Question about Faberware FSU-236 Coffee Maker

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Wont heat up....2 piece copper band is seperated. Loks like it should be soldered together. Cant follow the circuit visualy. Understand the heat coil then swithc to warm but cant figure out the thermostat circuit.

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Re: Wont heat up....2 piece copper band is seperated....

The copper "band" is your element. check out nelson small appliance for parts. you may need a new element. one side of your "line" goes to the element, the rest is a circuit in series with the other element lead - switch - thermostat etc.

Posted on Dec 27, 2007

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Dose not heat

If on/off light comes on but no heat---remove bottom part. The heating coil looks like a horseshoe(biggest piece you see when bottom is opened). On the ends of the horseshoe near where wires come out there should be metal clips on heating coil holding some wires. Slip the wires/covers from clips and pull back the covering over the part that the clip was holding(you will be exposing the fuse).
Take piece of wire and connect to 1 side of fuse then connect other end of wire to other side of fuse so you have by-passed the fuse. HANDS AWAY FROM MAKER-- plug in maker and press on/off button. put your hand near where the coffee pot sits and check for heat. As soon as heat is detected, unplug maker and REMOVE WIRE !!. This confirms the fuse as the problem. Remember that there usually is at least 2 fuses. You need to verify the size of (thermal fuses). Both of mine were 184 degrees C. Check "" for your size thermal fuse. You will need to crimp new fuse in instead of using solder. Good luck

Jun 25, 2014 | Gevalia CM-500 12 Cup Coffee Maker

1 Answer

Krups KM7005

Unfortunately, it seems that China is the only one manufacturing the thermal fuses and they are notoriously inaccurate, tough to find as replacement parts and most often they are spot-welded to the heating element's leads, something most owners can't accomplish.Soldering them isn't wise since they are located close enough to the heating element to cause solder to flow.
There is a type of barrier connector common in Europe, hard to find elsewhere, that uses screws to hold the wires to be brought together; one hole that goes through a metal channel and has screws mounted at 90 degrees so that each of the wires are held by one screw.I have replaced the thermal fuses this way with some ancient US made stock (once had reason to keep these on hand) that is rated for lower temperatures and therefore must be mounted slightly farther away from the heating element. I wouldn't do this to someone else's coffee maker since I cannot guarantee the effectiveness of the thermal fuses installed.
Do NOT decide to just jump the blown thermal fuse with a piece of copper wire. I know of one case this was done and the machine failed to shut down on time and a Formica counter was set ablaze.
Some cases of circuit breakers tripping may be those which combine a GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter) into the breaker and will trip if even a minor ground current is sensed and this can occur from moisture trapped inside the machine.This type is commonly found in newer homes on circuits located close to any exposed plumbing to prevent death by electrocution.

Feb 06, 2012 | Krups KM7000

1 Answer

My hot pot wont turn on,,its like new and rarely been used

I've got a Betty Crocker BC-1762 Hot Pot that also won't turn on. There's a connection between the switch and the heating element (encased in a piece of white thermal tubing) that includes an SF152E thermal fuse that tests open. These are available for a buck apiece or so. Replacing it might be tricky, because the fuse is crimped into the circuit, not soldered.

Mar 29, 2011 | Betty Crocker Coffee Makers & Espresso...

1 Answer

Re: Farberware Model FSU-122. On First use "a Friend" plugged in the new urn. The red light came on. Then it became apparent that NO WATER was added. Quickly removed top, basket and stem...THEN ADDED...

Hi Jerry. It is the fuse. This fuse does not look like any fuse we are used to seeing. Very easy fix. the fuse looks like a 2-4" long piece of flat copper about 1/2" wide with a samll drop of solder in the middle. I sell the parts on eBay under ron622c, if you cant find one. Good luck. Ron

Jul 22, 2010 | Faberware 10-22 Cup Coffee Urn

1 Answer

Water wont heat. Warmer has no heat but light is on

Hello, One of the wires soldered to the underside of the warming plate had fell off due to poor soldering.The warming plate and the warning light are connected together with piggy back connectors so that is why the light is on even when the warmer is cold. Bye

Jul 03, 2010 | GE 106591 Coffee Maker

1 Answer

No heat

Same problem with mine. There was a burnt connection on the heating block.
To fix this: 1) Unplug!
2) Unscrew top, 5 screws total. 2 on the back near the top, 1 under the water reservoir lid, and 2 up inside long black tubes located on the front two corners of the overhanging section. 3) Remove top, you'll see a large chunk of metal with a lot of wires connected to it. any one of these could be bad, but in all likely hood it's one of the 2 main power wires to the heating block. These are located on the back of the heating block. 2 metal posts with a flat piece if metal welded to each and a spade terminal on over that with either a red or blue wire. (colors may very, but i imagine it's universal)

For me it was the left of these two connections that was bad, the flat piece of metal was burnt and the connection was broken. To fix this I found a small metal clamp and clamped the spade terminal to the flat piece of metal. Soldering probably won't work, because the heating block could get hot enough to melt the solder, so this was the only suitable option. Short of actually removing the heating block and welding a new piece of metal onto the post.
4) Fix broken connection, if there's no obvious broken connection, or discoloration of wires, then it could be a bad heating block. Changing the heating block would be difficult to do safely for the unexperienced, so attempting this isn't suggested.
5) Return top and screws. 6) Make a delicious latte to celebrate

May 03, 2010 | Breville ESP8XL Espresso Machine

1 Answer

Hotplate not heating up and water not being taken into the machine

you have blown the thermal heat switches usuallythere are two but it usually only blows one of them. they are located under the heating plate they look like small bullets check with a test meter to see if current passed through them if it does not replace them they are cheap and do not solder theminto place they are held together by copper wire clips as heating plate will get hot enough to remelt solder and lose connection... word of warning those thermal safty switches do on ocasion do go out without any problems but most of the time they blow due to a problem problem with the coffee maker. thats whatthey are there for .so you may wat to replace coffee maker for safety sake. and in the event you want to try your hand a coffee pot repair youhave the perfect guinny pig... good luck

Mar 18, 2010 | Dualit 84022 Coffee Maker

2 Answers

Solis Crema SL90 NO HEAT

There can be a couple of things. The heating element could be bad. Check with an ohms meter. 12 - 16 ohms between the element terminals. You could have a bad power board. There is a solder connection that seperates and can be resoldered. Look for a small bulls eye where 3 solder connections make a triangle in the top left side. A little heat and new solder can fix it sometimes but don't put too much solder on or you will short the connections. If this doesn't fix the problem you need a new board.

Jan 21, 2010 | Solis Crema SL-70 Espresso Machine

2 Answers

Krups KM7005 coffeemaker/grinder does not heat or drip the water

The heating plate is actually your hot water heater for the unit and it has most likely failed. The water flows through the heating plate and heats the water for brewing. Krups replaced my whole coffee brewer.

Dec 15, 2009 | Krups Small Appliances Espresso Machine

5 Answers

Black & Decker Coffee Maker DE755B--Thermal Fuse

Hi, the actual part you are talking about is not the heat fuse but the heat relay.

I have the same coffee pot, it 'died' on me and I was able to fix it. I actually had a bad relay AND a bad fuse. Here is what I did to get it working again WITHOUT purchasing any new parts and still keeping things SAFE.

Fist, unplug it! Remove the bottom cover ( you may need a special screwdriver for one of the screws, I had to file a notch in an old flat head ).

Unscrew the nut that connects the element to a bracket and to the plate. Remove the parts and set aside.

First thing you need to check is to see if it one ( or both ) of the actual fuses are burnt out. There is a wire that goes from the relay ( white ceramic cylinder ) to the heating element ( thick aluminum loop ), this wire has an extra sheath on it. Under this sheath there are 2 heat fuses in series. Check these fuses to see if one or both are burnt out. One of mine was. If both of yours are burnt out, you will need to order new ones ( see a post here ), if only one is out, you can do what I did. Using 2 pairs of needle nose pliers, I carefully loosened the crimping on both sides of the burnt out fuse and removed it. Using the same crimping I attached the remaining good fuse to the wire. Make sure you now have continuity from the output of the relay to the element.

The relay is the round ceramic thing with an aluminum "cap". It is attached to the heating element via a small black clip. Put an ohm meeter across this piece, if you have continuity, the contacts are probably welded shut, which is why your fuse blew. If not, the likely cause it, the contacts are burnt. Either way the fix is the same.

At the base of this relay there is a small lip. I used a small file to make this lip thin in one spot, then I carefully peeled it off all the way around. There is a crease right before the lip ( the part of the cap closest to the wires side of the relay ) and the lip peeled away nicely along this crease without damaging the cap itself. You can now remove the cap part and see the relay workings underneath. Be very careful when you remove the cap. Under the cap is a black piece of some kind of rubber with a tiny white piece of plastic in the middle. Don't lose these.

Now using an old toothbrush and some acetone clean the relay contacts and carefully free them if they are welded shut. Now use a small piece of fine sandpaper to clean up both of the contacts. Check the unit with a ohm meter, and if you have continuity, this part is done.

Now that you have peeled the lip off the relay, the pressure of the clip is required to hold it together. Carefully reassemble the relay ( don't forget the little white piece ) and while holding it together, against the spot on the element you removed it from, slide the clip on and back into place. Using the ohm meter again, check that every thing is connected as it should. With the switch on ( you DID unplug it, RIGHT? ) you should have continuity all the way from the plug to the heating element. If all is well put it back together and make some coffee.

I had some extra thermal grease laying around, so I cleaned of the old stuff and put some new on before reassembling ( where the element contacts the burner plate ). This probably not necessary, but not a bad idea either.

Dec 01, 2007 | Black & Decker (050876530606)

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