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first of all there will be 2 fuses for you cd player 1 in your fuse box and the other 1 in the back of the cd player have you checked them both ? as for your horn if the fuse is okay it could be a bad earth wire or the horn as gone itself best thing to do is strip the horn off and try it via a power pack put a pop rivet on the live and earth handles on power pack and touch the terminals on the horn if it does not blow you know the horn is buggered if it does blow you know it is a bad earth some where along the line. hope info is usefull
Black - Earth to to the chassis.
Yellow - Live that should be connected directly to the car battery and not the igniton.
Red - To an accessory terminal in the fuse block.
Blue / White stripe - To remote antenna (if fitted)
White / Black stripe - Front left speaker (negative terminal)
White - Front left speaker (positive terminal)
Grey / Black stripe - Front right speaker (negative terminal)
Grey - Front right speaker (positive terminal)
Green / Black stripe - Rear left speaker (negative terminal)
Green - Rear left speaker (positive terminal)
Purple / Black stripe - Rear right speaker (negative terminal)
Purple = Rear right speaker (positive terminal)
That covers all off the cables that you should have with the car stereo.
aux should be 2 point cuming off wive the wires or on the back ov the cd player and red and yellow needs 2 be touching for you live and you earth is the thickest black wire if that dont work then try the fuses
you need a volt meter and 9v battery.
earth black contact from meter & then
with ign off probe wire to find a live , thats the memory feed goes to yellow on radio
with ign on probe wires that the constent live goes to red on radio
when lights on probe wires thats the illumination feed (if fitted to car, but not used on many new radios
then get 9v battery and with remaining wires pair and connect to battery, when speaker buzz's mark pair as they are ( ie front right rear left etc ) the speaker wires from the new radio are paired by colour ( one with black stripe with is the negative of the pair)
there should be a ground/earth which if you cant find just hook one to the body/chassis
Hi
Probably put your family at risk of electricution . By connecting the live cables to earth you have effectivly made all the metal light fittings live. It is amazing that the fuse has not blown, This in itself is dangerous and you should have an electrician look at the wiring.
The correct wiring should be as follows.
Identify cables there should be 2 twin and earth (red black & copper earth) cables and 1 twin red and copper earth. (or 2 single red wires)
connect all copper earth wires suitably sheathed in green/yellow sleeving to earth lug.
Connect 2 black cables to neutral block.
Connect either single red (0r 1 of 2 reds) into live block.
connect remaining 3 reds into loop block.
HTH
You may need to get a wire connector to install on the ground (earth) wire, so it can be connected to the terminal connection point on the new oven.
If one wasn't provided with the oven, some do this as a service, just look at the ground terminal or in the bag with the instructions, etc. for one. If not, you should be able to purchase one, you'll just need to get one that fits the wire, so knowing the gauge of the wire (either Awg or Kcmil size) will make this easier to get the right connector size.
I recommend that a ring terminal be used, so in the event that the fastening screw might loosen, the ring terminal will not fall off the contact point, whereas a fork terminal could and can come off much more easily.
Not having more detailed info about the brand and where you're located, makes further possible solutions difficult to provide, since Fixya doesn't require requestors to provide any info on what country they're in, etc.
Nonetheless, I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
You can get wiring diagrams on line, do a search using the players full name. Is your morris positive on negative earth? you will have to swap it if it is positive as the player is negative earth only (usually dynamo is +ve and alternators are-ve ) I have changed lots over when dynamos were common, turn the battery round and pull the 2 wires off the dynamo take a wire from the +ve battery terminal and "wipe it across the 2 terminals on the dynamo, this will make it -ve earth too, re connect the dynamo and off you go
Comm should be the common terminal/wire
Satisfied means that the unit is no longer calling for heat because the thermostats setting has been "satisfied" and has shut the unit off until the room is cooler and it is then "damanding" operation. This should bring the unit on. (when the thermostat is in "demand")
First thing to do is isolate all the cables from each other and put insulating tape over the bare cables.
Now using a multimeter set on 12 volts or above test each cable in turn with the ignition on.
You will find one live cable that is only live when you have your ignition in the number one position.
This is the live feed to your radio, fit a small amp-age fuse (5 or 7.5 amp) depending on the rating for your new radio.
You will have speaker wires, these you can identify by tracing them from each speaker.
By now you will have identified your live cable and your speaker cables.
You may have a secondary live for a electric aerial and an earth cable. You must earth your radio even if you have to make an earth on the inner bodywork.
If you do not need the secondary live then make if safe.
If you need the secondary live fit an appropriate fuse.
Earth the new radio.
I use this system on used cars before fitting radios/cd players. It works but be careful.
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