VCS442 recorder is rather new, not used much but now trying to set it up for use. Plugged in, fuse tests good and power gets past fuse, on-off button seems to be good. Any suggestions on what I can do?
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Re: No power to unit
Hi when you switch it on does anything light up like the display or standby light if not then it is going to be the internal fuse needs replacing these are cheap to buy it is located where the powe lead goes into the unit and it is a glass fuse take it to shop to make sure you get correct fuse let me know how you get on. If the video lights up and you get standby light or any light check that the lock function on the controll isnt activated as this will cause the controll to fail let me know how you get on ok
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check that the earth wire is making good contact , when ignition off the relay should have power to one prong , does it ? the brighter light on one prong than the other does point to a earth problem though, i presume you have checked the fuse board , as you know some fuses feed thing's not mentioned , worth a check , keep me posted if you wish
The machine is made to work with 120 volts and you have plugged this on a 220 volt mains circuit thereby blowing up the fuse, or the power circuit, possible heater and the main controller unit board.
A step down transformer was needed to work this unit safely . Now unless the unit is opened the damage cannot be confirmed but if you are lucky the fuse would ahve blown and saved the rest. if so test it with a new fuse using a 220 to 120 volt convertor.( transformer with good rating)
It is possible the DVD Recorder took a power surge if it was left plugged in if not, then items that are left for a long time without use sometimes draws more power on start up than normal blowing the fuse.
A VCR is an analog device from input to tape. You cannot record "digital channels" to such a device.
If you have cable or satellite box, it is often possible to record from the RCA outputs of the box. Copyrighted material will still be blocked by circuitry within your VCR.
Could be you have been double-crossed by the used drive. Installation is pretty easy as the data and power cables are both keyed (check the pins on the drives data cable connector to make sure they are not bent). Only other thing I can suggest on the replacement drive is to make sure it set to "MASTER".
I suppose you could try another drive just to confirm that the issue is in the replacement. WalMart sells an internal 22x LITEON DVD Writer for $39, Bar Code 44149 00406 (others may not be IDE) that you can test or permanently repair with.
To test, unplug your ilo and simply:
1.Setthe new 22x drive to MASTER (comes set as slave out of box, see theirdocumentation or the drives cover switch legend markings).
Note: If you want to test using a pre-recorded commercial DVD you will need to do step 2 and first install it in a PC. You can, however, test a blank DVD+R at this point by just connecting the cables.
2. If you wish to play commercial DVD's in your ilo, you must first install this DVD writer in a PCand play part of a studio recorded commercial DVD. This will set the units Region Code.If you don't do this, the drive will not play commercial DVD's (it willnot start or it will lock after copyright screens). If you don't wishto play commercial DVD's in your player, you don't have to do thisstep... it will play DVD's it creates just fine without it.
3. Take off the top of the ilo and move the flat data cable and the power connector to the new 22x drive.
4.Re-test all your issues. If your problems go away then you need the newdrive. If not, the only other user action I can think of short ofmaking sure all the cables are tight is to reload the firmware(http://www.ilohelp.com./download2.htm) but that assumes you can get past "hello" which sounds like you may not be able to do.
The new 22x drive can be installed in the ilo and, with some work,look just like the original from the outside. Some other posts also sayyou can open a hole in the top or back cover for the cables to exit andjust leave the new drive on top of the ilo. Not crazy about that optionbut up to you.
If unit is still under warranty return it. If unit is still sold at the orginal place of purchase buy another and return the first one stating it wont work and get a refund
1) power source is good? (receptical on the wall or power unit. Locate DVD rec. to another receptical and check Rec. again)
2) power cord going to unit is good, no cuts or melted spots
3) power setting on unit is correct (small red slide type buttong for different country voltage settings)
4) internal fuse, change it even if it doesn't look bad.
5) Weigh the cost of a new one to the repair cost of the old one. If you buy a new one get a good brand RCA is still one of best and longest lasting.
1. Make sure the AC outlet is good. 2. Make sure there is no damage to the AC line cord.
3. Look to see if there is a fuse at the rear of the unit. It's usually located inside a black circular housing with a screw off cap that says "fuse".
If not, unplug the unit and remove the outside cover. Look for a blown fuse on the motherboard or power supply. Replace it with the EXACT value of the original fuse. You can purchase a new fuse at Radio Shack or hardware store or auto parts store. Try powering up the unit again and see if it works now or whether the fuse blows again. If it blows again, the power supply may have been damaged.
Please let me know if I can be of further assistance to you.
Just something simple to try...check your software setting to see if it is set for ADF or Flatbed feeding. You said the light bar moves when power is interupted or the adf opened. But you never said if it is scanning in Flatbed mode. If the Flatbed scans, then check the software setting. Most of the flatbed/adf hybrid scanners start up defaulted to flatbed, so when you try to scan, the adf won't pull anything thru until you change to ADF mode.