Engine starts easily and then stalls, is hard to restart

Is the check engine light on ?

push the Gas paddle too when you let the clutch paddle to pull back . Simply to say use clutch and gas alternately and opposite to each but with slow moments . if it stalls , simply when you push the key to ignition the starter motor moves to torque the engine , YOU MUST PUSH THE GAS TOO TO START THE ENGINE WHILE IT TRIES TO START .

can i buy a comma., says Vanna White>?
one rule of dealers, (avoid them use independent ASE shops)
or go broke. ($25 spark plugs there... i warned yah)
rule 2,
never take a car to any dealer unless you can DEMONSTRATE the failure. most shops can NOT fix cars that work,
they will try, and charge you CASH for trying, and no blush.

my impression is, the cars issues are INTERMITTENT.
if you dont know cars and electrics, then it may be impossible for you.
but some nicer independant shops might drive it for a day for you
to get it to fail. that WORKS, see WHY?

your engine stalls. that is the key word, random STALLS.
now lets work that IDEA.
there are 3 paths (one of them works out to 50 causes)
here they are..
1 bad DC power, 2 bad engine , or 3 vbad ISC controls.
all my answers ASSUME the car is 100% tunedup using the 60k miles column ! or up to 100k on some. cars. did you?
when it stalls can YOUR right foot (fast moving) save the stall.
??????????????????
does the stalled engine easily restart?????????????????????

The engine brain, PCM/ECU does all it can to stop stalls.
it does, if it stalls, its a very serious failure !
Now the full list ,( expanded)
1: lost of 12vdc electrical power to the EFI system. (voltmeter 101)
use a voltmeter to catch it. seen even at the cig lighter port.!!!!
2: lost spark? wont restart? (do the classic spark test)
3: lost fueling ? more tests (no start, try test fuel)
3A; flooding,? spark tips soaking wet. use WIDE open throttle to start engine and cut fuel , cranking, this help , try starting with 10% throttle ti see if ISC is stuck closed.
4: bad engine, the 50 ways and engine can fail. lost compression , on any or all cylinders , will do that. hot or cold or both .???????
one way to solve problems is by elimination.
say some head valves stick, only hot and only randomly. (nasty issues)

you find that (not saying it is, i never guess)
you prove that this way, examples
good 12vdc, power, checked.
good spark, checked. on all cylinders, not just 1.
injectors test pass, no leak down test failures and the injector balance test passes. (the FSM covers these 6 tests for fuel pressure)
conclusion"
so must be engine bad, it stalls, and runs bad , restarted or not at all.
so you find compression on 2 cylinders are low , 25psi, hot.
all else was tested good so i attack the engine'.
on old engines, i do that first.

so do tell what engine does and does not fully,
your post leaves out most facts.
stalls, and can you save the stall.
and does it restart.
and do you have 12VDC power at stall.

not sure what that means.
lets start over.
your saying car runs great, cold then hot.
then hard to restart a hot engine, right?
the light thing i dont understand
first off, when you stall and engine or just key ON.
the lamps all self test (read the operators guide there)
this is only a lamp test.
odd, the most important is skipped the CEL, check engine light.
is the engine stalling?
hot restarts, fails are: many.

1. injector leaking at shut down.
2. ECT reads to cold when hot. can be below caused
3. Engine thermostat stuck open and restarts are over rich and floods. that hot engine must be at 180F or more,
4. never did a 60,000 mile tuneup this decade?
5. Fuel pressure too high.

i do tune ups first.
then check coolant temperatures, hot. 180F min, and holding or i kick the thermostat to the curb (new stat time)
if it sill dont want to hot start
out comes the scan tool
i scan it, got DTC errors.
is ECT reading 180F ? or above?

that is start on diagnosis.

You don't say what size engine you have, so diagnostic analysis is a bit difficult. Please supply engine size and answer these questions.

1. After it stalls, do you sometimes smell fuel?
2. Does it restart easily after a stall, or do you have to hold the gas pedal to the floor to restart it?
3. Can you keep it running by working the gas pedal?
4. Has you fuel consumption increased since this began?

I ask these questions because on most engines there is a coolant temperature sensor that the ECM used to control the amount of fuel to the injectors based upon the engine coolant temperature. When the engine is cold it supplied more fuel than when warm. If the sensor malfunctions it tells the ECM that the coolant is -40F
and that causes massive fuel to be supplied. This may not affect a cold start once the engine needs the fuel, but it will flood and stall out the motor when warm. If you can keep the engine running by pressing the gas pedal, you are allowing the motor to rev up and use the extra fuel, but you will find you gas mileage reduces by as much as half.

air leak carb some were it is sucking air runing lean

sounds like a fuel filter(cheap and easy) or a partial melted catalyic converter(expensive)

Possile crank sensor

Check engine codes.
If it comes up as a Crankshaft sensor... Replace it.
These are the exact symptoms