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I have this refrigerator and have the same problem of a loud popping sound emitting from the icemaker. It is caused by ice cubes becoming stuck between the mechanism and the side of the icemaker. I think it is just poor design. See photo.
Is it still cooling? I had an issue where there was a clicking noise from the back panel and the fridge did not cool. Pulling off the panel the noise seemed to from a box on the circuit board. Turns out there was a problem with the controler board and after some research I found that the board was covered under a recall. GE ended up sending a guy out to replace the board at no charge. Pretty cool being that if was after the warranty had expired; but I guess it makes sence since there was a recall. Good luck.
* If your refrigerator is under warranty, you must use an Authorized Service Company. An Authorized Service Company can be found by using our Service Locator. Enter your zip code on the Service Locator to get a listing of available service companies in your area. * You can also schedule service by calling our toll free number: 800-374-4432 M-F 9:00am - 5:30pm.
Back 2. How do I order parts?
* Parts can be ordered through an Authorized Frigidaire Parts Distributor. An Authorized Parts Distributor can be found by using our Parts Distributor Locator. Enter your zip code on the Parts Distributor Locator to get a listing of distributors in your area.
Back 3. Noises / Sounds.
* Dripping sound. During the defrost, water draining from the freezer section will drip into the pan by your compressor in the back and bottom of your refrigerator. * Air rushing or blowing. There is a fan in the freezer section and in some models in the back and bottom of your refrigerator to circulate air. This is a normal sound. * Louder when starting or coming on. Compressor operates at a higher pressure when first starting and noise should disappear as refrigerator continues to run and balance pressures. * Popping, crackling, or sizzling about once a day. If your model is self-defrosting, the defrost system utilizes a heater to remove the ice and frost from the freezer coil. During this period you will hear some expansion noises as heat is applied to the coil and you may experience some sizzling sounds as the melting water drips on the heater. * Running water. If you have an ice maker equipped model, the ice maker will call for water as the old batch of cubes is ejected and the ice maker starts to make more cubes. This will last for about 10 seconds and is normal. * Vibrating or rattling noises. The following can be sources of these noises: 1. Dish vibrating on shelf - move dish slightly. 2. Floor is uneven or cannot adequately support refrigerator. Use shims or extra support. 3. Items on top of refrigerator are rocking. Place a pad under the item or remove. 4. Refrigerator is not level. Adjust leveling legs or rollers as needed. Add shims in the back if floor is not level from front to back. 5. Refrigerator is touching wall or cabinets. See your owner's manual for space requirements. * Snapping or clicking sound. If your refrigerator is equipped with an ice maker the water valve will snap on when the ice maker is calling for water. This is normal. In some cases you may not have the water connected to your ice maker and the sound will be greater. In these cases, pull the wire signal arm (bail arm) on the ice maker in the up position to turn your ice maker off until the water supply line is installed.
Back 4. Taste and odors.
* Ice or food has a bad taste or odor. Ice and uncovered foods can pick up odors or taste from strong smelling foods in the refrigerator or freezer. Cover foods tightly and discard old ice. * Ice tastes like plastic. Plastic water lines will give off a taste when first used. It takes one or two containers of ice for plastic to stop leeching. Discard initial container of ice after installation.
Back 5. Ice maker - not making any ice.
* Freezer may not be cold enough. Temperature must be 5 F. or colder to work properly. * Water supply valve may be blocked or restricted. Supply valve must have a 1/4" opening for water to fully supply ice maker. Many self-piercing valves do not have this big of an opening. Replace water supply valve with one that has a 1/4" opening. * Water supply valve may not be open. Find and open the supply valve. * Wire signal arm on ice maker is in the up position. This position shuts off the ice maker. Pull wire arm (bail arm) down to start ice making.
We had the same problem. Our frigerator is 1.5 year old. Everytime we try to dispence water or ice the dispencer clicks and the whole thing turns of. We had a GE repairman come by: the electronic board needs to be replaced: total cost $350. (cost of the board only: $150.
We are considering disconnecting the dispencer by unplugging the board (according to the repain man the ice maker wil still work)or buy a new refrigurator (for sure NO GE!!!!!!)
check your freezer for ice. do you have alot of ice in your ice maker tray? if so your water line could be frozen. try to self defrost the freezer for about 3hrs to thaw out the water line. check your water valve also. when you call for water do you hear a humming or buzzing noise? on ge fridges ive worked on if you hear a humming noise when calling for water, most likely your water valve is ok. trace the water. meaning where does the water start? at the wall then through a hose then to your valve which is behind fridge on bottom. trace the hoses and you will find the prob