I need to replace the connecting rod,cylinder sleeve,and eccentric bearing assembly on a craftsman model no. 919.165050

It should not be too difficult to replace the entire rod assembly including the valve rod eccentric rod and eccentric crank. THe crankpin in the drive wheel holds the eccentric crank to the wheel at the top there should be another screw freeing the valve rod and crank in one piece. two screws and 10 minutes you should be done. I am basing this on other Lionel locomotives including the Southern Crescent 8702, 736 and 1656

chances are axles could be slightly bent , simple fix is to have the arms made adjustable by cutting,threading and sleeve as like adjustable tie rods on a car.
Tie Rod Assembly with Clevis Ends Tie Rod Assemblies Anchors Anchor Bolts...

Here is the procedure:-

1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.



2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.



3. Remove oil pump and strainer.

TIMING GEAR COVER

1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.



2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS

1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
   

Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.

1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.



2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.



3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.



4. Remove injection pump drive gear.



5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.

CAMSHAFT

1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.



2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.

PISTON & CONNECTING ROD

1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.



2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.



3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.

CRANKSHAFT

1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.



2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.



3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/uttamjeet_2f3adc18600f8ede

Bummer. Usually you need to drop the oil pan, pull the rod and piston out, replace the sleeve, and use a ring comprssor to get the piston back into the cylinder and then put it all back together EXACTLY how it came apart including position on the sleeves, rods and bearings. I have not done this on a VW but I do not see this being much different than any other car that I have worked on. No matter what it will be a huge pain in the ***.

No on the torch, it might warp the shaft. The use of an arbor press us highly advised

Let me give you some info. I guess you are talking about the bearing next to the fly wheel. The crankshaft has to come completely out. the crank can not be removed until you have removed the rods from the crank shaft pin. Most of the time if a bearing goes bad you need to replace the rods and crank shaft pin. I 've never done it but if you can get the rods out of the way the crank will come out. My recommendation would be, remove the fly wheel, remove the inner cooler, remove any small tubing lines, Remove the front frame cover, Remove the 2 bolts holding the crank pin bushing (don't forget to lock wire these bolts back together during assembly), Remove the cylinder, head, piston and rod together as a unit. Don't let the piston come out of the cylinder or move around to much unless replacing the rods. Once you get both LP and HP cylinders, heads etc off you can remove the front bearing cap exposing the bearing and a snap ring. Take a piece of wood or brass and from the crank shaft counter weight side (rod side)knock the crank shaft toward the fly wheel side until the snap ring can be removed. Once the snap ring is removed knock the crankshaft back toward the rod side and continue until out of the bearing races. Then remove the crank. The outer bearing can then be pressed off with the retainer at one time. Remove the sleeve. To remove the large bearing(back bearing) you need to be very careful and cut it off. Don't mess up the crank shaft. I've tried several ways to remove the back bearing but the easiest is cutting it off. To answer your question yes you have to disassemble to change bearings.

There should be no play up and down. Any play is coming from a worn out needle bearing on the crank. A bit side to side is okay and normal. The crank will need to come out then it gets pressed apart and fitted with a new bearing. Price out the difference in cost of fixing the crank verses getting a new $170 crank assembly.What probably happened is a broken piston ring extended into a cylinder port and the piston against the ring is what gouged the cylinder and head. Please rate my answer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Air-compressor-Parts/Model-919165020/0247/0703000 This is the exploded view that I used.

67 head 65 gasket 64 reed valve plate 63 ring,this one goes under the reed valve plate 62 screw that goes thru the 61 piston 60is a ring that sets on the top of the connecting rod screw the piston with the ring into the top of the connecting rod then take the connecting rod end cap off and cover the studs with some rubber tubing.This will protect the crankshaft when you push connecting rod and piston assembly in to the sleeve that is seated in the block.The ring should be flexible enough to push into the sleeve,if not a bit of oil should help.Guide the connecting rod on to the the crank shaft.I hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.com

Owner's Manual - CRAFTSMAN Air compressor 919165020, 919165050, 919165090, 919165230, 919167330, 919165221, 919165070, 919165310, 919164200, 919165060, 919165300, 919152922, 919165250, 919186430, 919155613, 919164150, 919165030, 919165130, 919165500, MG2-OILFREE, 919165110, 919167200, 919165000 - ManageMyLife.com

Ok, the post shows 2 model numbers, so I will provide links for both. Be sure to only pay attention to the model number you actually have.

For a model C3151, an oilless compressor, the only way to get the connecting rod is by buying a piston kit, there is no individual replacement. KK-4835 is the part number and it runs about 50.00.
It can be purchased here.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/piston-cylinder-and-ring-replacement-kit-p-58708.html


Now if you have a C3551, an oiled compressor, the entire Eccentric Rod Assembly will have to be replaced. The part number is Z-D22207 and it runs about 100.00.
It can be purchased here.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/assembly-conrod-eccentri-p-62701.html

I hope this helps.

It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods

1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
   1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
   2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
   3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
   4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
   5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge
      
      
   6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert
      
   
   
2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston
   
   
4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer
   
   
5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
11. Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).

OHV Engines CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS AND TIMING ASSEMBLY

1. Install the camshaft.
2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.
3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.

CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).

OHC Engines CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.

Engine Covers and Components Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle. Engine Start-up and Break-in STARTING THE ENGINE Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.

1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF. WARNING
   Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
   
3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
5. At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed.