Spin cycle begins, basket rolls, slipping....

No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.

Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.

Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.

Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)

Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.

On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.

LID SWITCH TEST- next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block

If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.

Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in Whirlpool Kenmore...

No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.



Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.



Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.



Or try the hand test:



If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.



- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.



next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.



Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

No spin, or lite spin try these:



Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.



Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand.



Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.



Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

No spin, or lite spin try these:



Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.



Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand.



Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.



Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN

Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand.



Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.



Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

No spin, or lite spin try these:



Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.



Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.



Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)



Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.



On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.

The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.



Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand.



Your next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block



If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.



Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washerhttp://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiNBy the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.

Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.

Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.

Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)

Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.

On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.

LID SWITCH TEST- next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block

If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.

Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!








Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in Whirlpool Kenmore...

No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.

Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.

Check the clutch, motor coupler, brake assembly, transmission, and mode shifter or actuator. one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.

Or try the hand test:

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.

Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)

Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.

On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.

LID SWITCH TEST- next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block

If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.

Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!










Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in Whirlpool Kenmore...

The F34 code normally only occurs when you are trying to run the CLEAN WASHER cycle. The washer should be completely empty of laundry when you are attempting to start this cycle. If the washer is empty and you are trying to run this clean washer cycle then you could have a friction problem with the spin basket that is causing the F34 code. Try turning the spin basket by hand with the washer empty and dry. The basket should turn relatively easily. If the basket will not spin easily you could have a problem with the bearing in the back of the outer tub or you could have an item stuck between the spin basket and the tub inside the washer.

Hey Joe,
Let’s check to see if the wash basket will rotate CCW in Spin Only Cycle with no clothes in the wash basket
1. Open the lid and rotate the wash basket by hand Counter Clockwise, CCW. The wash basket should rotate freely with no restriction. The wash basket will not rotate Clockwise, CW by hand.

2. Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. Raise the top of the machine to observe the wash basket and tumbler action described in step 3. (See page 33 of the Service Manual for putty knife insertion point).

3. With the top raised start a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket, observe the wash basket it should begin to rotate CCW does it?. Watch the tumblers, they should not rotate in spin cycle (maybe ½ turn at the start of spin cycle and that’s all). If the tumblers rotate while the wash basket is rotating you have a clutch malfunction. If the basket does spin CCW and the tumblers are rotating then you have a broken clutch spring. Let do those checks and observations and see what the next troubleshooting steps will be. Rich