It seems a majority of the time the problem is D315. This comes in the kit or seperately for about $5 (that is about $13 with shipping). If you are cheap try this. D315 is a SIDAC made by SHINDEGEN My part number was K1V23N. Others
have reported it labeled as K1V237, K1V269, and K1V66. Suspect the last one is
a typing error. Found it by google K1V2 and K1V24 pooped up.
This will not test as a regular diode, polarity does not matter at all.
It starts conducting in either direction when voltage is over 180V. A
post on another forum said it started conducting when it reached 185V,
but he still didn't know what it was. An ohm meter will never detect
anything.
A SIDAC (not a SIDACtor) is a thyristor that at a certain voltage turns
into a short till current stops or reverses direction. Since this is in
series withC1330, they should both be replaced. Mine is a .22 instead
of a .1 so there is variance in these sets. ESR was a little over 2
ohms which sems on the ify side for something that carries current.
ONSEMI has a MKP33V240 that sells for about 50 cents at digikey and a
K1V24 at Mouser is about a buck. Decide for yourself if this is a
suitable item.
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