Blown audiopipe 12 inch sub TS-PI12w pretty sure it's the voice coil.

You have a case of a blown sub. You will need a recone kit. You ca send it in to a company like fix my speaker or google recone kits for Power Acoustik FUBAR. May be cheaper just to get another sub.

Honestly man it sounds like you have burned up the voice coils inside the only way to fix it is to take it to a place where they specialize in fixing car subs.. And to be honest 80% of the time its just cheaper to go buy a new Sub. Sorry to hear that i know they arent cheap i burned up the voice coils in my 2 15" Kicker Comp CVR's and they wanted over 140$ to fix each one. And well to be honest after they tear off the factory glue whos to tell how long thiers will last. Hope this helps Dont forget to give me a good vote even though im sure you didnt want to hear that...

conect one of the positive terminal from the sub directli to one chanel of the amp, and do the same with the negative,and do the same with the others terminals from the sub conect to the other chanel

Nice sub, i have 2 308d4s in my car. Okay this sub is a dual coil 2 ohm. so to get best bang for your buck you'll want a 2 channel amp and bridge it. Your sub is 400 watts RMS, So you'll want an amp that has the same rating. I'd recommend the pioneer GM-5400t. Then wire your voice coils in parallel, and bridge your amp, you'll get 380 watts RMS, which is perfect for this sub. If you have questions on wiring or anything you can just ask. thanks, i hope this helps

dude TRUST me what you are using and have setup already is plenty..ONE TIP...of all things anyoine ever needs to worry about is the R...M....S power rating...the PEAK means NOTHING! its safe and fine to use what you got.

Hello css42103,

You did not specify the impedance or the model of your Audiopipe replacement woofer but if it is the TS-V6 DVC 6.5", then the impedance of each voice coil is 4ohms. If you wired the coils in parallel, you now have a 2ohm load to the amp. At 2 ohms, the amp tries to produce more power, and even at moderate volume, can be driven into clipping causing distortion. Not good for the amp. Definitely not good for the woofer.

I'd try wiring the woofer coils in series and see if it stops cutting out.

Hope this helps.

Hello stingerman20,

Your Directed D2400 amp is CEA2006 Compliant. It is stable at 1ohm and will produce 1,200 watts into that load. So you want your subs wired as close to 1 ohm as possible.

The only 3500 watt Pioneer Premier series subs I could find were the models number TS-W3002D2 and TS-W3002D4 with dual 2ohm and dual 4ohm voice coils respectively. The wiring options for the D2's result in 0.5ohm (too low), 2 ohms, and 8ohms. Your best option would be the 2ohm configuration which would be voice coils in series and subs in parallel. Options for the D4's result in a 1ohm load and a 4ohm load. Your best option would be the 1ohm configuration which would be voice coils and subs parallel.

To see the wiring options, try Rockford-Fosgate's "wiring wizard".
Select 2 woofers and the appropriate voice coil impedance and quantity and click "search". It'll bring up all of the possible wiring configurations along with the final impedance load.

Hope this helps.

On the Sub you have 4 connectors, 2 for each voice coil... Run a jumper wire from One side of the sub to the other. Positive to negative so that now you have one set of connectors free. Doing this will make the sub able to handle more cause you're using both voice coils. Thats how i've always hooked mine up when i have duel voice coil and they always last a long time. If you're gonna bridge the amp, make sure its turned down for about 5 or 6 hours to let the sub break in.

Are they single or dual voice coil? Ohms?

First of all how many ohm's are each subwoofer rated at . Are the subwoofers dual voice coil or single voice coil. Once I know that I can help you. I think the JL amp is not recommended below a 2ohm load.