No Power... Main Fuse Blows right away. Resistor R809 has its outer layer burned off so I cant tell what value it is.
Is R809 my only problem? or is the transistor pack on the other side of it also damaged. There is no sign of overheating to the transpack. Whats yoru oppion. Also .. I need to find out the value for R809. ty email@example.com
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This sounds like a power relay has failed. Sounds like it gets enough power to tell you the error code, but not power on the t.v. many times fuses can be hidden inside a layer of heat shrink tubing and these are what are called through hole fuses. They will normally look like a large resistor on end without and value markings.
A Thermistor is a fail-safe protection device to prevent further damage to components or to prevent fires.
It is a small component that looks like a resistor but it is similar to a fuse/resistor combination in a sense that when too much heat or resistance is in the line the thermistor will burn out to prevent further damage or fires.
Thermistors are typically found inside of transformer coils, as you pry back the winding covers you may find one attached to the windings inside of the outer layers of paper of the transformer. They are easily tested and replaced.
Generally they would only burn out if there was a condition making them overheat such as resistance in a motor from bad bearings or further electronic failure, but a power surge could have fried it too.
It may be easier to replace the transformer itself from a similar but scrapped appliance...
Let us use a bit of logic to resolve this... I have an Axiom but it would be a lot of screws to take out to get to the part... so let us think about this. The resistor value starts with a "1" and we know it is 5% tolerance (gold). we know the resistor burnt up with likely 5 volts on it... Value could be 1000 ohms, however the voltages present (12 volts max) would NOT have burned up a resistor of 1000 ohms. The USB area is mostly 5 volts and across 100 ohms is only a quarter watt... not enough to really burn up a resistor... First thing is to MEASURE that the resistor s open... in spite of being burned, it MAY still be OK... these resistors now usually either open or remain close to their value. The resistor ALSO may be a fusible resistor intended to act as a fuse... Is the resistor open or not? is it near a resistance with a "1" as the first digit? If it is not open I suspect it is not all of the problem. In that case, look for a burned circuit trace on the board. If it is open, then MEASURE the voltage across the resistor with the power applied. If you find 5 volts, then it MIGHT be a 10 ohm used to limit the USB current to 500ma. Get back to me with your findings... I have unraveled many of these things...
Most common burned resistor are those with low resistance because it acts like a fuse to avoid further damaged to some parts if shorts,overload happened. But still best to have a schematic diagram to identify the burned one. If you haven't a schematic you may get the resistance of the resistor, measure it to the middle where the burned cut out, add the resistance from one half side to other half side. You may now have an Idea what may be the value of the burned resistor.
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
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You did a lot of damage, and replacing the fuse and trying it has caused much more.
There will be about seven blown parts on the amp and a dozen on the power supply. To give you an idea of the extent, the WHOLESALE parts cost is roughly $50, including the main power supply switchers IGBT's which cost nearly $20 for the pair by themselves.
I have repaired several of these and the larger cousin the PMP5000. It is a lot of skilled work to repair these.
The cause is a marginal insulation between layers of the multi-layer amplifier board. Usually the rearmost amp arcs between the layers. This fries three big switching transistors followed sometimes by a metering resistor and two small surface mounted transistors. A zener diode often goes. The cancer and burned area has to be ground out with a dental drill and new wire replaces the blown circuit traces.
If you are under warranty, take the unit for replacement.
The thing that can arc the amp is if speaker leads are marginal or get pulled out while under power. Excessive volume, especially pulses at high level can break down the insulaton causing the arc and failure. The black smoke is likely from the metering resistor.
R14109=750ohms 5% 1/4w
There is much more likely wrong with the TV. Resistor don't normally burn out with help, say, without a failing flyback transformer and possibly taking a transistor or two with it.
If you need the manual, go to
and type in "F31317" into the search field, you will several listings.
If you decide to replace it yourself, here's some more part numbers in case you need them.
Necessary parts: Transistor(Q14401)
Main Voltage regulator Q14101
Resistor R14109 open.
Research indicated the flyback transformer most probably bad
Hope this helps you.
"Beta tester of "0"s and "1's"