I need direction how to remove Kenmore washing machine clutch

No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.



Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.



Check the clutch, motor coupler, brake assembly, transmission, and mode shifter or actuator. one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.



Or try the hand test:



If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING: This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.



- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid

- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.



LID SWITCH TEST- next step is to  HYPERLINK "http://fixitnow.com/wp/2003/08/31/mailbag-opening-a-whirlpool-or-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/" remove the cabinet and jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem is not in the gearcase- look for trouble in the  HYPERLINK "http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-whirlpool+clutch-%3d%3di2670&PartID=2670" o "Clutch for a Whirlpool direct drive washer" "_blank" clutch,  HYPERLINK "http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1254" o "Basket Drive for a Whirlpool direct drive washer" "_blank" basket drive or the  HYPERLINK "http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2858" o "Drive Block for a Whirlpool direct drive washer" "_blank" tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem with  HYPERLINK "http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2855" o "Motor Coupling for a Whirlpool direct drive washer" "_blank" the motor drive coupler or one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.



Read more:  HYPERLINK "http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/" l "ixzz3XW7eZwiN" Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer



 HYPERLINK "http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/" l "ixzz3XW7eZwiN" http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.



Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.



Check the clutch, motor coupler, brake assembly, transmission, and mode shifter or actuator. one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.



Or try the hand test:



If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING: This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.



- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid

- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.



LID SWITCH TEST- next step is to  HYPERLINK "http://fixitnow.com/wp/2003/08/31/mailbag-opening-a-whirlpool-or-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/" remove the cabinet and jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem is not in the gearcase- look for trouble in the  HYPERLINK "http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-whirlpool+clutch-%3d%3di2670&PartID=2670" o "Clutch for a Whirlpool direct drive washer" "_blank" clutch,  HYPERLINK "http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1254" o "Basket Drive for a Whirlpool direct drive washer" "_blank" basket drive or the  HYPERLINK "http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2858" o "Drive Block for a Whirlpool direct drive washer" "_blank" tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem with  HYPERLINK "http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2855" o "Motor Coupling for a Whirlpool direct drive washer" "_blank" the motor drive coupler or one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.



Read more:  HYPERLINK "http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/" l "ixzz3XW7eZwiN" Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer



 HYPERLINK "http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/" l "ixzz3XW7eZwiN" http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

This is caused by the clutch being worn in these newer direct drive washers. Order a complete clutch assembly from an online store for that make and model and you will receive instructions with it. Get some tools and Fix it yourself. You can get case removal instructions by typing the question "How to remove the case of..........".Really, there's nothing hard or heavy in the procedures.

possibly a timer fault if everything down below checks out. does the machine have a capacitor? check that first.

The clutch is likely worn or has oil on the pads. You will need to replace the clutch assembly, available HERE. The clutch is accessed by removing the gearcase assembly.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.22642100

It's likely that the brake (which stops the tub) is engaged when the clutch / transmission is removed.

A tab on the brake is engaged by the clutch spring.

If you are going to pull the transmission in order to get to the clutch (Sears has a clutch rebuild kit instead of having to buy the complete clutch assembly), I'd pull the brake and drive tube assembly also to check the brake and springs.

Following is an illustrated set of instructions on how to pull the pump, motor, transmission and brake assembly.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=2b032a4fc7eb55782e68a26559e72e0a

In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".

Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,

You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)

I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

This also assumes that:

1. The machine will agitate and go through the rest of the cycles.

2. It will pump out the water.

3. Since it tries to spin, the Lid Switch is OK.

The problem points to the clutch and / or transmission

See the following for how to pull the clutch on Kenmore top load direct drive washers.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the clutch springs and pads seem OK, the problem points to the main spin gear inside of the transmission. If the clutch springs and/or pads are damaged, there is a rebuild kit for them.

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and maintenance PDF on how their top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Here is another PDF of the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers, consumer models are basically the same.

If you look at the operation PDF you'll see how the transmission works when going into the spin cycle. If the "Neutral Drain" cams are intact, they drive the main spin gear which drives the spin gear connected to the clutch.

If the main spin gear is broken (It's a metal plate surrounded by plastic gears) you would hear a major grinding noise and the washer wouldn't spin.

Opening the transmission is not difficult but is a messy job. It holds about 14Oz. of oil.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the main spin gear or neutral drain assembly cams are damaged, they aren't too difficult to replace.

The Whirlpool Parts PDF has part numbers for both.

The Neutral drain assembly costs about $15 which is a lot less than $170 for a new transmission.

The Main spin gear is quite a bit more but still less than a transmission.

This assumes that your washer is a top loading unit.

There isn't a clutch adjustment on Kenmore / Whirlpool top loader, direct drive washers.

Sears does have a clutch rebuild kit however.

See the Sears site:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

and enter your model number.

A list of sub-components should come up.

Click on the motor and clutch link and you should see parts for a complete clutch and the band and lining kit.

Replacing either requires removing the cabinet, agitators, pump, motor and transmission.

Then removing the clip that holds the clutch to the top of the transmission and either replacing the entire clutch or just the band and lining.

Hello jpdarrish,

“” Having similar problem as many with machine not spinning and stalling at the first spin cycle and never completing. I opened the lid during the cycle and see the tumplers will spin ok but the tub will not spin and cannot move in either direction by hand.”” Was this the original issue before you removed the clutch? Were you taking dc or UC errors to the display?

“”As a note, the tub will turn freely by hand while the clutch is disengaged. As soon as it's seated, it's impossible to turn the tub by hand.”” By disengaged do you mean that the clutch pulley was removed from the machine and the wash basket rotates CCW freely?

With the Clutch pulley installed properly the wash basket will only rotate CCW it will no rotate CW that is normal operation. You should beable to rotate the wash basket CCW with one finger and very little resistance with the clutch installed.

""I did remove the clutch assembly. The sping mechanism looks good. I used WD-40 and some bearing lube on the needle bearings. But the bearings will only turn in one direction. Is that normal? Anyway, I reassembled (took a bit of work to get it completely seated) and tried but still having same issue.""

Yes this a Drawn Cup Roller Clutch designed to rotate one way only clockwise for our FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines.
My description of how I believe the Roller clutch bearing engages the spinner shaft to spin the clutch basket.

This write up is my understanding of how this clutch system works in the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW. I could be wrong and would invite any comments from the forum to help me better understand how the clutch works in wash and spin cycle;

The clutch in the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW incorporates a Drawn Cup Roller clutch bearing. This roller clutch bearing will allow one-way rotation freely in clockwise rotation. The FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW washer uses a reversing motor which has power supplied by the motor controller. In wash cycle the motor controller powers the motor to produce clockwise rotation which turns the clutch pulley CW. The Roller Clutch Bearing spins freely in the CW direction so only the agitator shaft will rotate driving the transmission to rotate the tumblers. In spin cycle the motor controller powers the motor CCW. This rotates the clutch pulley CCW and the Roller Clutch Bearing locks up and drives the spinner shaft CCW. At the start of a spin cycle the tumblers will rotate ¼ to ½ turn of rotation and no more as the clutch spring is wound to tension. Once the spring is wound to tension the spinner shaft begins rotating the spinner plate which rotates the transmission and wash basket CCW. Because the transmission is spinning at the same rate as the wash basket the tumblers do not rotate. This will happen if the clutch spring is broken and in spin cycle the wash basket will spin very slowly with no clothes in the wash basket and the tumblers will rotate. You will need to replace the clutch.

Dose you clutch look like the one on the left or right? My is on the right and my machine is a series 16 1st digits of my s/n are 16.




If your Roller Clutch bearings rotate freely in CW direction and you installed the clutch pulley correctly you should beable to rotate the washbasket CCW with the lid open with one finger. If it dosent we have some binding issues with the clutch install. This is from a post of a forum member I helped. He has a good install fitment process. This is a challange but I can no do to it in less then 5 min. after a dozen or so clutch removal and installs of my machine.

""The Service manual download was very helpful because it has a few pictures to show the 1/16"-1/8" gap from the shaft to the clutch face. What this really is telling you is that "if" you get all the three parts (clutch plate- bearing sleeve and cream colored plastic piece with 2 raised projections) to the clutch assembly back in correctly, you will end up with the 1/16"-1/8" gap. I also did my repair by tilting the machine back and working on it in place. Test the fit of each of the 3 pieces seperately so you will have a better idea what you are trying to fit. The cream colored plastic piece with 2 raised projections "seats" into the bottom of the tub. The bearing also seats onto the shaft in the notches. The clutch simply fits on the square shaft. The trick is getting the 3 piece assembly on with every piece seated correctly. By no means impossible, but working in limited space it was the most difficult part to do. Something that I thought of (after the repair) was to actually cut out the sheet metal directly below the clutch. This would allow easy access for the reassembly.’”

Again I believe your original clutch uses the upper bearing piece, as pipespike states you have to get the fitment of the upper bearing assembly the bearing sleeve I call it the coupler and the clutch seated properly to get that 1/16"-1/8" gap shown in the Service manual page 47.

Try a reinstall of the clutch after reviewing the above comments. After the clutch reinstall first try to rotate the wash basket CCW with one finger it should offer very little resistance and not rotate in a CW direction.

Post back for any additional help. Rich

Remove drive shaft,remove crossmember under transmission.Remove transmission and diconnect linkage.Remove bell housing,and clutch berring assembely.Remove bolts on pressure plate.Once this is done.Remove fly wheel for machineing.you will need a pilot shaft to alighn clutch assemblely.Possible one will come with new clutch and pressure plate.Reverse assemblely in same order remember to torque all your bolts with torque wrench.Take your time.