Question about GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Lower and Upper ovens not heating

I have power to the control panel and the display is not flashing any errors. I can still program a baking temperature but neither of the ovens are heating up. I checked the main breaker to the oven and got my full voltage 240 going to the unit. I do not have access to the back of the oven unless i take the whole units fully out. Is there a way i can verify without taking the unit out to get to the wall connection? I want to make sure  that I have all my phases coming in because it appears i lost my phase for the heating elements.  IT's a GE PROFILE JKP56B0A1BB built in double oven. It's about 8 yrs old. 
RIC M.

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  • MELEN Dec 29, 2007

    I reset the resettable limit switch, and that got the lower oven working.  But the upper oven is still not heating.  I checked the fan switch and it's open.  Should it be an open switch or should it be closed and only open when it gets to the limit?  Here's the model number for that switch (WB24K5085).




    Thanks for the last response.

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1 Answer

They have a thermal fuse in them that blows if too much heat builds up in them they have an improved blower moter thermal fuze kit for them i suppect thats the promblem contact ge for improved kit and inst ins

Posted on Dec 29, 2007

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Whirlpool oven, stove and range fault codes (ERC and EOC display errors).


Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.

WHIRLPOOL - most models
Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.

F1 - Analog control board Failure
Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board
F1 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - Oven temperature sensor open
Replace oven temperature probe
F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Oven too hot
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Clean temperature too hot
Replace oven probe
F5 - Door latch switch fault
Test and replace the door switch.


Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:

F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop)
Replace control board
F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot
Replace temp. probe
F5 - E0 - Check door latch
F5 - E1 - Check door latch
Replace switch if defective

WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:

F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error
Replace ERC
F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error
Replace ERC
F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors
Replace ERC
F1 E4:2 - Model ID error
Reinsert keytail.
F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error
Replace ERC
F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error
Replace keypad assembly
F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged
reinsert the keytail
F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open
Test and replace top probe.
F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe.
F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F5 E0:14 Door switch errot
Test and eventually replace door lock switch
F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating
Test and eventually replace door latch
F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error
Test the cooling module.
PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault.
PF occurs when power is disconnected.

WHIRLPOOL
Models SF3, 30'' and 24"

F2 - Oven temperature above specifications
Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control
F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure
Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary
F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure
Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary
F5 - Push button stuck or faulty
Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel
F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing)
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor)
Replace ERC.
F8 - Electronic control logic error
Replace ERC.

on Jan 31, 2010 | Whirlpool RBS305PDS Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Whirlpool built in electric oven


The upper element is for broiling and should not come on until you tell it broil. If it is coming on as soon as you turn on the breaker then it sounds like the printed circuit control board is bad. There is a relay on the board that engages when you program in the broiler. The relay can be hard to find and may not be removable. My broiler would come on when I programmed in the bake mode, go into runaway heat, put up a F10 code, and shut off. I could not clear it until I programmed in the clean mode for 2 hours. Now it works great.

Sep 07, 2014 | Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

2 Answers

Jtp45 lower oven hot heating on any cycle


Possibly a tripped thermal fuse. Should be located behind the panel in between the upper and lower ovens. Might have a red reset button on it you can push down. If it clicks and then works again, look for possible cooling fan problems.

May 12, 2014 | GE JTP45 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Turned oven to bake it keeps beeping with message "door"


Oven keeps beeping:
As there is no reprogramming of most control boards try this, disconnect the power and wait 30 seconds and then reconnecting the power.

If it's an "F1" fault code this generally implies an electronic oven control (EOC) failure. Disconnect the power, wait 30 seconds or longer and then reapply power. If "F1" returns upon power-up, replace the electronic oven control.
The oven control can be accessed and replaced from the rear of the control panel.

NOTE:Disconnect the power cord from the power source before removing the panel from behind the console.
If its an F2 ERROR CODE, The F2 error indicates an open circuit in the oven temperature probe.

Your range has a resettable thermostat in series with the oven temperature probe. If this thermostat opens the clock will display F2 and the oven won't heat.
You can reset the thermostat by pushing in the reset button on top of the thermostat.
Some ovens have an alarm that will beep continuously every six seconds to alert you that the oven is still on. Usually, a kitchen timer that you have set will cause the beeping, but occasionally it can be an error with the oven's settings. If it is the kitchen timer, you can simply push the "Kitchen Timer On/Off" button to end the continuous beeping. If that does not stop the beeping, it is probably beeping due to an error. You can turn the continuous beeping off but you may still need to troubleshoot the issue that is causing the beeping noise.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/how_12086370_ge-oven-stop-beeping.html


How to Get GE Oven to Stop Beeping eHow

Apr 21, 2014 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

Whirlpool wgp30801


It is common to have the broil element pulse on or they will send 120 volts to the broil element to even the heat in the oven. Some ovens have a preheat function that will power the broil and bake simultaneously until the oven reaches temperature then the broil element will shut down. If they both stay on red continuously through the entire bake process then something is wrong. Probably a stuck contact on the control.

Feb 12, 2014 | Ovens

1 Answer

Wolf ovens getting err message after power outage


I had a Wolf 30F wall oven with a similar problem
after power outage. It wouldnt stop beeping with error message related
to temperature control. My solution was to turn power of at circuit
panel, then reset by pressing and holding the clear button for 5
seconds.

Also note: in my case I had to close the display
before switching the panel off. When I tried to the reset process with
the panel showing, it wouldn\'t reset.



To reset other
various parts of the control panel Instructions said:



Time-of-Day Clock

Immediately after the oven is installed, set
the 12-hour clock to the current time of day. It may need to be reset
after a prolonged power failure. The clock is visible on the control
panel during all modes. If the upper oven timer is set, the clock will
not be visible in the upper oven control panel display.



SETTING CLOCK

1) Touch CLOCK.

2) Touch number pads to
set current time of day.

3) Touch CLOCK or ENTER to start
clock.



24-HOUR CLOCK

The time-of-day clock can be
changed from a 12-hour clock to a 24-hour clock. After the clock has
been set, touch TEMPERATURE for three seconds, touch CLOCK, and then
touch ENTER. Follow the same sequence to change back to the standard
12-hour clock setting.



Fahrenheit to Celsius

The
oven can be changed from Fahrenheit (°F) temperature to Celsius
(°C).

Oct 26, 2012 | Wolf Range Ovens

2 Answers

Shortly after end of 1 year warranty, KEMS378SSS04 began displaying F6E0 Lost Communication on lower over UI (not on the microwave). Turning power off/on (multiple times required sometimes) fixes the...


Hi,

Below is the complete instruction sheet.

You are having a communication error between the appliance. Here is the actual tech manual instructions for that code:

PROCEDURE: Before proceeding, press OFF, OFF, START to enter Diagnostic

mode and verify the error codes. Ensure AM software, UI software and EEPROM

CHECKSUM versions appear on the lower text line. If AM software and EEPROM

versions do not appear, UI and AM may not be communicating. Verify this for the

lower oven UI and for the microwave (upper oven) UI. The lower oven UI will show

the AM software version for the lower oven appliance manager, and the microwave

UI will show the AM software and EEPROM versions for the microwave appliance

manager.

If the lower oven UI is not displaying the AM software version, go to UI IS NOT

DISPLAYING AM SOFTWARE VERSION.

If the upper oven UI is not displaying the AM software and EEPROM versions,

go to UPPER OVEN UI IS NOT DISPLAYING THE AM SOFTWARE AND

EEPROM VERSIONS.

If lower oven UI and microwave UI are both displaying an error, go to LOWER

OVEN UI AND MICROWAVE UI ARE BOTH DISPLAYING AN ERROR.

UI IS NOT DISPLAYING AM SOFTWARE VERSION:

A. Unplug oven or disconnect power.

B. Open the back panels and make sure the P6 and P2 connectors are fully

inserted on the appliance manager and on the lower oven user interface board.

- If they are not plugged in, plug in connectors and go to step F.

- If they are plugged in, go to step C.

C. Visually inspect all wires between P6 on the appliance manager and P2 on the

lower user interface.

- Make sure wires are not cut or pinched.

- If the wires appear to be intact, perform a continuity check between

P6-1 of the appliance manager and P2-1 of the user interface board.

Complete for P6-2(AM) to P2-2(UI), P6-4(AM) to P2-4(UI) and P6-5(AM) to

P2-5(UI). All the measurements made should be less than 5 ?. If any of

these measurements exceeds 5 ?, go to step E.

D. Replace the appliance manager. Ensure all connectors are properly inserted.

E. Replace the wiring harness (signal). Ensure all connectors are properly inserted.

F. Replace all parts and panels before operating.

G. Plug in oven or reconnect power.

H. Observe for longer than 1 minute to determine if error has been repaired.

I. If error does not appear, initiate a bake cycle. Let the cycle run for at least

1 minute.

- If no error occurs, cancel the cycle, the problem has been repaired.

- If error occurs again, restart the troubleshooting procedure at step A.

At step D, replace the lower oven user interface board if appliance

manager has already been replaced.
- If both are replaced the problem has been repaired.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

May 22, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

Ov en will not heat up. no broiler heat or bake heat model number 790.96614407


Hi,

Your symptoms point to a failure in the electronic oven control board (that acts as the thermostat for the oven in this type of range). Unplug the range and remove the upper back panel to access this component. You will likely see to burn marks on the control board. The control board will need to be replaced in this situation.

Before installing the control board, I recommend that you check the bake and broil elements. Look for damage on both elements. Remove the lower back panel (with the range still unplugged ) and check the wiring connections on both elements. A damaged or shorted bake or broil element could have caused the problem with the control board.



Hope this helps.

Shane

Mar 01, 2011 | Kenmore Ovens

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The convection fan comes on intermittently, starts smoking then goes off. Temperature on the display doesn't move from 100F (then it did). My wife left the door closed while it was on broil last night (not sure how long), and this morning I woke up to the smell of burnt electrical and something (one of the fans...? not sure as it was far earlier than I usually get up) running that stopped when I opened the oven door and restarted when I closed it (I'm thinking it was probably running all night). While at work, I turned the breaker off, then pulled the oven out this evening. After taking some of the metal plates off, I put the power back on and turned the oven on for a 450F bake. I don't know if the little cooling fan at the top of the unit is supposed to go on when I have the top exposed and getting plenty of air; it wasn't and it also had a faint burnt electrical smell. After disconnecting then plugging the fan power connector to the circuit board the fan ran for 10-15 seconds before it started smoking and quit. I checked voltage across the fan leads and there wasn't any. I shut the oven off, tripped the breaker, and let it cool. I then tried testing the fan motor directly i.e. bypassing the oven and using a regular outlet since the motor is rated for 120V. It ran for ~1 minute, then smoked and quit. The smoke is definitely coming from the fan rather than any adjoining wires. Is this a case of the fan AND the control board going south or one contributing to the other's demise? I should add that the clock display has been dimming for a couple of years. UPDATE (2/20): I tried just baking (as opposed to convection baking) and the bottom element did come on (I'd reported earlier that it hadn't... that was because I was using convection baking and that does only heat around the fan... just my ignorance on that one). However, the temperature readout on the display did not move from 100F though it was clearly hotter than that in the oven. I then stopped the baking mode and started convection baking. This time the temperature gauge immediately went to 141F and kept climbing. Resistance at the (room temp) temperature sensor (and at the end of the wiring harness plugged into the control board was ~1100 ohms at room temp (as its supposed to be).

Feb 19, 2016 | GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

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