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Hello, if you mean the motor runs fine without the drum in place then it could be that the drum is not properly seated on the small motor shaft, also alot of times i see that the motor runs fine but once the drum is in place it skips and does not move due to the gear and shaft inside the motor being slightly craked or broken. If the drum is seated properly than the motor must be replaced.
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This happened with my humidifier as well. When the mineral deposits build up to the point where the drum binds, and is difficult to turn, the gears on the motor will strip. The clicking you hear are the ends of the stripped teeth of the motor gear rubbing up against the mating gears. Suggest you pull the motor - just remove the wire nuts from the control unit (replace wire nut over the exposed 24 Volt wire on each as you do this), then loosen and remove the nuts on the inside of the unit holding the motor. A number of manufacturers offer 'clock motors' than have a 1 rpm speed, and flat slot to receive the drum spindle. I used a Loeb motor which is commonly available in hardware stores, and had to insert a couple of small washers as standoffs, so the coupler was the right distance from the drum spindle. Reattach the controller wires, and you're done.
You may need a HRV/ERV installed. Depends on your indoor air quality(IAQ). It may be allergies. I would talk to a reputable heating/cooling contractor in your area to evaluate your system, recommendations.
hook up the new transformer to the white (common) from the blower motor, and the lead from the blower motor hooked up to the heat term on the board. (just cut the wires and wire nut all three together)
Humidifiers usually are wired up to ONLY come on when the Heat is on and the fan running....anyother time you check it it will not be powered or wet...turn your heat on , wait till the fan comes on...then turn up your humidistat you should hear a click if its a flow through type and water should start flowing from the top...or if its tyhe drum style with the sponge...you should see it then turning...if it doesnt turn the pad/spindle may not be installed properly...if only fits one way
theholts220 - Sounds like they needed to install a bit larger transformer . You can also buy a A 50 Sensing relay that attaches to the wires for your motor and when you turn on the furnace it will allow the power to go to the humidistat. Very strange though they do not use a lot of power. Check and make sure the wires are not pinched or touching metal somewhere.
TLuzzo - The humidistat seems to be working when you turn it down. The wires for the solenoid should be hooked up to your furnace circuit board. The instruction manual will tell you where. If you dont have a spot on your circut board the A 50 sensing reley is they way to go. They are inexpensive
When your unit is on normal the outside unit works and the inside only the fan runs. your heat pump does not remove any humidity when it operates so the installation cotractor did not wire it to operate then. you can change the wiring on the humidifier to operate all the time by wiring it to the fan (g) terminal then it should work just turn it all the way to the lowest humidity when you are in cooling mode.
THE MOTOR ONLY TURNS THE SPONGE DRUM AT MAYBE 10X'S PER MINUTE. THIS IS A BY-PASS TYPE HUMIDIFIER THAT RELIES ON YOU FURNACE BLOWER MOTOR TO SUPPLY AIR ACCROSS THE SPONGE MEDIA.
NOTICE THE 5"-7" ROUND HOLE MUST BE DUCTED TO THE PLENUM OR RETURN AIR. (IF MOUNTED ON THE PLENUM, THE HOLE HAS TO BE DUCTED TO THE RETURN AIR, AND VISA-VERSA.)
CAUTION!!!IF YOU HAVE CENTRAL AIR?
A "DAMPER" MUST BE INSTALLED AND KEPT CLOSED THROUGH-OUT THE "COOLING SEASON".
SERIOUS DAMAGE TO YOUR COMPRESSOR CAN RESULT FROM TOO COLD OF AIR ... CIRCULATING AND "BY-PASSING YOUR EVAPORATOR COIL".