The blade is slipping because the rubber around the top wheel is broken need to find a new pelt or something to work

Blades slip off the wheels on these saws is because one or both wheels are not turning true to the blade. This can be caused by:
- Missing or worn tires on the wheels. The rubber tires have to be on the wheels and they have to be in good condition.
- Occasionally the screws holding the sprocket on the driven wheel come loose and the wheel will wobble causing the blade to come off.
- Both wheels ride on bearings and shafts that, if seized, worn or broken, will let the wheel wobble enough that the blade won't stay on.
- If the blade is stretched or twisted from use it won't stay on very well.

Possible causes:
- Tires: If the tire(s) on the front or rear pulleys are worn, torn or have chuncks out of them, the blade can slip off.
- Pulley(s) out of line: If either or both pulleys are out of alignment the blade will work it's way off. This could be caused by a worn pulley hub; a worn or broken pulley axel; or worn, broken or frozen bearings where the axels turn. On the drive pulley this could include the bearings on the drive shaft or the boss where the bearings fit into.
- Blade: If there are any kinks or slight bends in the metal they could cause the blade to work off the pulley.

Assuming the wheel tires are in good condition and the blade is in good condition, the only thing left is method of installation. Make sure the tensioner is disengaged and put the blade on starting with the blade guard (long thin channel at top), then around the wheels, then finally in the block guides ( the two small guides at the bottom. Make sure the set screws on the guide are loose as well). Next tighten the block guide set screws and then make sure the blade hasn't shifted. It should be sitting centered on the wheel rubber all the way around. If everything looks good, engage the tensioner and test run. On a side note, the wheel tires have small notches that work like gears that often pop up, make sure they are all pushed in properly. Good Luck!

you may need to replace the tire around each wheel. also turn the knob in and out and watch that it is actually moving the wheel

Hi, replacing the blade assm. will cost you more then a new one.

it sounds to me that its riped the drive dog out of the blades i know the black wheel is striped off, i gees the lad put a house brick into it and span it up if thees blenders are left not in use for a time they can seize up and most people never think to turn the rubber wheel to see if the blades still go around first thats how they get striped out, sorry im not much help here

The piece that you need is referred to as the coupler. The coupler is a breakway part that is designed to shear and/or wear down in the event that the blender is overloaded. This is to avoid damage to the motor.

The coupler may be purchased individually and is an easy repair that can be done at home. You may purchase the part and access step-by-step replacement instructions at the following link:

http://www.mendingshed.com/kacoupling.html

With saw unpluged!!!!! open top wheel gaurd.Spin wheel by hand while moving the adjuster knob on back of the machine. As you turn both at the same time the blade will trac either the front or back of the wheel. Move the knob (while spinning the wheel) until the blade is tracking in the middle of the tire. (rubber strip around the wheel)

sounds like a shear pin either on the motor or the blade assembly. If you put the blender on low without the cannister on top touch the gear on top of the unit and see if the gear slips or stops. Use a pencil or something..Not your finger. If it stoops then the pin is broken at the motor. If not, it is broken at the blade unit.

Hope this helps
Kurt

my blender jar is broken. I need to replace it