Question about GE 24 in. Profile PDW7800 Built-in Dishwasher
Worked fine yesterday. Turned it on this morning and had no power. Checked the breaker and it had tripped. Flipped it back on. Unit had power but wouldn't fill with water. Thinking something electrical must have tripped the breaker of course. Checked the float which appears fine(it's down). Haven't check voltage to the valve yet. Thought I'd see what you think before I waste more time checking things that might be unrelated. If it might be the timer, can you please tell me where it's located? Underneath or in the door? No schematic came with this unit. Just typical owner's manual.
Most likely the transorb has shorted out and the heavy amp draw has blown out the flood switch.. Also, it is very likely that the 24v water valve relay on the control board has burned the contacts!
The 24v relay can be replaced by desoldering the contacts and replacing it.. This is a very common relay and can be located online at mouser.com. the flood swich unti can be replace with a lever micro switch from the same source... Cost you about $20 plus shipment. A nice fun project with a $120 savings. Good luck... Just did mine and I purchased two of each for the "next time"! As for the "transorb"...... nice to save a valve..... which is about $20 or less, but puts at risk a whole lot more.... leave it out of the curcuit... just clip the wires and tape them off.
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
I see that this string is a year old, but I just experienced a similar problem with my GE Profile Dishwasher PDW7880G00SS. It seemed to be a problem with the water valve. The schematics are missing from the dishwasher, and GE does not see fit to provide them online.
On closer inspection, the float switch was open and the wires connected to the water valve indicated a short. I removed the wires and checked the valve, which now indicated about 1k ohm. Rechecked the wires, which indicated a dead short. This appears to be the "Transorb" that was mentioned. After taking apart the Float switch, it appears to be completely destroyed. The float switch indicates that it is rated for 3 amperes...seems like a bad design.
The average cost of a new float switch is between $40-$70. Not sure about the Transorb, or what else may be damaged. At this point I think that Solution #3, carwhisperer, has the right idea.
Posted on May 25, 2010
If your dishwasher breaker is trips and your dishwasher isn't filling with water:
Flip the breaker OFF. Remove the flood switch and test it with a meter for continuity. The flat metal piece pushes down on a contact inside the switch. It should have a little spring to it. When you push down it should come back up. If it doesn't the switch is fried. However, something may have caused it to burn out. If you just buy the flood switch and reinstall it, you may burn out another one. Chances are you will. It's a gamble but if you just install the flood switch, flip the breaker back ON and it trips the breaker again you will probably have to replace the control board, flood switch, and transorb. About $140 for all I think.
Posted on Jan 25, 2008
I'm not a dishwater repairman or electrician. I am certified up to 70 volts which doesn't help here but, I bet I do know what your problem is. I fixed mine and it did the same thing. More than likely, if the breaker has tripped, and now it's not filling up with water, the flood switch broke. There is metal inside the switch and if it breaks within, those metal parts that broke can short out the switch and throw the breaker. It's easy to repair and the switch cost about $ 40. Before you buy one though, you want to remove the old switch and test it with an ohmeter to be sure that's the problem.
Flip the dishwater breaker off at the panel before you try anything !.
The flood assembly is usually right up front under the dishwasher and under the float mechanism which is up front inside the dishwasher.
Remove the two wire clip attached to the flood assembly. It's a clip/push on deal.
Remove the old switch. Usually two screws hold it in place. The float may come down with it so don't lose it or forget to put it back in.
Now you have the switch in your hand. Attach the two leads of your meter to the two terminals. The weight of the thin metal bar pushes down on a contact under it that makes an electrical connection in the switch that signals the inlet valve to let water in. Your meter should show continuity. If it doesn't the switch is broke. But just to make sure, push down lightly on the metal bar. Probably still no continutiy right? . Now hold the switch upside down so that the metal piece isn't touching the contact point under it at all. Still no continutiy? The switch is bad.
My unit is a GE PDW8800.
Posted on Jan 08, 2008
Age of unit? type of use ie: heavy - 3 loads a day, or light - 3 loads a week. that will clue us to likely culprit.
breaker tripping suggests excessive amperage. if you have 120 v at the solenoid valve then the valve is bad. you also might have a clogged line. if you turned the water off in the house for something, and the plumbing is older galvanized, there is often 'sanding' of fixtures that causes problems with toilets most often, but anything with a filter. that could clog the valve, but not very likely.
the timer is a board. do not have schematics, but usually easy to locate because the wiring eminates from there to the pump, the inlet valve, and the door soap disp. look for arc markings where you can see. a mirror will help.
the element could have overheated and tripped the breaker but that would not stop if from filling.
i suspect its the power supply to the timer region that is likely the cause. check the obvious / easy first. then test the voltage on the sol valve.
the manual may be downloadable from ge. not sure.
Posted on Dec 28, 2007
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