I hate myself right now... there was plastic packaging around the small receiver and I decided to try and cut it off. That was probably the stupidest idea because all of a sudden, my hand slips and cuts the whole thing in half.
My question is, is it a good idea to strip/twist/tape the wire for it to get fixed? This is really critical cause I think I just voided my warranty and it was a Christmas present from my brother. The speakers worked REALLY well before I tried to get that small little wod of plastic off the wire of my receiver. My other brother, the "technical expert" helped me install the speakers but now he left to go back home and I'm not sure what to do.
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Re: Broken remote receiver
You can splice the wire. electric solder is a good option or you can use compression splice connectors available from electronic stores like frys or radio shack. you will be ok. wires are joined inside devices, outside them and at the interface from component to component. you should have no loss of quality. relax and enjoy. simple repair. good luck mark
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If it is simply because the button shell has cracked I cut about 2mm off of a plastic straw place that small ring around button area and tape a piece of tin foil over top. The tinfoil bridges the connection when pressed down and the plastic ring allows it to disconnect so your not killing batteries
I tried to get one for my machine but to no avail. So I fixed my gear myself. Go to your local hardware and buy a "Devcon" plastic welder. Not inexpensive.
You have a broken tooth on the plastic gear. Use a very small
drill bit the size of a big paper clip. drill three holes where the tooth broke off ( if part of the gear tooth is still there, file it down smooth.) Cut three pieces off a paper clip and insert them into the holes. Make them extend to below the gear and not to extend above the original tooth. Now you will make a tooth with the plastic
weld. Fill where the broken tooth was and let it set. Also fill where the paper clip extends below the tooth. This will give it more strength. Let it dry and harden. Now with a small file, file it to make it fit to the next tooth so it doesn't make a bump. " if you can before the mix dries, replace the gear and turn by hand the steel gears to make a smooth fit. Wipe any excess mix away. Good luck....
PS. mine is still working after three years....Hint do not try to shred
to many papers at one time. And once in a while put some 3 in one oil on a piece of paper in a sig sag motion and run it thru the machine. This will help to quiet the noise and oil the cutting blade.
If you still have enough surface area to work with, you can repair the plastic where the screws go with two part epoxy. You can get it in a package that looks like a big double barreled syringe. Take the switch right out, cut a piece of plastic from a plastic lid or something similar to fit, and glue it on with the epoxy. When it is dry, drill two very small holes where the screws are supposed to go, and reinstall it. It will probably outlast the machine. (do not try to fix it with crazy glue or anything like that. You need the thickness of the epoxy)
There are a few things I have experienced that may help you.
Possible solution 1 - Try flipping the batteries around. Some times I put the batteries in backwards with + and - not matching by mistake.
Possible solution 2 - Try fresh batteries. The batteries may be low or empty. A family member I know and myself have both had been in a similar situation where "new" batteries right out of the package have been bad.
Possible solution 3 - Your remote is just broken and it needs to be replaced. They are usually pretty cheap and you don't want to spend too much time fixing one that may not be able to be repaired.
try cleaning small lens on end of remote and receiver window on t-v (usually a small plastic covered window- on the front). if still have problem- could be you need new batteries in remote, or button on remote needs cleaning. a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol (91% or better!) use very little alcohol- just damp! may have some crud around button. good luck!
if the heater core inlet pipe broke you may need to replace the unit depending on how far it broke ...to help get the hose off a bent awl or sometimes a small screwdriver and run it around the inside of the hose to help loosen it it otherwise if your replacing the hose as well a razor knife you can cut a **** in it to open it up as well
I hate to ask the obvious but is your water supply turned back on since the filter change?
It may be turned off. Look for the wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. If so, try one of these:
If your ice maker has a small red plastic lever, lower it to lower the wire.
If there's no plastic lever, simply lower the wire.
In either case, the ice maker should begin producing ice again. Also make sure that the temperature is 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly.
The ice maker fill tube may be blocked with ice. If so, melt the blockage using a hair dryer-but be careful to not melt any plastic parts! Also replace the water shut-off valve or water-inlet valve, or both, if necessary.
The ice maker head assembly may have broken parts. Look to see if the gears are broken. Check to see if the small plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken. If the ice maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts, you can just replace it.
Moments after I posted my original question, I decided to go for it. Here's what I did.
Grasp the remote in two hands with the "Light" button sticking up and closest to your left hand. If you rotate the top of your left hand away from your body and the top of your right hand towards your body, flexing the remote, a small opening will appear to the right of the "Light" button. Get a small screwdriver in there and start working it around the perimeter of the remote. There are indents every inch or two around the remote. Be careful when separating the shells as the battery holders are integrated into the black part of the shell and can bend easily.
Once I got inside, I found that the LCD panel had become completely disconnected. I just needed to plug back in the LCD panel ribbon cable and the remote worked perfectly again.
My DSC-W1 camera's both tabs broken. I was looking for a solution when I saw this thread.
I decided to try to fix myself. Here is what I did
> small nail file
> supper glue
> small piece of Alum Approx 1mm thick
Step1: File the tab base down about 1mm when you start to see the 'L' shape.
Step 2: Use sissor to cut the Alum sheet into Approx 3mm x 3mm square. Make sure it is flat. Position it on the base to try out the fit
Step 3: Apply supper glue to the tab base, glue on the square.
Step 4: Repeat on the second broken tab
You are done!