I have this unit in my boat. It was working great until the other day I went to get a cold one and it wasn't cold. It sounds like it wants to work. Oh, my boat partner was getting the ice off the coils a few years ago with an ice pick. Of course he stabbed the coil so I wound up replacing the whole cooling unit about 3 years ago. So it is mostly new except for the box. Help!!
Your cooling unit is shot, I suggest. Most likely, you've lost the R341 refrigerant. Norcold, so they can sell you another cooling unit at $500+, does not make these little fridges with a service port so you can recharge the system. Same with Dometic. Solution is to spend, again, $500+ for a new sealed unit that will fail in relatively short order (I'm on my second in five years) or buy a better refrigerator. I'm opting for a new fridge this go around (Vitrifrigo). Vitrifrigo has the needed service port.
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it's almost like it's to cold and needs to warm up or something first, How cold does it get there? I can't imagine it even gets to temps as cold as here. In my experience I've seen T.V's where this has happened and only gotten worse as time went on until one day....It never come on at all. But it wasn't a flat panel either. maybe it's letting you know she's about to kick the bucket. Try warming it up with a hair dryer in the morning first and see if it stays on then, then you'll know at least it temp related. other then that sorry guy
If the compressor is working then the condenser at the back should feel warm while the compressor is running, some of these have a single compressor and some two compressors, the units are fitted with independant power supplies so I would check these first. If you need any further info please come back to me
Occasional defrosting is needed on these units. 2 weeks isn't that bad considering the environment that it is in (your boat). Every time that you open the door, moist air enters the fridge, and the moisture eventually collects on the freezer plate, and freezes. Putting foods into the freezer that are uncovered also contribute to this a great deal, as do putting in warm / hot foods before giving chance to cool down.
These freezers do not have automatic defrosters. The target environment typically has limited power available. Automatic defrosters would easily double the power requirements.
You can also check the door seals on your fridge as well. If they are not sealing properly, they can also let in humid air which then causes moisture to collect on freezer plate.
I have a norcold fridge model #N811RT and the flash code blinks 5 times then stops then repeats. both fridge and freezer are not cold were are currently living in are 5th wheel and it was currently -30c for 3 days any help would be of assistence.
air circulaton over the cooling unit on norcold is critical get out you owners manuakl look up baffels and make sure all are in tact and also no animals have made a home behind you refer you have done all you can do inside the problem lies on the outside of the refer where the cooling unit is
Your question is: Can you install an auxiliary thermostat on the DC power feed to stop the power draw when cooling is not required?
I understand your frustration. I live on a boat. Since the fridge thermostat is reducing the amp draw when the compressor is off, just remember to turn off the curcuit when you leave the boat and emptying the fridge. You are probly doing this already. Since any modification to a new unit voids the warranty I wouldn't go down that path. The unit should have been tested before installation. Water under the bridge. I agree with the manufacturer. I would tear it out and get a warranty replacement. Sorry, Norcold is right, this is the least painfull way out. It is beter than the cost of repair.
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Firstly you only had their word that it was cold when you bought it. A fridge with a compressor should be kept upright when it is moved and if it isn't it should be allowed to settle for a few hours before switching on. Once switched on it can take several minutes for refrigeration to begin and that would only be known by somebody holding a hand against the evaporator. It could take significantly longer for the interior to cool significantly considering the low wattage of the motor.
I am wondering how long they tested it before declaring it was ok and saleable...
Getting the right polarity when connecting equipment to a direct current is paramount and rarely is there a second chance if you get it wrong - trial and error is not an option, especially if the unit contains electronics. It is possible you got it wrong.
I suggest you take a look through a magnifier at the circuit board tracks. If you find one cracked or burned you might be able to make a repair and be very lucky, otherwise you probably should take the unit to a specialist for repair or perhaps return it to the junkyard as faulty...