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Where is TCO in Whirlpool GBD277PDS1 Oven?

I have a Whirlpool Gold single, electric, built-in, convection oven model #: GBD277PDS1, ser. #: XJ4601006. Yesterday I ran the self cleaning cycle, and now the oven is locked. I can open it with a screwdriver, but as soon as I shut the door it locks again, and I need the screwdriver again to open it. The display works fine (no error code) and the light can be turned on using the light on/off switch, but the oven does not heat or broil, and the light doesn't come on automatically when I open the door. I have tried to reset the oven by switching the power off for up to 10min, but no change occurred - the display showed PF for power failure, and after setting the clock, the display returned to normal, but the oven was still locked and no heat.

Reading through previous cases on this web site, I am guessing it is the Thermal Fuse, or Thermal Cut Off (TCO) that is likely to be the culprit, and I have ordered one (part # 4451442) via eBay ($29.55 incl. shipping). Being on a weekend and shortly before New Year, it might be some days before I get the thing, and I'd like to prepare myself for the installation. Most responses for related oven models indicate the TCO sits at the back of the oven, but one said it was at the back of the control panel. Does anybody know where it is in my particular oven, and do you have any tips for the installation? Many thanks!

Frank

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  • Frank Mueller
    Frank Mueller Dec 30, 2007

    Well, I found the TCO under the back panel. Of course it's not a recommended procedure, but since it seems a fair assumption that the only reason for the TCO to fry was that I used the self cleaning cycle, it will take at least a week to get the replacement, and I can't live without an oven for so long, I simply short circuited it, that is I replaces it by a piece of wire.

    Not the over heats again and the light comes on automatically, but it is still locked, and I need a screwdriver to push the looking hook just a quarter inch to the left every time I want to open the lock. I have a hunch that there is a spring on the hook behind the front panel that usually pulls the hook over to the left, but I have not yet opened that part of the oven to check. Any advice on how to tackle this, or part numbers for the spring or any other parts I might need?

    Many thanks

    Frank

  • Frank Mueller
    Frank Mueller Jan 11, 2008

    Just for the record, in case other people encounter a similar problem. A new TCO fixed all electrical problems, ie the oven heated again and the light worked, but it didn't bring back any functionality beyond what short circuiting the TCO had already done. The locking turned out to be a mechanical issue.

    I had to remove the top cover of the stove after taking it out of the cabinet it is built into. This allowed me to access the latch assembly (part # 4451424, $145 at Sears). There is no need to remove the control panel, and luckily I did not need an expensive new latch assembly either, but simply removed the spring that moves the latch into it's resting position, adjusted it a little, and snapped it back in place - it just clicks in. I also put a drop of WD40 on the moving parts of the latch. After that the thing worked again like new.

    I don't know if this problem was at all related to using the self cleaning cycle or unrelated, but the heat could have warped the spring a little, allowed it to move out of position, evaporated any remaining lubricant off the latch assembly, or all of the above.

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Posted on Dec 30, 2007

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