If this is a C3 there is only one mag, F3 is the inline heater circuit fuse,
so it is a problem with the heater circuit, the older type heaters are an open coil type the ceramic mouting points can crack and break causing a short as the heater starts to heat, they are also susceptible to damage from oven cleaners. 208 volt units usually draw approximately 23amps when operating properly
So you seem to know alot or enough to get by on this oven and you have the testing equipment clearly since you gave me the amp reading.
17.25 is just a little to high. Which is prolly why your having a hard time figuring out the problem. The next thing i would check would be the HV transformers. One of them is prolly pulling just to much. They should be somewhat even.
Discharge the HV Cap before continuing
Unplug the wire coming from the first cap to the transformer at the transformer and then energize the mag current record your amps
then plug that one back in and repeat for the other cap and HV transformer
hopefully you will notice a big difference in the amps between the two transformers
if that didn't work you will need to measure the windings of each transformer of which turbochef will give you this info
Also if the oven is working in test mode but not in a true cycle. Run it in a true cycle. Clamp your meter on then power up the oven and run the cycle that blows the fuse. See if the amps spike before the fuse blows
These fuses are expensive, too expensive to be blowing testing the oven. Bring the fuse to home depot and buy a bunch from them. There not an exact match, they will be a little short but will work for testing purposes. Once fixed buy the proper fuse from turbochef there around 10 bucks each
Good luck and don’t get down that you replaced those parts and its still not working. Most repair company’s replace all those parts anyway. Your typical bill to fix this problem is around 1800.
Discharging can be done by unplugging the oven and then short across the red wire on each capacitor to the chassis with an insulated screwdriver.
1. Remove the top and right side covers.
2. Enter the test mode. (From the OVEN OFF mode, simultaneously press
BACK and ENTER keys, enter the code 9-4-2-8 and press ENTER).
3. Place amp meter on the brown "ct" wire for amp reading. Wire is coming from the primary side of the
HV transformers and looping through the black plastic current transformer on the main control board and back to the HV transformers.
4. Press and hold the MGTRON soft key on the keypad to energize the magnetrons.
5. Observe the amperage on the meter. Typical readings are:
NORTH AMERICA: 12-14 amps at 240VAC/13-16 amps at 208VAC.
If you are getting 12-16 amps then change the I/O board.
If you are only getting 7 or 8 amps then only one side of the of the HV system is not working correctly. You will need to figure out which side is bad by un-plugging the power wires going to one of the HV transformers. Then test again and if you get no amps you have found the bad side. Replace the HV transformer, cap and diode.
If you are not getting any amps then check the F3 fuse it will most likely be blown. Replace and start over
Good Luck If you have anymore questions just ask.
F3: Magnetron Current Low
Fault is displayed when the current transformer
(CT) on the I/O control board does not detect
enough current. The fault is monitored when the
microwave is on during a cook cycle or self-test.
The fault is cleared from the display at the onset of
a cook cycle if the CT detects current or when the
magnetron is successfully energized in Test Mode
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