Unit runs ok with top cowling off, but with cowling on unit dies out with in sceconds. Unit has a new air pump installed and a new ignitor. Hopefuly you can help us.
I have the same type problome with the model 3VE50A 125,000 BTU if the upper cowlen is off it runs fine but as soon as you put the cover on it shuts down all of the filters have been cleaned per the manual and i have installed all new fuel lines ,air lines and have adjusted the pump pressure to the sujested 5 PSI
In the original manual for 3E219B it does say the pressure shoule be 5psi. If you would like I can email you a copy of the mail just email me at email@example.com. As for the 3VE50A you can go to http://www.bealsmotor.com/heathogprices.html and click on the model and find the correct pressure for that heater. There is also a place to order parts. Check to be sure you have no air leaks in the filter cover or air lines or fittings, clean filters and then adjust your pressure.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you can only get 4 psi from the pump then you have a problem with the rotor. This could be from the vanes not coming out properly of if you have replaced or serviced the rotor you may not have the clearance set properly between the pump ring and the top of the rotor.
Make sure to inspect the pump cover for any small cracks..
If you pump pressure in not enough the unit will not be able to pull fuel from the tank and you will see the burner cone slowly start to go from the orange color to a dark color and the unit will shut down.
Have you tried the flue vent? If not, an easy way to check this would be to take the vent pipe off of the unit and see if it continues to have the problem. In most cases, this happens when you have blocked return air or dirty filters, flue blocked, or induction is blocked from switch or housing. One other possibility would be a dirty/clogged a coil which isn't allowing sufficient air to push out causing the limit to trip. I hope this helps somewhat.
I have never seen a dayton gas heater but I will try. If this is an LP Gas
System are you using a 30lb. Cylinder, 100 lb cylinder or a whole house
Next are you sure you got the right gas unit for the right gas system?
If using LP gas did you put an external pressure regulator before the unit?
Next is the a hot surface glow coil or a spark system ignition system?
If you have to hold the controller down and press a button similar to a outdoor gas grille is it sparking?
If it is sparking,did you bleed all of the air out? This could take several
tries on a new unit. Does this have a wall mounted thermostat that
controls the heater? Finally check to make sure that the gas valve
is switched on if it has that option.
Sounds like a bad fan switch. The switch is located on the heat exchanger and is 110 volt bi-metal switch. Follow the wires from the blower going back to the heatexchanger. Graingers can get you a new switch if you give them your model number. www.grainger.com.
has the transformer fallen off the motor assy.there are two screws that hold the transformer on.some times they vibrate out and the transformer losses it's ground.if they are in and tight you need a new one.cost about $80.00 for new one
the air pressure is not correct on either units.the photo cell DOES NOT look for light any more,it count the light flashes.if the flame is not in the right possition the heater will shut down....after the unit ignites the ignitor is no longer used to keep the unit working,just the fuel that is being fed to the flame ball.that's why the pressure is so inportant.......
air compressor output should be 3.5 psi. to the fuel nozzle. the cowlings purpose is to channel the air-fan output through the rear vanes of the combustion chamber. if these openings are restricted then air can't get into the chamber. check to see that the fan blades aren't jammed against the cowling. if they won't spin then you won't get any air through the unit.