The car lose the batery charge in one night and if I retired the B2 fuse the batery is ok I need the fuse diagram to try resolve the problem.

Probably not. I would charge the battery over night on a low amp charge. 2amp

You cane get it from the public library for free.

did the car run good for 2 weeks? with the car running your voltage reg. should put approx. 14.6 volts if the system is charging. I would check all the fuses with a test light. Call your local dealership and they will tell what fuse is the charging system fuse.Make certain all the fuses are good first, then check both of your battery cables make sure their not corroded. if you still cant figure it out it could be a bad fusable link, also trace the wires off the alt. check for bad spots..good luck

In the fuse panel under the hood of the vehicle on the passenger side there is a "main" 80 amp fuse that pretty much is your main power source from the batery. Below is a diagram of the fuse layout. I marked the fuse you need to check (number 30). Be glad it was there or you could have had some major electrical problems. I hope this helps you and good luck.

go to fuse box, pull fuses one at a time at night or a dark garage, with the aid of a flashlight as u pull each fuse, a small spark will be seen providing the fuse is sound, this will tell you which circuit is faulty.

Try a local repair shop with a data base
ALLDATA etc
Have them show you the wiring diagram
The circuit the fuse is on won't get you to
the module, not timing out
You should be around 40ma or less when they
go to sleep

sounds like an over draw on system
computers need min 10.5 volts to stay alive (working) other wise they shut down
i would start by charging batteries fully and disconect from vehicle for 24 hr
then re check before hooking up if they staied charged batteries are good
then hook up bateries negatives then hook up a voltage meter to performed a parasedict
test other word in series to positive cable on wire and other to battery positive if draw is high
on meter start removing fuses on at a time until voltage on meter drops
you have know located source of draw that is killing batteries know diag that problem
ex . under hood light staies on........glove box stays on.......aftermarket stuff inproperly conected
good luck

ok sounds like you have a dead battery
1) if turns but slowly:

posible causes:
1.1) old dead batery/
or underchaged battery >check altenator in this case

did you leave your headlights turnt on and drained the battery of its charge?if so get a jump start and then run the car for 30-45 mins to rechagre the battery

if you have at your disposal anothere batery that you know has a good charge
try starting your car with that batery(not using jumper cables) hook it up!
if the slugish turn over is still there

1.2) check your wire conections for corision this means completly disconecting 1 lead at a time (only on one end of that lead)and cleaning them with a wire brush or some sand paper.
(on the battery and the starter also the ground strap conection to the frame.)

2) WONT TURN OVER AT ALL:
posible causes:
2.0) dead battery >try charging it>get a jump start
2.1) blown turnkey igntion fuse
2.2) blow fuse for main har nes wires
2.3) bad starter
2.4) corosion on wire conection (most often the batery terminals)
2.5) starter replaced and hooked up incorectly.

2.6) alram system preventing the turnkey igntion system from getting power

This one simple.Lean codes generally indicate air getting into combustion chamber,that the mass air flow sensor never senses.Check all vacum lines,look for cracked or unplugged vacum lines.If it is as I suspect ,most commonly occurs on vehicles over 100k miles .The upper intake Oring seals dry out and lose the elasticity.Replace these,and it shjould resolve lean codes.Misfires are most likely tuneup time.Your evap problem points right to a contol problem.Meaning a switch has gone bad somewhere in the circut.Get a wiring diagram and look for all the EVAP electrical.There will be a switch in there.Check to see it is a constant power on solenoid.If so ,find out which is hot in,ground other wire,feel or listen for switch to click.

Lots of stuff. An after market alarm,malfuntioning radio,bad battery,bad door pin switch for the interior lights. Best thing to do is charge the battery if it's in fact good, thenunhook the negative battery cable & connect a test light from the disconnected cable to the negative battery post. If it's a nice bright light it's got a draw. If it's really dim,that's the memory for the computer,anti-theft,radio memory. I mean dim,like barely lit! That's ok. If you don't have a test light disconnect the negative cable & touch it to the negative battery post a few times & if there's a big spark,there's a draw. If there's a draw & there's nothing on in the car,like an interior light,etc, than start with the inside the car fuse box & while holding the open door pin switch test each fuse for power. If anything has power that shouldn't with the key off that's where to start. Do the same for the under the hood box as well but disconnect the hood light. If you are using the Viper alarm system,junk the system. That alarm causes your problem & in alot of cases a fire.