no engine stated, so any help will be wrong, !!!!!!
V6? we cant open hood and look, so we are blind as bats. here.
bad input nets bad output , just like a computer.
i dont think its LHT. left hand treads.
its either rusty,
or last guy used red loctite and needs 300F heat to get IT, soft.
or your not trying up to 150fl-lbs of reverse torque.
my damper is at 100/ft/lbs
and will take way more to break free (no locktite)
my guess 2 is this is a slush pump car, a A/T tranny?
and as such , you cant lock the M/t in 5th gear?
sure, and the FSM shows what to do , to get it off for A/Ts
some engines, have special tool.
and or a pulley locking device. (home made works, made many)
some guys just use impact gun and strip the treads out of the crank
and the new FSMs all say, (DONT DO THAT, exactly)
in a shop the dork that does that , just calls you and say, hey buddy
your crankshaft is wrecked, (dont let them touch your engine)
btw l, read the fsm.
and all words for the UNSAID actions you are taking.
here is one , just to scare you.
quotes.
Reprogram the crankshaft position (CKP) pattern. Run the engine until the operating temperature reaches 176 degree. With the engine stopped clear the CKP pattern. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Turn the ignition switch ON and wait thirty seconds.
Check PULSAR F/B LEARN in the data list with the HDS. If not complete repeat the procedure. If complete, road test the vehicle on a level surface. Decelerate the engine speed of 5000 rpm to 3000 rpm. If equipped with automatic transaxle use two Drive positions. If equipped with manual transaxle use first gear.
see, may be the stuck bolt is a blessing,
here i will quote the pulley page for the 3.0L
just to show what a pain A/T cars are. (unsaid tranny )
- Raise and safely support the vehicle.
- Remove the right front wheel.
- Remove the splash shield.
- Remove the drive belt.
- Hold the pulley with the holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B).
- Remove the bolt with a heavy duty 19 mm socket (C) and breaker bar, then remove the crankshaft pulley.
7- clean the crankshaft
pulleys (A), crankshaft (B), bolt (C), and washer (D). Lubricate with new engine oil as shown.
Install the crankshaft
pulley, and tighten the bolt, as follows. Do not use an impact wrench.
- Hold the pulley with the holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B), then tighten the bolt to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm) with a torque wrench and 19 mm socket (C)
- Mark (D) the bolt head and crankshaft pulley as shown, then tighten the bolt an additional 60 ? (The mark on the bolt head should line up with the mark on the crankshaft pulley)
- Install the drive belt.
- Install the splash shield.
- Install the right front wheel.
note carefully this bolt is not set to a final torque,
it uses base plus angle.
id use a new bolt. (im savvy and hate buying new crank shafts)
I set everything at TDC, cam gears, crankshaft and balancers, front and rear. Lines up perfect everywhere, including flywheel. It is a 5 speed m/t btw. I just tried firing it up, and it does the same thing. I hear the fuel pump come on, I know I have spark, and gas. Checked the main relay.
Here's a short video of the sound it makes when I turn it over, and it will NOT fire up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ye8fSosaH...
To be even MORE precise:
When I turn the ignition on, I hear the fuel pump prime, replaced the main relay cause it was free, and it works, but when I hit the ignition, the starter whines as in the video above. The engine spins, but will not fire at all. All belts, cams and pulleys turn. So I am guessing the starter is engaging, I'm at a complete loss of ideas now.
So after weeks of eliminating stuff, I discover the fuel lines were smashed pretty good when the pulley fell off. In two places. Would this explain why it won't fire?? I noticed after bending them back a bit I get a pop or two similiar to a backfire. So I must not be getting enough fuel to fire it up?!?!?!??
So after replacing the fuel lines, same thing. Nothing changes (but the fuel lines needed replaced anyways). Any more suggestions I'm out....
So.... it's been a a while. So today got a compression check, 0 compression all four cylinders. Took the valve cover off, removed all 16 rockers, closing the valves (right?) and still 0 compression? What it the world is going on??? WHY? WHAT?
×