At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
My 1996 honda has broke down on me and ive been fixing 1 thing after another for the past week and half.please help me figure out whats going on. ive taken care of my oil change, pcv valve, radiator cap, and antifreeze where its needed. what can be the problem expert?
when my car first broke down it overheated so we let it cool off and realized that the car didnt have any oil and a little bit of antifreeze. so i got my oil change, antifreeze was put in, new pcv valve , new hose was put in (which caused the car to stop because it burst open). then the car started overheating again and found out i needed a new thermostat and idk the real name to this but a gastic. then my car was working again then it started making a sound and it sounded like it was going to break down again. so then we noticed that the radiator cap was messed up and there was so liquid on the engine. so we got a new cap and it still wont start,so what could be the problemwhen my car first broke down it overheated so we let it cool off and realized that the car didnt have any oil and a little bit of antifreeze. so i got my oil change, antifreeze was put in, new pcv valve , new hose was put in (which caused the car to stop because it burst open). then the car started overheating again and found out i needed a new thermostat and idk the real name to this but a gastic. then my car was working again then it started making a sound and it sounded like it was going to break down again. so then we noticed that the radiator cap was messed up and there was so liquid on the engine. so we got a new cap and it still wont start,so what could be the problem
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
you rebuilt an engine not your transmission which is your problem its not an engine issue --check and inspect fluid if lkow top off if burnt have filter and fluid change -----your problem can be anything from tcc failing--torque converter --shift solenoid --fluid --etc if filter/fluid dont solve need to have tranny shop look at it
I have a Honda City 2004 EXI model car. When It start, the engine sign always flashed on the temperature meter regularly. Please advise what is the problem it has.
Possible fan clutch..Usually if its a fan clutch it will run hot sitting still but cool off once going down the road..If it takes a while to run hott then i would suspect a clogged radiator..When you drain it did it look like all the antifreeze came out..Ive seen half the radiater clogged up where half of it drained but the clogged section stay in the radiator
this is your ignition switch failing. Typical symtoms when stalling, speedometer and tach dropping to zero(while in motion), some warning lights not lit, power failure. The internal contacts are shorting due to poor design and engineering. This causes vital engine/vehicle electrical failure, causing the stalling(happens more often in hotter/humid weather). There is a recall in place for this in 2002, over 1.5Million vehicles from 97-02 Honda/Acura models affected. Owners were notified in 2002!! If your vehicle is part of this recall, honda may repair for free. Call your local honda dealer with your VIN# at hand, they will give info on this recall and may repair for free. Otherwise the switch cost about $45-$95. hopefully this helps...please rate...thanks
sounds like the fuel filter.. if you have those kind of skills, they're usually cheap to buy and worth a shot to change. depending on the location the labor will take you 1 - 5 hrs...
You may not have a leak, the problem may be with the sensor on the fuel tank that tells the Power Train Control module if the system holds vacuum, like all sensors these will and do fail on occassion, if you ran a leak down test and the system held vacuum within the manufacturers specs then the sensor may very well be the problem that is turning on the check engine light.
this is a very common problem or so i have heard mine has been doing it for two years and its still fine. what i do is buy some gunk oil treatment or i hear seafoam works good too. put it in 5 min before oil change and it will clean the build up in oil passages and free the sticky valves then use mobil one full synthetic oil its much better plain oil wont help it ive tried. and the noise will go away untill its time to do it again. i usually get 4-5 months noise free then it will start again.
when my car first broke down it overheated so we let it cool off and realized that the car didnt have any oil and a little bit of antifreeze. so i got my oil change, antifreeze was put in, new pcv valve , new hose was put in (which caused the car to stop because it burst open). then the car started overheating again and found out i needed a new thermostat and idk the real name to this but a gastic. then my car was working again then it started making a sound and it sounded like it was going to break down again. so then we noticed that the radiator cap was messed up and there was so liquid on the engine. so we got a new cap and it still wont start,so what could be the problem
cant really help you with that bit of info please elaborate.
×