The black drive that is on top of the motor section has worn teeth, and I want to replace it. I think I can order a replacement part, but I am trying to figure out how the black gear rets removed from the top of the motor drive unit. Is there a screw hidden under the center? or is it just pressed down onto a shaft?
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Try taking the bowl off and pressing the safety switch with a screw driver. If the processor turns on then you have a problem with the bowl, if it doesn't turn on then the issue is inside of the food processor, and usually internal parts are not available.
If you can find your model & brand information off of the base of the food processor we can look up replacement parts for you.
hi if you still have problems email me and i will try and talk you through, it may be the belt (teeth worn out) or the pulley (same problem). the info given in your post is very vague. if its the teeth on either the belt or pulley there is a simple fix. remove bottom of base with screwdriver there should be screws under the feet of machine. use a bike valve screwdriver to remove the two remaining screws(depending on make and model) remove belt, put RUBBER BAND
I posted the reply pasted below on how to take the Bullet apart - really not difficult once you know where the hidden screws are apart. Once apart it easy to see where the power cable terminates and should be easily possible to connect in a new cable in its place.
Yes its easy to take the Magic Bullet apart.
1. First pry out the 4 black rubber feet on the base with small screwdriver and unscrew the 4 cross head screws revealed below.
2. Remove this black base to reveal the inner black base Unscrew the cable clamp - 2 screws and the 3 screws that retain the remaining black base to the body of the bullet - slide it off over the power cable.
3. Turn the bullet the proper way up and pry out the 3 white rubber bumpers with a screw driver blade that are set inside for the cup to rest on - each is located with two rubber pins. Once all 3 are removed you will reveal 3 more cross head screws - these countersunk - remove all 3 and then the internal motor will be free to lift out through the top of the Bullet casing.
4. Its possible to slip out the 3 white plastic sliders - taking care to note how they seat each on a small spring to cleanup both the slides and the sliders.
To re assemble step by step in reverse - noting to align the motor cable with the cutouts on the bullet base.
if its like mine the belt or pulley wear out mine took 8 years for it wear out. i couldnt find the parts so i took of the base(make sure its unplugged) remove the belt(hold one side of belt over the large cog and turn the cog, the belt should fall off) get a large rubber band (the width of the pulley)and twist the band over the pulley a number of times until it fits tightly over the pulley, replace belt and base and it should work. this will work if the belt or pulley teeth are worn my wife still cant beleive it worked
The shaft is spinning inside the sleeve. So is should not be hard to
remove. With a DLC-7SP, I grabbed the spindle with some pliers, channel
locks might do well and put a handle of a screwdriver between the pliers
and the top deck and pried. Second attempt and it pulled up easily.
Place the screwdriver beside one of the top deck screw covers to
transfer force directly to the motor. Otherwise top deck would probably
Clean the old shaft to remove any contamination.
New one can be driven on with a hammer and block of wood.
The problem is that the clutchdog, which is normally engaged by the peg on the liquidiser cover, is worn. Remove the top casing of the machine by removing the 3 screws and all of the outlet covers. Then unscrew the top of the gear box and prise open carefully with a screwdriver to expose the gears. The clutch dog can be unscrewed. Remove the spring that is on the outside of the gearbox and replace it on the inside of the gearbox so that it pulls the clutch dog down permanently. This then needs to be screwed back once the top of the gearbox has been screwed back together. Sounds complicated but it will be obvious when you try it. The machine will then turn the main attachment hub but will remain engaged as for later model machines. Hope this helps. John UK
OK this is the fix for the LC6200 that worked for me. Unscrew top cover (2 screws) then another screw holding internals to external case. Carefully remove safety switch lever (use long nose pliers from the top next to lever to squeeze plastic barb that holds the levers in to the plastic body). Remove all screws on the bottom. Open and undo the drive shaft pully nut clockwise. Pull out shaft and remove belt. Unscrew motor from chassis plate. From the bottom push out the plastic speed control dial with screwdriver. Remove motor and component boards. Check microswitches. Then remove diac DB3 and replace. Remove triac BT137 600v and replace. PS I used a 800v motorola MAC228 instead. Assemble in reverse. Good Luck. denisprod