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You can hook it up a couple of ways.
Depending on how many subs you have and what ohms they are running at here is the chart you need. If your going to run one sub off it the last option is the way to go. Your going to need to find out the power of your subs or else the power could be off and you could blow the sub. If the rms power is higher than 130watts per coil you will be fine. If so there are four channels on the amp and two should show a line going to each other that says bridge. Hook up the positives and the negative of the subs as shown on the amp that will get your max power. If your sub is running at 4 ohm. Let me know, if not thats how you would do it.
Also for the power and remote wires. Hook up a power wire (16 gauge would be plenty fine) from the battery to the + terminal of the amp. Then take an equal or bigger sized wire from the - side of the amp and secure it to any medal part of the body of the car. If there is paint on it get if off. (not on the outside of your car or where any water would be.) Then run a remote wire from your stereo (most the times it is blue and white) to the remote terminal of the amp. This tell the amp when to turn on and off. Your amp will not turn on with out all of these wires. Good luck to you and let me know how it works out.
Is the speaker a dual voice coil speaker? If so you can wire it up a couple of diferent ways, go to rockfordfosgate.com they have a woolfer wiring wizard that can show you the different ways to wire for 8 ohm.....4 ohm.....2 ohm....and 1 ohm...I would figure out how to get the most power out of the amp in mono mode, take that ohm load from there and see if you can wire your speaker to match it.
If you like a lot of bass, you definitely need to consider another amp. The SP2X-300 is only rated at 170 watts RMS into 4 ohms mono. That would barely be enough to power one small sub. You do not specify what brand and model your subs are, their impedance, or their power handling capacity. But for any subs, your best power solution is to add together the individual RMS power handling capacity and select a monoblock amp that provides close to the maximum at the impedance they will be wired to present. For example, if your subs are 4 ohms and have a maximum RMS of 250 watts, you would want an amp that outputs abour 500 watts into 2 ohms (2 4 ohm subs wired in parallel = 2 ohm load). An ideal amp in that example would be the Alpine MRP-M500 which outputs 500 watts RMS into 2 ohms.
Yes, that would be the best connection for both the subs and the amp.
I'd wire the sub voice coils in series since the amp will not be stable at 2 ohms when the channels are bridged. The power will be somewhere between 100-200 watts RMS to each sub. While it's not pavement pounding, it should provide pretty good bass, especially if you tweak the crossover and boost settings for best bass response.
A pair of JH4512-04's can be wired to 2 ohms if the subs themselves are paralleled. There's only one voice coil and it's 4 ohm. If wired in series, the final impedance to the amp would be 8 ohms. They cannot be wired to 1 ohm.
In bridged mode, your 4-channel amp is only stable down to 4 ohms. You can bridge 2 of the channels to provide a relatively low 200 watts RMS X 2. The best power solution for your subs would be to bridge channels 1 and 2 and wire one sub to it. Likewise, bridge channels 3 and 4 and connect the other sub. If you connect both subs in parallel, the impedance will be too low causing the amp to overheat and possible fail.
As for the settings: Low pass filter on, crossover somewhere between 80-100, input levels to match your receiver, and bass boost to your personal preference.
My information shows the XM-1652Z as being a 2-channel amp. It will not be stable below 4-ohms in bridged mode. For best power, your subs will need to be 2-ohms with all 3 wired in series. This will present a 6-ohm load to the amp. After wiring the subs in series, connect the positive speaker wire to one channel (+) and the negative speaker wire to the other channel (-). For the 1652Z no other wiring is necessary. For subs you will also want to set the LPF (80Hz) switch to the "ON" position (to the right).
Keep in mind that the rated output is only 400 watts RMS at 4-ohms in bridged mode. That's kinda wimpy for 3 subs. You would probably obtain better results from two 2-ohm subs, each connected to a separate channel. That way each sub would be getting 200 watts RMS, still low but there's lots of good subs that will sound pretty loud with 150-200 watts
Usually an 800 watt peak sub would be a 400 watt rms. Hmmmm. Anyway, just bridge the amp (1x 380) nd keep the gain up enough to stay clean. Watch the sub and turn up gain until it starts to distort, then back it down a hair. Do this with the CD players volume up 2/3 to 3/4 volume with the BASS and treble at zero (bass better at minus 4 or so if you are a bass head! Hope thishelps.
ok this gets confusing sometimes. Ok first look to see what ohm your subs are. If you have a dual 4 ohm sub When you run that on sub + to + and - to - then that will make that sub 2 ohm. its different on ohm if the sub is say a 8 ohm then putting the wires that way will bring that sub to 4 ohm. Now lets say you have 2 subs that are dual 4 ohm and wire both of them + to + and - to - and go bridge the amp which would be both wires from sub both + together and both - wired bridge on the amp will make it a 1 ohm to the amp. Please post what ohm your subs are and i can tell you alittle more about it
The amp's not actually a very good match for the sub, since the sub can be wired for 2 ohms or 8 ohms, and the amplifier is most efficient at 4 ohms in bridged mode. My advice would be to wire the amp in bridged mode, and wire the sub for an 8 ohm load. To do this, the amp's (+) wire should go to the (+) terminal on one of the sub's voice coils. Then run a wire from the (-) terminal on the OTHER voice coil to the (-) terminal on the amp. The remaining (+) and (-) terminals (on opposite voice coils) should be connected to each other with a wire.
Your original wiring setup had the amplifier connected to only one voice coil, while the other voice coil was shorted.