Worked fine yesterday. Turned it on this morning and had no power. Checked the breaker and it had tripped. Flipped it back on. Unit had power but wouldn't fill with water. Thinking something electrical must have tripped the breaker of course. Checked the float which appears fine(it's down). Haven't check voltage to the valve yet. Thought I'd see what you think before I waste more time checking things that might be unrelated. If it might be the timer, can you please tell me where it's located? Underneath or in the door? No schematic came with this unit. Just typical owner's manual.
have favorit 4220 no water, checked inlet valve works but still no water getting through, someone suggested float switch, how do i get that out? from inside or underneath?
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Re: no water entering
COLINSPARK; The timer is the connected to the back of the control dial. (the door) If nothing is working, Don't forget about the door switch, If you had a short that tripped the breaker, I bet its there somewhere. The float switch is underneath. remove the front panel under the door, the float switch is activated by that little bulb inside the machine. If you lift the bulb up and down, you should be able to hear the switch clicking. If its clicking and has power going into and out of it (when its down down) its not the float switch. I bet the schematic is on the backside of the panel underneath the door.
RKIRK2K;.. This irregular problem does, unfortunately point to the timer/selector control. Before you commit to this expensive part. Check the door switch, it can make the same symptoms. Remove the panel on the door, find the little switch and by-pass the wires going to it by connecting them together. This this is a part that is usually $100 less than the timer. The resistance on the timer control can vary depending on what its set. But it is very refreshing having someone who can actually read one. If they have one I'm happy.
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Make sure the unit is plugged into the outlet under the sink. sometimes when moving things around under the sink, the plug may have come out of the socket in the wall. If that is ok, then you will need to make sure the D/W is getting power. You can use a multi-meter or small plug-in checker that lights up when inserted into the receptacle or outlet to check for power, or have a qualified electrician check for you. Also, just because a breaker does not look like it is tripped, doesn't mean its not. Sometimes that also has to be checked to verify it still has power. Most have to be fully turned off, then back on to be sure it has reset. One more thing to check would be to see if the dishwasher is connected to a GFCI as that may have tripped.
First turn off the breaker. Once you have the power off, take off the bottom panel.You will see where the electric wire comes into the dishwasher, it should have a small cover over the connections.Take off the cover and you will most likely find that one connection came apart. Be sure to clean up the wires and use new wire nuts and be sure to use electical tape over them.
Okay, this might seem crazy, but it worked. I spent the last 2 days trying to contact Danby customer service to no avail, so I came back here to look for solutions. Found two:
(1) Someone said to open the little rubber cover under the front right of the machine...I couldn't find such a cover.
(2) Someone said to pull off the front plastic panel...mine doesn't seem to be removeable.
So! I turned my Danby DDW1805 upside-down (!) to see if I could locate the aforementioned rubber cover, and a bunch of water drained out of the machine. This is what both solutions above said I wanted to happen, so I flipped it back right-side up and hooked it back onto my faucet.
Golden. Works perfectly again.
Most likely the transorb has shorted out and the heavy amp draw has blown out the flood switch.. Also, it is very likely that the 24v water valve relay on the control board has burned the contacts! The 24v relay can be replaced by desoldering the contacts and replacing it.. This is a very common relay and can be located online at mouser.com. the flood swich unti can be replace with a lever micro switch from the same source... Cost you about $20 plus shipment. A nice fun project with a $120 savings. Good luck... Just did mine and I purchased two of each for the "next time"! As for the "transorb"...... nice to save a valve..... which is about $20 or less, but puts at risk a whole lot more.... leave it out of the curcuit... just clip the wires and tape them off.