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Here are your Amana flash codes:
Steady On - Normal
Off Controller Failure
1 System Lockout
2 Pressure Sw stuck closed
3 Pressure SW Stuck Open
4 Open - High Limit
5 Flame sense without gas valve
6 Open rollout or open Fuse
7 low flame signal
8 Check igniter or improper ground
continuous flashing - reversed AC polarity
First unplug the unit......Take the front cover off, take the wire screen off where the front fan is there is 4 or 5 screws that hold the plate that was under the screen. The electric heating elements are under that plate between the evaporator coil and the front blower wheel. It will lift straight up and give you access to the elements. In the electric heating element area there is a limit switch with a red or black button in the center of it push it to reset the limit it is on the right hand side by the controls. I wish I could find a picture to show you but I couldn't find one. It is not easy to get to... Hope this helps.
You could have a high limit switch that has gone out or the heating element itself has burnt out. Both the heating element and high limit switch needs to be checked by a a/c tech due to both the location and the tools needed for the checks. The high limit switch is a safety device that prevents the unit from heating too much and possibly cause a fire. The possible cause for both of these problems is a blkockage of air flow through the system ( i.e. dirty filter, debris in the condensor coils) Good Luck on your repairs hope this has helped you some
Yes, look for manual resettable limits on your exchangers (where the flame goes into), or just check for continuity with meter. There is also an auxilary limit on exhanger cabinent, take those two wires off and plug in a paper clip, restart furnace, if it works replace the limit. You can do the same with the manual reset one, paper clip the two wires and bypass the limit. Don't leave this bypassed for long, it protects your furnace from fire hazard, replace asap.
I would check the house thermostat(and its wiring to the indoor unit), and if it's OK then check the heat transfer fluid diverter valve inside the indoor unit (should be sending the hot fluid through the big radiator (air exchanger)) until the surface temperature of the radiator is approximately 130 degrees F, then the fan control operates and the fan starts to blow hot air through your ductwork. My HTM is 26 years old and I've had many opportunities to "hone" its operation...