN position. Suggest you verify the hold circuit and solenoid hold winding are working.

it sounds like it is still you needle and seats are worn or your float has a hole in it just check the float and see if it has fuel inside it ,but i say a new set of needle and seats and bowl gaskets cheers

Buy new pump/ the switch is bad

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hello Gerard,

This is an overfill 'fault' generally caused by one of the following:

1. Faulty or incorrectly installed flow-meter
2. An airlock in the fill chamber
3. Faulty float switch (less likely)

There are some simple checks you can do to determine the cause of the fault and hopefully solve the problem without replacing any parts - no tools required at this point.

First, open the door, pull out the lower basket and locate the float. This is the 'mushroom' in the base of the washing compartment:


With the washer empty of water, make sure the float is fully lowered. There should be a gap of 2-3mm between the float and the base of the washer and you should be able to lift it about half an inch / 12-15mm. When you lift it, it should fall when you let go. If it's raised when the washer is empty, it should not rise again on its own when pushed down.

If the float seems to be working correctly, the controller is receiving erroneous signals from the flow-meter that the washer is full or overfilled. This causes the washer to pump out - then resume the fill cycle because the water level is too low to start the wash. If this is caused by an air-lock, there is a simple trick to clear the air-lock and, therefore, the fault.

1. Start a wash cycle and keep you finger ready on the power switch on the control panel.
2. As soon as you hear the pump start during the fill cycle, interrupt the cycle by pressing the power switch to the off position
3. Wait for about 10 seconds, then switch the power on again.

The machine should resume filling rather than pumping out. Keep your finger ready on the power switch and repeat steps 2 and 3 until the washer is filled and the washing cycle starts. If you can get the washer to run a cycle using this trick, you may not need to do anything else, but you may need to repeat the procedure described above at the start of the next few cycles.

If the washer does not resume filling and continues pumping when you switch the power on again or you have to repeat the procedure above at the start of every wash cycle before it will run, you will need to check the flow-meter and, most likely, replace it.

I'm happy to provide step-by-step assistance with checking and replacing the flow-meter if required, but please check the float and try the simple trick above first, then let me know if you need further assistance.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
BElectric

The first thing a Bosch dishwasher does when you start a program is run the waste pump. This ensures that any residual water and waste is removed from the machine before the wash program begins.

The hum you can hear is most likely the pump motor trying to drive the impeller. This can become clogged with waste and seize up, preventing the wash cycle from starting. There is an easy way to check this:

(It's easier to do this with the washer empty)

1: Select a wash program

2. Press "Start" and wait for the humming noise

3. Open the door and pull the bottom basket forward or lift it out completely

4. Find and lift the float (the plastic dome/mushroom in the bottom of the washer) all the way up

5. Keep the float lifted and the dishwasher should pump out. Stop if/when you hear a gurgling noise as this means it's empty and pumping mostly air.

6. If the pump doesn't start, lift the float again for about 1-2 seconds then let it drop again for 1-2 seconds. Repeat this 10-20 times and see if the pump starts. The repeated stop/start signals to the pump motor can sometimes free a seized impeller.

If the pump does start, keep lifting and dropping the float switch (1-2 seconds each time) to see if the pump starts every time. If it does, you should be OK to use the washer, but further action is needed to stop the problem returning.

When you've done all this, post the results here and I'll advise you what to do to fix the problem or prevent it from returning.

It's most likely a seized pump impeller/motor bearings or a burnt-out pump motor. There are some simple tests for the pump that anyone can do:

A. If your washer is full of water:

1. Select a wash program and press start. You should hear a low humming noise. If you can't hear anything, you probably need a new pump, but try the next step before you start buying parts or call an engineer.

2. Open the door and pull the lower basket forward or lift it out completely. Find and lift the float (the plastic dome/mushroom in the bottom of the washer) all the way up. Keep the float lifted and the dishwasher should pump out. Stop if/when you hear a gurgling noise as this means it's empty and pumping mostly air.


B. If your washer is empty of water:

1. Select a wash program and press start

2. Open the door and pull the lower basket forward or lift it out completely. Find and lift the float (the plastic dome/mushroom in the bottom of the washer) all the way up. Keep the float lifted and the dishwasher should pump out. Stop if/when you hear a gurgling noise as this means it's empty and pumping mostly air.

C: If you can hear the low humming noise but the pump doesn't start when you lift the float:
1. lift the float again for about 1-2 seconds then let it drop again for 1-2 seconds. Repeat this 10-20 times and see if the pump starts. The repeated stop/start signals to the pump motor can sometimes free a seized impeller.

If the pump does start, keep lifting and dropping the float switch (1-2 seconds each time) to see if the pump starts every time. If it does, you should be OK to use the washer, but further action is needed to stop the problem returning.

When you've done all this, post the results here and I'll advise you what to do to fix the problem or prevent it from returning.

I have a 6 month old Balboa 500Z. I have noticed that the filter system tis running all the time 24/7. I have reset the filter cycle to run for 2 hours { F2 }. It still is running all the time. It dose not seem to make a difference what I set the cycle for it just keeps running

Not after three years. Some pumps are warranted that long but floats are pretty easily damaged, jammed, or put into compromising positions so that they fail to activate the pump when they should. Rigid, on the other hand are very strong in their warranties. Some tools have a lifetime warranty. It is worth a check, but even if they replace the pump don't expect compensation for the dammages you suffered from the flooding.

Paul

If you are still trying to sort out this issue try the following.

From what you say then it is most likely the aqua sensor on the side of the dishwasher. The gurgling sounds that you hear are likely the drain pump running and the un-drainable water sloshing in the sump.

Verify that there is actually water going to the dishwasher( Basic step but often overlooked)

Next the inlet valve will have to be checked. This is the part where the water line from the house connects to the dishwasher, under the toe/kick panel. Remove power from the dishwasher. Disconnect the dishwasher electrical connections (2 wires) to the inlet valve and connect it (carefully to 110 V power) using a jumper wire. With 110V power the valve should open and water will flow into the dishwasher, if not then the fault is in the inlet valve.

If this checks fine then the fault is likely in the aqua sensor...

On the outer left side (viewed from front) there is a panel, Behind this panel there is a small clear(of light blue) plastic mechanism with hoses and wires attached( There is usually a yellow disk at the top about 6cm in diameter) this is a float and sensor assembly there is tells the control the water level and works as an emergency drain if there is an issue. There will be a red stick protruding downward to the base and a Styrofoam float on which the stick rests. This is a pan overflow sensor if the stick is too high the unit will go into drain and cut off the fill valve power. The yellow disk is a diaphragm which senses water height. This unit can become stuck with wear and hard water.