Runs but dont heat:
The heating element have got old and
brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little
gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the
limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the
timer could be bad.
Runs but takes a long time to dry the clothes:
Sometimes blower wheels will get loose in dryers. Sometimes they will get a whole lump of lint in them or you can hear a rattling noise in the dryer, this is the blower wheel, its worn out and it can cause the fuse to blow too,or it can half *** work and take fifty forever's to dry the clothes.Or it could be just that the dryer needs a good blowing out .I use a lawn blower to get all the lint out of the dryer as well as the vent pipe and
vent to outside. I take the filter HOUSING out and wash it also. That is, I remove the housing and clean is good! Making sure that the dryer is properly flowing air is a good thing!
Expert
