Question about Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

Intertherm heater i have an indoor unit . the elements are fine . do i get 220 voltage across or 110 at the connector for the elements. i m pretty sur its a sequencer how do i check the double sequencer. i get voltage in and out

Posted by on


3 Answers

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points


    An expert that got 5 achievements.


    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.


    An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.

  • Expert
  • 144 Answers

You said that the elements are fine. How do you know that. How are you checking. Just having continuity won't do it. Remove the wires from the element and check from one side to ground to make sure it's not grounded. By switch do you mean breaker? My money is on a bad element.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

Keeps blowing the switch and burning the wires to the element

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • zeagler Jan 17, 2009

    keeps blowing the switch and burning the wires to the element

  • FLOYD PFINGSTEN Mar 26, 2011

    Sounds like you have a short if you keep burning the switch and burning wires.



  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.


    An expert that has over 10 points.


    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

    Problem Solver:

    An expert who has answered 5 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 10 Answers

You should have 24vac at the 2 lowest terminals 1 on each side of the sequencer with a call for heat.( that is the control voltage,the terminals are usually double spade brass in color) If you have the control voltage after about 30-120 seconds the sequencer should close.The voltage reading across the sequencer should go from 230vac to 0 volts when the sequencer closes.If you have control voltage and 230vac on each side of the sequencer then the sequencer is bad.It is beast if replacing the sequencer replace by moving 1 wire at a time from the old to the new.And ALWAYS make sure power is truned off.

Posted on Dec 29, 2007

1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

What else can I try, my Intertherm water heater is not heating water off the lower element?

I should like to hope I have your answer.
If yours is like most U.S. model, it is called a 220 volt unit.
That is not really 220 volts, it is really 2 separate 110 volt units.
What that means is, there are actually 2 separate 110 volt hot wires to the water heater, usually one hot wire is black, and the other hot wire is red.
One is for the upper heating unit, one is for the lower heating unit. Perhaps your lower unit has blown the circuit breaker for that line.
I mean the circuit breaker in the main fuse box/circuit breaker box.
Did you test the lower wiring to see if the hot wire is hot?
If it is hot, be sure to test the ground wire, and also the wiring between the bottom and the top of the heater inside it.
God bless your efforts.

Jan 04, 2018 | Water Water Heaters

3 Answers

Oven is slow to heat up and will not heat above 250

You may have a bad heater coil in the oven or have lost a leg in the 220 line. Check and reset the breaker 1st then check the voltage in the receptacle. It should be 110 from each leg to ground and 220 across the hot legs.

Jan 03, 2015 | Maytag MEW6530DDS Stainless Steel Electric...

1 Answer

I just bought a 10 yr. old Schult mobile home and after moving it to a new lot, I have no hot water. The heater is an Intertherm. I checked incoming voltage and it is ~120v, and the plate says 240v. My...

The incoming voltage should be 220-240. Check voltage across terminal that power supply is hooked to.Each incoming leg should read 120 to ground and 240 across . Check to see that thermostat is turned up to highest setting,usually 140 degrees,and check reset button to make sure it stays in in position. If you push reset in and it pops right back out you probably have a bad element. Check elements by going across terminals when you know element should be on.Hope this helps you. Thanks

Dec 19, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Whirpool LER4634JQ1 runs but no heat checked the vent it is fine lint build up in either the dryer or the vent

The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuit can be accessed by simply removing the back panel of the dryer. The heating circuits will be located on the right hand side. The Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set (part number AP3094244). Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. The heating element part number is AP3094254. All these parts can be found at

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Aug 02, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Motor runs fine, heat element will not heat, replaced heat element, no luck. Safety's checked out, timer ok.

Make sure where you dryer plug cord hockes into the dryer has 220 with a voltage meter read from left one to the right one should get 220 from right one to middle you should get 110 and from left onetto middle you should also get 110 the dryer will run with 110 but will not heat

Mar 28, 2009 | GE DBSR453EBWW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My kenmore dryer is running but not heating - model # 110.66642501 - is 3 years old

CHeck if you have 220v at the dryer. The motor is 110 the heater is 220. If you have this then you'll have to access the inside and test the voltage at the heater with the unit turned on and running. If you have voltage then at the heater your element is probably bad but sometimes there is a safety fuse or switch inside or on the element case.

If you don't have 220v at the element with it runnign the typical items are the timmer, the safety(s) switches, the opperating thermostat, the motor cintrifgal switch and there may be more. Consult your diagram for complete circutry.

Mar 08, 2009 | Hotpoint Dryers

1 Answer

Grill element not heatingelement has been checked and is ok

1. remove element, check the voltage should be about 220 volts across the wires.(warning this can KILL YOU have somebody that knows what they are doing check it) remember to turn on at knob when ready and turn off too!
2. if no voltage, check breaker, or check it first, some may have a 110 curcuit for lights and a 220 for elements
3. if voltage is there the element may still be bad, if it was checked with a ohm meter, reading may have been bad, but looked OK.
4. If other elements work I would check switch next with the volt meter not ohm. incoming and out voltage.
Thermostat may have went bad.
5. replace as needed.

Feb 18, 2009 | Belling Ovens

2 Answers

Heat coils in central air conditioning unit look fine under examination, checked with an ohmmeter both coils showed continuity. Power at both coils indicated 110 volts. Unit fan runs fine but there is no...

Are you getting 120 vac or 220 vac at the unit? Check the voltage at the first terminals inside the unit as well as the breaker. You should have 220 vac at the elements and you are dropping a leg some where.

Jan 17, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Replacement Element does not work

If it is a double circuit element, then you will only get 110 vlolts across one circuit, and 220 volts across the other circuit..
If however it is a single circuit element, and you are only getting 110 volts, then I would suggest that you have a high resistance somewhere that is stoping it from getting 220 volts.
Hook the element directly to a 220volt supply and check voltage .
Plz rate my solution.

Dec 16, 2008 | GE JRP24 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Intertherm outside unit - s3ba-036k - does not run

Measure the voltage across the line. The outside unit normally runs on 220 Volts. Measuring each side of the line to ground will give 110 Volts. If your outside disconnect is of a fused type one fuse could be blown. If a fuse is blown on one side of the line you will read zero volts differential across the line.

Check the type of fuse used in the disconnect. Make sure the proper size time delay fuse is installed on both sides of the line at the disconnect.

May 17, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

Not finding what you are looking for?
Heating & Cooling Logo

Related Topics:

178 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Heating & Cooling Experts

Paul Carew

Level 3 Expert

3335 Answers

Mack Baxter

Level 3 Expert

383 Answers


Level 3 Expert

82208 Answers

Are you a Heating and Cooling Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides