Question about Vizio L32 32 in. LCD HDTV

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L32 standby power only

I need help with the l32 that i am repairing. not responding to any keypress only yellow led light is on. the 5 volt pwr supply is ok. if the main/logic board is the problem, how can i repair it? tnx -Omell frm philippines

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  • Anonymous Feb 28, 2008

    my L32 will not come on from the yellow with the remote or by pushing the buttons. where do I get this main board from the solution?

  • Anonymous Feb 28, 2008

    I have the same problem with a Vizio 32 inch television that only has a standby light and does not respond to the on/off switch or the remote.

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I just had the same problem fixed. It is an internal problem with the "main board". You have to actually replace it. I am looking into fixing my other one identical to my other one and the identical problem too. Vizio fixed on "out of warranty", but for some reason will not fix the other, I guess I should be thankful, at least I know what the problem is.

Posted on Feb 15, 2008

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I have a TV that shows power on (red light on front of TV), but nothing on scree. TV model is LG 42LN5300-UB


Check the various voltages coming from the power supply board and see if they are all ok, there is a legend on the power supply board to show what voltages are at what pins on the connectors,the 5 volt standby we know is good as long as the set has sound, but check the others

Nov 08, 2017 | LG Televison & Video

1 Answer

Why is the green led blinking on my M3N72-D motherboard


The flickering green LED on the motherboard is illuminated by the standby power supply, a small completely independent, always on, 5 volt power supply labeled 5VSB usually, output is on the violet wire.

Here's some more detailed instructions about how to check a PSU.

Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire: 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

Oct 11, 2013 | ASUS Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Fault finding


Power is going to the motherboard, and you know this by assuming?

An assumption would be you see the Power Supply fan spin, LED lights light up, and maybe computer case fans spin.

Not an assumption, and you would have tested the 3 main voltage power rails, coming out of the Power Supply.

The Power Supply in your computer is an SMPS.
Switched-Mode Power Supply. (Also is known as the short abbreviation - PSU. Power Supply Unit)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

The Power Supply in your computer is a Converter.
It converts HIGH AC voltage into 3 LOW DC voltages.

[Depending on country,
USA = 120 Volts AC. UK = 240 Volts AC. Japan is 100 Volts AC, but may depend on area. Australia = 240 Volts AC. India = 240 Volts AC. HOWEVER, do not write the above in stone. I may have made an error ]

The 3 low main DC Voltages coming out of the Power Supply is;
A) 3.3 Volts DC
B) 5 Volts DC
C) 12 Volts DC

Orange wires carry 3.3 Volts DC
Red wires carry 5 Volts DC
Yellow wires carry 12 Volts DC
ALL Black wires are Ground wires. They can also be called Negative wires.
This is a DC circuit now. There is a Positive, and a Negative.
Orange, Red, and Yellow wires are power wires, and also Positive wires.

The first part of your diagnosis will be to test those 3 main voltage power rails.

[Digressing;
Using an example;
There are many Red wires coming out of the Power Supply.
These are 5 Volt wires. They are Connected TO, the 5 Volt power rail in the Power Supply.
ALL 5 Volt wires end in one place, in the Power Supply.
The 5 Volt power rail.
When you test just ONE red wire, you are testing the entire 5 Volt power rail coming from the Power Supply.

This also goes for the Orange wires, and Yellow wires ]

With the Red 5 Volt wires, and Yellow 12 Volt wires, you could just use a 4-pin Peripheral power cable to check them,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

Multimeter set to DC Voltage, the red (Positive) probe lead of the multimeter; touches the female metal terminal connector, for the Red wire.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-9420&utm_medium=Affiliate&ref=cj&utm_campaign=CommissionJunction&utm_source=CommissionJunction?t=2&utm_expid=8634549-14

The black (Negative) probe lead of the multimeter, touches a female metal terminal connector, that goes to a Black wire.

You should be reading 5 Volts DC.

Same thing for the Yellow 12 Volt wire.

With an Orange 3.3 Volt wire, this changes.
A straightened out paperclip is inserted, down into the BACK of the ATX main power cable's connector; AND into a socket hole with an Orange wire in it.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The straightened out paperclip, slides down into the socket hole, with the Orange wire in it.
Slides down into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the orange insulation of the wire, and MUST go down far enough; to Touch that female metal terminal connector.

EVERY wire going down into the ATX main power cable's connector, ends in a female metal terminal connector.

Same thing is down with a socket hole that has a Black wire in it.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires. (Negative)
You can choose ANY socket hole that has a Black wire in it.

Now touch the two probe leads of the multimeter, to their respective straightened out paperclips.

Red (Positive) probe lead of multimeter, to straightened out paperclip in Orange wire socket hole.
Black (Negative) probe lead of multimeter, to straightened out paperclip in Back wire socket hole.

You should be reading 3.3 Volts DC.

(Or if your multimeter kit has special probe lead, that would take the place of a straightened out paperclip, of course use it instead)

Know this;
A) If ALL of the LED's ('lights') were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

B) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

C) A typical CPU (Processor) can use 51 to 130 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor (CPU) it is.

This is why a Power Supply with a weak voltage power rail, will not have enough power to turn the Processor ON, but will have enough power to light those simpy LED's, and spin fans.

[LED - Light Emitting Diode ]

Regards,
joecoolvette

May 11, 2013 | Dell Computers & Internet

1 Answer

No power from gigabyte motherboard


Nope

Just basic diagnostic tools

First thing to check IS the Power Supply.
Then the diagnosis goes on.

So far all you have told me is an assumption. You ASSUME the Power Supply is OK.

Don't.

1) If ALL of the LED's were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can draw from 51 to 125 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor it is,

By having JUST the CPU on the motherboard, and the fan on the Power Supply doesn't work; you have just PROVED that.

Do you have a multimeter?
An economical one can be purchased for as little as $5 to $12.
Available in a multitude of stores.

There are 3 main voltages to check. Check while PSU is plugged into mobo. (Power Supply Unit; MOtherBOard)

A) 3.3 Volts
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts
All are DC Voltage. (Dotted line over a solid line for Multimeter)

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
The Red wires are 5 Volts
The Yellow wires are 12 Volts. All are DC Voltage. (DCV)

The 24-pin ATX main power cable is left plugged into the mobo.
The BACK of the power cable's connector; is where the wires go in.

Power Supply unplugged from power; a straightened out paperclip is inserted down into the socket hole with an Orange wire in it.
The paperclip slides down alongside the insulation of the Orange wire, and touches a metal female terminal.

Every wire going into the 24-pin ATX main power cable's connector, ends in a Molex female metal terminal,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

The brass tip openings can be seen, in the Playtool link's middle photo. (Tip openings; Front. Paperclip touches Back)
MUST touch that metal terminal.

Another paperclip is slid down into ANY socket hole, with a Black wires in it.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

Making sure the paperclip jumper wires, are of the correct length by cutting; there is no way they will accidentally touch each other.

Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter to Orange wire paperclip;
Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter to Black wire paperclip.
You should read 3.3 Volts (DC)

Do the same for the Red - 5 Volt wire. Red wire and Black wire.
12 Volt - Yellow wire and Black wire.

Post back in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

On another note;
Did you just recently mount the mobo to the computer case?
Did you use metal Standoff's, or plastic Spacers?
(Standoff - Hex shaped brass piece, usually 1/2 inch tall; and with a threaded hole on one end, and a threaded shaft on the other)

The Support Plate can be a separate metal plate; or is an integral part of the computer case.

IF, there is a Standoff on the Support Plate, that is NOT lined up to a motherboard mounting hole, it can touch exposed solder joints on the bottom of the motherboard.

This will short circuit the motherboard. MOST of the time when the 'offending' Standoff is removed; everything is OK.

Dec 25, 2012 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Cutting out but power light stays on. also sometimes will not start up, power light on but central (battery?) light flashes and disappears


Bad Power Supply.

Weak Voltage power rail. Enough power to light those two LED lights, but not enough power for the Processor.

Be nice if I knew the computer manufacturer name, and the Model Number.

A) When the computer's Power Supply is plugged into power, there is a 5 Volt Standby power present for the Power Supply.

This 5 Volt Standby power is what activates, (Turns on) the Power Supply, when you press the Power On button.
(The Power On switch located within the plastic Power On button, is a Momentary Contact Switch)

Power Supply activates, sends power to the motherboard.
(That LED light on the motherboard, indicates the motherboard is receiving power. Has nothing to do with the CMOS battery located on the motherboard)

The first chip to receive power is the BIOS chip.
(Chip and Chipset are slang terms for I.C.
Integrated Circuit

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Integrated_Circuit )

Power to the BIOS chip initializes the BIOS program, which is burned into the chip.

BIOS (program) looks to see what devices are installed, does a Ram Memory count, TURNS the Processor on, and hands the computer over to the O/S.

(O/S. Operating System. Windows XP is one example of an O/S)

1) ALL the LED lights use less than 1 Watt of power.
To include the Power On LED, the LED on the motherboard, and the LED light on the Power Supply.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts. So if you see any fans spinning, (Then stop of course), they don't use squat for power.

3) A typical Processor uses 51 to 125 Watts. (Less for older Processors such as the Intel Pentium III's, and what have you)

So you are getting power, right up to the point that BIOS goes to turn the Processor on, then there isn't enough power to turn the Processor on, or keep it on.

Bad Power Supply.
Weak Voltage power rail

The SMPS (Switched-Mode Power Supply) in your computer produces three main Voltages.

A) 3.3 Volts (3 point 3)
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts

[All are DC voltage.
Two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC ]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

Wires that have Orange insulation on them are 3.3 Volt wires.
Red wires are 5 Volts
Yellow wires are 12 Volts.

You will see many wires in the cables inside the computer, that carry these colors.

All of these wires terminate inside the power supply.
EACH Voltage terminates in One terminal point within the circuitry of the Power Supply.

The 3.3 Volt wires terminate in one central point, in the circuitry within the Power Supply.
This is the 3.3 Volt power rail.

The 5 Volt wires, and 12 Volt wires follow suit.
There is a 5 Volt power rail, and a 12 Volt power rail.

Hence the term Power Rail, and my reference above to - Weak Voltage power rail.

The power rail to be most concerned with when testing a Power Supply, is the 12 Volt power rail.

You can test it with an economical multimeter, (Translates to cheap), or an economical power supply tester.

Economical multimeter's run from $5 to $12.
Found in a variety of stores. An auto parts store may be one avenue of approach, and perhaps Radio Shack. (Not advertising for Radio Shack)

This is one example of a power supply tester,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5250576&CatId=5471

Power Supply unplugged from power, the Positive (Red) probe lead of the multimeter, is connected to any Yellow wire.
I attach an alligator clip to the probe lead, and clip it to a metal terminal at the end of a Yellow wire.

The Negative (Black) probe lead is connected to a Ground wire.
ANY wire that has Black insulation on it, is a Ground wire.

Then plug the Power Supply into power, press the Power On button, observe what Voltage is present.

11 to 13 Volts indicates the Power Supply is fine.\
Less than 11 Volts means it's time to replace the Power Supply.

[NOTE*
Should state.
BEFORE you reach inside your open computer case to test the 12 Volt power rail, the computer should be unplugged from power.
You should also observe Anti-Static precautions.

Anti-Static Precautions:
Your body carries Static electricity.
Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit) the delicate hardware components inside a computer.

You may not even see it, or feel it.

Computer unplugged from power, computer case open, TOUCH the metal frame of the open computer case.
This action will relieve your body of Static.

Should you leave your computer in the middle, while working on it, upon your return Touch the metal frame again.
Or use a $6 ESD wrist strap, and connect the alligator clip to the metal frame.
(Electro Static Discharge)

Or, you can use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply for a test unit.

It has to be KNOWN to be good, or you will be right back to where you are now.

Compatible:
Has to have the correct power cables, and has to have at least the minimum amount, of power cables needed.
Extra power cables can be tied up out of the way. (Use plastic ties, not paper wrapped metal, bread ties)

Reference to power cables, and their respective connectors, used in personal computers,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html

[There are those who may have a computer that is unused, and sitting around.
Has been replaced by a newer computer, or what have you.

The Power Supply could be borrowed for the test, then returned to the donor computer.
IF, the Power Supply is KNOWN to be good, and Compatible.
Just food for thought ]

DO NOT open a Power Supply, and attempt to repair it!

Inside the Power Supply are various hardware components.
Some of these components are Electrolytic Capacitors.

[One's used in Power Supply's at present, {To my knowledge}, are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor ]

The basic operation of a Capacitor is to slowly build up a charge, then release it all at once.

Think of a large swimming pool being filled up by a garden hose, then when full, one side of the pool is taken down all at once.

IF, your finger/s touch the terminals on the bottom of a charged capacitor, the charge can be released to You!

IF, your finger/s touch a circuit that one, or more capacitors are in, and your fingers complete the circuit, the charge can be released to You!

BAD shock to FATAL!

The capacitors are discharged in a proper manner, with a proper device, before working on an electronic device. (One example is a computer Power Supply)

Jul 02, 2010 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Power ligh starts yellow goes green but no sound or video


your inverter board is failing try shop jimmy.com for parts

Sep 18, 2009 | Vizio L32 32 in. LCD HDTV

1 Answer

Busted component


Getting a schematic is rather doubtful. You might be able to get a general idea of the circuit from somewhere on the 'net.

Was the power supply dead?

ATX style power supplies have both a standby and main section. The standby supplies a low current +5 volts to a small portion of the motherboard.

If the component failure is in this section, this standby voltage will be missing or incorrect, and the computer will be dead- won't power on at all.

I've seen a number of catastrophic failures in this standby circuit, and repair isn't suggested or economically feasible, especially as some parts often poof beyond identification.

When the pwr button is pushed, the main section comes on, and supplies +5 (Red wires), +12 (Yellow wires), +3.3 (Orange wires), -5, -12. Look here for this info http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml

Voltages are precisely regulated, and any substantial deviation (more than a few 10ths of a volt) indicate a problem, especially on the +5 & +3.3 lines.

Jul 07, 2008 | Okia / 450-Watt / ATX / 80mm Fan /...

1 Answer

Power supply


Is this by chance a computer power supply? Does the computer come on when the power button is pushed? If so, then the fan itself is bad- bearings are stuck/lubricant dried up etc. Replacement fans are readily available at low cost.

if the power supply is dead, then likely an internal component has failed. If you have some tech savvy, a voltmeter, soldering/desoldering items & skill, you may be able to repair the supply. A very common failure is one or more electrolytic capacitors, and these may show visible signs of failure- bulged out end, and/or leakage.

ATX style power supplies, used in most machines of the past 8-10 years have both a standby and main section. The standby supplies a low current +5 volts to a small portion of the motherboard. When the pwr button is pushed, the main section comes on, and supplies +5 (Red wires), +12 (Yellow wires), +3.3 (Orange wires), -5, -12. Look here for this info http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml

Voltages are precisely regulated, and any substantial deviation (more than a few 10ths of a volt) indicate a problem, especially on the +5 & +3.3 lines.

Anyway, you could make these checks. Replacement electrolytics- use the Panasonic FC series (designed for switching power supplies) available from Digi-key electronics, or equivalents (Mouser electronics another possible supplier).

Jul 05, 2008 | Compaq (243890-001) 250-Watt Power Supply

1 Answer

Pc no start.........


You might have a bad power supply. If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage of the standby power supply. This voltage is present even if the system is off, plugged in. It powers a small portion of the logic circuit. It should measure within a couple of tenths of exactly +5 volts. If it is low, or high, this will prevent turn-on. The purple wire of the 24 pin connector is what carries this to the motherboard. The color coding layout is found at http://pinouts.ru/Power/atx_v2_pinout.shtml If by chance this voltage is OK, then check the full on voltages also. Repair of the defective supply is probably by replacement of one or more small electrolytic capacitors in the appropriate circuit, especially if you are technically savvy. Capacitors are available through several suppliers; Digi-Key supplyies Panasonic FC series which are suitable for switching power supplies. Or, you may just replace the whole unit.

Apr 24, 2007 | HP and Compaq Pavilion Replacement 200w...

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