If the unit doesn't power on at all, no fan spinning and no power light, then it's either your power supply, and/or motherboard. Your hard drive could be damaged as well. You can find power supplies by googling tivo power supplies.
You may be better off sending out the unit for testing/repair. I recommend CCS in Indiana. Fast, and friendly service, used them many times. You will need to lose anything that was on the unit (settings, season passes and recordings) to ensure the drive is fully functional.
This happenned to me, and I took the power board out of the tivo and found that one of the solder joints on the main power supply connector had vaporized. I re-soldered it, and now the tivo boots, but gets no signal....
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Without looking up the specifications for this heat pump, I cannot be certain, but I expect the operation to provide cooling may require more power than when heating. You probably can find the specifications online for this unit. As you probably know, power is measured in watts and is calculated by voltage times current. This also is likely to be 240 volts operation. If you take the specified power on cooling and divide by voltage (240), that will indicate the current in amperage that will be required to start it. Your circuit breaker is set for current and needs to be a higher current than is required. If that is the problem, you can buy circuit breakers at Home Depot or Lowes. You have to remove the front panel of your breaker box and snap out the circuit breaker. To be safe it would be good to turn off the main breaker switch before you open the front panel and remove the circuit breaker for the heat pump. Should your calculation of current required be less than the rating of the circuit breaker, that implies a malfunction of the heat pump in the cooling mode and would require a service call to the local representative of the heat pump manufacturer.
In our shop we have found the conditions you describe are almost always attributable to the power supply. First, never run a compressor on an extension cord, you are always better off running longer air lines. If you absolutely have to run an extension cord use a least a 12 guage cord no longer than 25 feet. If possible plug the compressor in as close to the circuit box as possible. Lastly the circuit the compressor is plugged into should be rated at least 15 amps, 20 amps is recommended for most compressors. Low amp lines cause the motor to overheat trying to get enough power and usually blow the circuit breaker at the motor and not at the circuit breaker. Lastly, use only compressor oil in the pump and make sure it's not overfull. This will also cause the motor to work harder and trip the circuit breaker.
If it tripped the breaker with you only hitting the door switch it sounds like the door switch has a direct short. This means a hot wire is going to ground not good. But the first part of your problem sounded like the circuit was overloaded for the breaker or right at the limit of the breaker.(probably a 15 amp breaker) Breakers do get old and if you are working at there limit they will trip and more often over time. What else is on this circuit? Make sure you are not overloading your line. Take each appliance or light and take the wattage listed on it and devide it by the voltage this equals your amps then add all the amps up they should not be more that your breaker and usually only 80% of your breaker the 20% is for devices with motors or compressors that spike amps temporarily. good luck and be careful
You will have to "Find space" by deleting something/anything to make "space" for "New" material. Basically it is trying to tell you the drive is filled up and ya need to either delete or cut & paste away to some other media, some data, to get more space to record more stuff. OK?
if you have 120volts at plug,chk for a breaker inside unit and again voltage inside unit at terms on cord,then if so chk motor for a breaker on the motor,some have built-in breakers,then check door interlock switch for continuity and proper operation, then if electonically controlled check for a fuse and burns on the circuit,you may have suffered a voltage spike,and do it soon,the power supplier may be liable if you can prove he disconnected the neutral and you only had 240volts,this could be a cause also as it becomes a voltage divider circuit w/o the neutral connected
few possibilities......DEAD-need new one, not connected properly or needs new circuit inside dishwasher. Have you been able to test the power source? Is there power coming from the outlethard-wire? if si is it the full 120v? Dishwashers require a designated line with a 20amp breaker. Without adequate amp thru the breaker to the line it may not operate to it's fullest or turn on.
Is washer relatively new? Check circuit breaker for proper size (20 AMPS). Washer must also be on its own circuit. It appears that when the motor starts up it is causing a spike in current (as with any motor), so the breaker is either undersized (Note that if breaker is undersized and you up it to the next size you would also need to replace the wire with the next size up which would be 12/2 with ground), or if you have had your washer a while which I believe is your case the circuit breaker is weakening and is tripping on the current spike. Try swapping out your circuit breaker with a new one and try running the washer again.