Machine gets to warm in the box upto 60+ in the fresh food and 10+ in freezer. Does this at least once a week. Has a new control board in the back.

Open the fresh food door and hold the fresh food light switch closed while pressing the freezer temperature down key three times in a row. This must be done within 10 seconds.
Release the door switch.
The control will display PE to confirm entry into programming mode.
You need to confirm entry into programming mode by pressing the freezer down key once more.
The control should display zero on both led's.
Set the control to the correct code as shown on the model and serial number sticker in the fresh food section.
This is done by pressing the fresh food up and freezer up buttons until the correct code is displayed.
Once the desired program code is displayed, press the freezer down key until the program code begins flashing.
Once the programming code has been saved the programming mode can be exited by closing the fresh food door.

From what I remember a flashing 4 means "damper error". Send your model number found inside or on the outside of the fresh food section, The air damper is found between the freezer and fresh food section and regulates temperature in the fresh food section by opening wide for things that warm up your fresh food section example would be opening the door and letting warm air inside . The damper then closes to keep the right temperature. If you have questions please ask, Thanks Sea Breeze

Damper problem.
This ice box has a damper which is controlled by a thermostat. When the fresh side be warm that damper opens and allows cold air to enter the fresh food section. It must be gone out. it is what i would check.

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It is quite common for a refrigerator to begin the first signs of a defrost problems once he fresh Food section begins to warm. Auto Dampers are an additional component to check while searching for the true reason for Fresh Food compartment warming. First look inside the freezer compartment and and see if there is a layer of frost building on the rear wall. If yes you will need to manually defrost unless you have anothr place to store the freezer goods. Unplug refrigerator and then remove the rear panel of freezer to get a good look at the snow covering your evaporator coils. Defrost with a hair drier. Now we need to look for the cause Auto Damper, Click here for the photo location of these parts=> MSD2756GEW Controls Section the adaptive defrost control is most likely the problem and is listed in the photo as location 13 and the auto damper

61005971 Damper Control Assembly

61005988 Adaptive Defrost Assembly

The Auto Damper model refrigerator has two controls and both have capillary sensing.

The Auto Damper controls the fresh food temperature and the Freezer Temperature
Control guides the freezer temperature. The fresh food compartment temperature is maintained by a damper assembly located at the back of the temperature control housing. Changes in air temperature cause the damper door to open and close. A control rod and gear connect the fresh
food control knob to the damper control.

Turning the fresh food control knob to the coldest position increases the flow of freezer air into the fresh food section. The freezer compartment temperature control warms at a faster rate and cools at a slower rate, increasing the compressor run time necessary to maintain a satisfied freezer temperature control.

Click Here=> Here is how to test a Maytag MSD2756GEW Auto Damper

There is always other possiilities but I see two other things that may cause this and that is the defrost heater with defrost Thermostat=> 61006199 Defrost Heater Assembly

I know this was long and possibly confusing but please ask if you should have questions or one on one assistance, Thanks, Sea Breeze

What is the temperature in the cabin when it isn't occupied??
If the temperature in cabin drops to or below 55 degrees, then the thermostat that controls the machine, being in the fresh food compartment will not cycle the machine.
If you warm up the cabin for a decent period of time, and it fails to run, you will need to replace the main cold control.
Without the approx. age, the style of the machine, top, bottom or SXS style and where the temperature controls are located. Both in Fresh food compartment, one each in freezer and fresh food area, this is the best I can give you.
Please, in the future, give as many details about what machine we are working on to give you the best possible answers. Jack
P.S. is it possible someone shut off the power that runs the machine when you left ???

First of all, before you do anything, clean the coils under the refrigerator. I couldn't tell you how many refrigerators I've 'fixed' that needed nothing more than the coils cleaned. Dirty coils can cause a multitude of problems, many of them with the exact same symptoms that would be expected when refrigerant components fail. Dirt is the #1 enemy of any refrigeration unit.

If that doesn't help, since both sides of the refrigerator get warm before the compressor kicks back on, I'd suspect the fresh food temperature control thermostat. Not an easy fix for the average homeowner unless you've got specific skills in appliance repair.

Before you do anything, try this. Turn the fresh food thermostat all the way up, the set the freezer setting at a higher than normal setting. The way the system works is that the fresh food thermometer turns the compressor on and off and the freezer control simply controls how much of the cold air from the freezer is diverted to the fresh food compartment.

If you turn the fresh food thermostat higher, the compressor will run longer and adjusting the freezer control to a higher setting will allow less cold air into the fresh food compartment, forcing the compressor to run longer in order to cool it to the thermostat setting.

If the settings have to be abnormally high, this is a workaround, rather than a fix. To get a permanent fix, you'll probably have to replace the fresh food control thermostat.

I hope this was helpful to you or to anyone reading it.

Find the return air It can't come in if it can't get out. also if you were checking it with the freezer door open you will not feel the air. Just in case i have done that myself. if all air ducts are open and it's getting o I should be 20 in fresh food with the control on 9.

And you are posting because,.......????? You are looking for a second opinion? Don't like the repair estimate?
1. Your freezer is not working great. If it is frosting up, frozen packages will soon beging to soften also.
2. All of the cooling takes place in the freezer compartment. A fan blows air over the coils in the freezer, and directs some of it into the fresh foods side to cool it. When the coils become blocked with frost, the air can no longer flow into the fresh foods compartment. Result is warming of FF area. You may also see freezing in the bottom FF bin, water dispenser not working, FRZ section warm, etc.
3. Manually defrosting the coils will temporarilly solve your problem, but it will reappear in a few days to a week or so. (depending on door openings, ambient temp, etc)
4. The motherboard controls the defrost interval and (although not the most common) certainly can be a cause of defrost failure. If a qualified servicer diagnosed it as such, it most likely is just that.

The fresh food compartment is cooled by air being blown from the freezer compartment into the fresh food compartment. Something is restricting that air flow which causes your fresh food compartment to stay warm.

There is a panel, or door if you will, that separates the freezer and fresh food compartments. The freezer temp control determines how much cold air is allowed to escape into the fresh food compartment by opening or closing this panel.

If the panel is restricted from moving (stuck closed, for example), the freezer will get VERY cold while the fresh food compartment will be warm.

Try thoroughly defrosting the refrigerator. Possibly an accumulation of ice is preventing the panel from moving and/or is restricting air flow from the freezer to the fresh food compartment. It's a free fix and may solve your problem altogether.

If that doesn't help, or helps only temporarily, you may have a problem with panel itself or the linkage that connects it to the control mechanism. Unless you're skilled in appliance repair, checking and repairing these components will require the help of a service technician

Hope this was helpful. Good Luck.

The adaptive defrost on your model is controled by the motherboard, but I don't think that is your problem. If the freezer is too cold and the fresh foods is too warm, check the air dampener. It is a small duct door in the very back top left of the fresh foods section.