Question about Teac GF-350 CD Shelf System

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Early tone arm pickup

We have some old 78's that have relatively long recording tracks. The result is that the dead space in the center is a little small and the tone arm picks up before the record is done playing. Is there any way to adjust where the tone arm picks up?

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On some record players there is an adjusting screw at the back of the tone arm that adjusts the tone arm drop in location but I don't think it will adjust the pick up point. That is controled by a steel rod under the record player deck that moves over and pushes a little trip lever near the center of the platter so that a gear is engauged and the end of record cycle is started. I'm not sure but you may be able to find an adjustment under the deck that is near the rotation point of the tone arm that will adjust that rod so that it will pickup later. Hope this helps some.

Posted on Dec 27, 2007


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Hello Caufield,

Ideas... Yes, indeed,

But without a MAKE or MODEL they focus
a lot on ESP & other psychic capabilities...

(Mind reading: The lack thereof)... Sorry...!!

In ye olden daze...
when I was young the (stacked record CHANGERS &
simple turn table) TONE arms were largely Rube
electro-mechanical thingy-ma-call-it...
that triggered off of the wag action of the center grooves ...
(in all 78, 45 and 33 rpm records (once upon a time)).
Rube Goldberg Wikipedia

Without BENEFIT of year, make or model... ONE
might ACTUALLY look at the mechanical MECHANISM
and SEE the broken or missing spring, link or cam...

The very first/last action of ARM CONTROL was
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Without that FUNCTION "working" you are just
ruining records & needles...

My best advice would be to REPOST with
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Try it... you will like it and it is still totally FREE

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Hi Vat,
Although I live in Canada now, I was born in the former
Czecholsovakia. While I spent a year in the Czech Republic in
2006, I was amazed how advanced their technology was, in
comparison to Canada or the US. If you want modern technology,
Prague is the place to go. Anyway ...

1) As I said before, do NOT adjust the tone-arm weight up
and down. This setting must be set to match the stylus and
the cartridge !!! The wrong setting is very bad.

To get the weight adjusted correctly, do the following.

a) Check the cartridge and stylus (needle) specifications, on
the WEB if necessary.

A typical tracking weight is between 0.9 grams to 1.5 grams,
but this very much depends on the needle geometry. To much
weight will damage the needle and the record, but

so will too little, because the needle will not stay on the
surface, skipping or mistracking on loud passages.

Note that the tracking acceleration is proportional to the
the square root of the loudness, multiplied by the frequency
squared. So if the tracking force is too low, the needle will
bounce over high frequencies and damage the record as
well as the needle's tip.

2) Once you know the correct force for your needle, adjust
the rear weight for ZERO force, such that the needle just
floats weightlessly in the air. If your turn-table has an anti-
skating adjustment, set that to zero as well.

3) At this point the tone-arm should be totally weightless,
and should neither touch the plater nor swing up/down
by itself. It should float halfway.

4) A this point, adjust the rear weight's dial (not the weight) to
read zero. Note that the dial will slide, while you hold the
weight still. You have now calibrated the tone-arm's zero

5) Now, adjust the weight (with the dial) to read the desired
tracking force, for example 1.25 grams.

6) Now adjust the anti-skating dial to the same number as
the rear weight. This setting compensates for the radial
(towards the center) component of the friction vector,
caused by the needle riding on the record groove, at some
specific (average) tone-arm angle.

7) Your tone arm is now balanced, and you should not
touch it after this, accept for minor adjustments.

For brand new records, you may lighten the tone-arm
by 10%. For old records, you can make it a little heavier.
Similarly, you can adjust the anti-skating to prevent a
record from skipping, but a bad record should be played
only once (and stored on your computer).

8) For some tone-arms and cartridges, the cartridge pitch
(up/down angle) is also adjustable. This requires a special
jig or gauge, supplied by the cartridge manufacturer.

The pitch can be adjusted either by the use of screws or
wedges, and by lowering / raising the rear gimble. On my
Technics SL 1200, the gimble elevation is adjustable with
a large ring, and my SURE V15 cartridge came with a guage
for adjusting it correctly.

9) It may also be possible to adjust the cartridge's yaw and
radius, but all of these adjustments should only be done
using the correct gauges and by strictly following the
cartridge installation manual.

10) NONE of these adjustments should effect the tone-arm
cueing or return process. There should be plenty of
clearence if the cueing mechanism is working properly,
except, perhaps, for the gimble elevation, if the cartridge
is unusually tall.

11) Is the cuing mechanism (i.e. the tone-arm lifter)
mechanical or hydraulic ?

Is it the lift consistent or does the tone-arm drop down
with time?

Does the tone-arm move parallel to the plater, or does the
stylus height change with tone-arm position (yaw)

You are looking for a mechanical defect in the cuing

12) How much over all lift do you get between the down position
and the up position? This should be at least 8 to 15mm

If the cuing mechanism is worn out, it may not move enough.

If it starts too low, it may move enough but not raise the
needle enough to clear the record.

If the cartridge is tracking too low, you may have to
remove some wedges or spacers between the cartridge
and the head, or lift the rear gimble if it is adjustable, or
get a different tone-arm head, that matches the cartridge

Finally as silly as this sounds, make sure that the
platter is fully dropped and properly engaged. If the
plater is too high, for what ever reason, this would also
cause the needle to drag.

Also make sure that the rubber mat on the plater is the
right one and that it is not too thick.


installation manual.

Jul 02, 2008 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

Aiwa LX770 Turntable won't start

It's a bit after Jim's post, however I had what appears to have been the same problem with my LX770 after it had been stored in the loft for quite a few years. I found the problem to be caused by the tone arm mechanisms stalling - The band that was associated with lifting the arm had turned to a black gunge and was not allowing the motor to rotate, also the motor associated with moving the arm backwards and forwards was struggling to turn. I cleaned the tone lifting pulleys and replaced with a small elastic band (for a temporary fix). This was a little fiddly as you have to take off a spring and a couple of gears to get the new band in place. I cleaned the runners and cleaned off the grease on the worm gears associated with the arm tracking (as I suspected it may be more viscus than originally installed), lightly oiled the tone arm tracking gears. It still seamed to take an amount of helping the tracking arm gears until they were able to move freely. With the tone arm mechanisms working properly the whole unit now seams to be working.
Top tips if you attempt this: WARNING - If the unit is plugged in, the transformer and high voltage wires are live regardless of whether the on button is on or off on the front of the record deck. PLEASE do not take any of my comments as recommendation you should ever do anything with the unit plugged in! Remove the little stylus carrier before you start taking the player to pieces - saves damaging it! Remove the record mat and aluminium platter before turning the unit upside down. Manually push the tone arm to about 0.5cm from its furthest travel - so you can remove the tone arm mechanism plate. May be a little stiff as the wires have to slide of the pulleys for the tone arm to be pushed. To access the tone arm mechanisms, remove the main bottom plate (and greasy spring), then undo the screws which hold on the rear undertray. With the decks buttons toward you, you should then be able to lift the rear tray slightly and tilt the tray towards you to expose the tone arm mechanisms. You shouldn't need to remove the circuit board with the control buttons on the front of the unit.
After getting it going, I found that I needed a Phono preamp to get the signal strength necessary to use the deck for transferring vinyl to my PC.
Good luck

Oct 20, 2007 | Audio Players & Recorders

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