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Pressure keeps dropping but never goes below bout 0.8 of a bar?

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Should stlll work ok at that. Most have a 0.5 bar limit but a few will work below
Check the pressure relief valve for water coming out where it exits to the outside

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

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Vailant ecotec plus 837 - Water pressure and temp is too high


Pressure inside the tank will rise along with the water temperature. As the water inside cools the pressure will wane until the heating element turns on and reheats the water with a subsequent rise in pressure. Running the hot water at the same time will draw heat energy from the boiler and lower the internal temp and pressure as well.

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My worcester bosch 24i junior pressure keeps dropping if i have heating off for an hour i have to top up boiler and reset also when i have heating on the pressure jumps right up to over 4.0bar


When water is heated it expands. To deal with this all boilers are fitted with a small expansion vessel which is like a reservoir which holds the excess water.

This expansion vessel is like a balloon in a metal pot. When the water goes in the metal pot the baloon squashes a bit to make room for the extra volume of water. When it cools the balloon pushes the water back into the heating system.

What has happened is your expansion vessel no longer works. When the water heats up there is nowhere for it to go so the pressure jumps up to 4 bar. The Worcester boiler lets high pressure water escape (most boiler allow this to go through the safety valve at say 3.5 bar).

When the water cools the pressure drops very low as the volume of water contracts.

The problem is your expansion vessel - normally a little red painted metal cylinder inside the boiler.

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I have a worcester 28cdi combi boiler. The pressure keeps going up yo 3 bar when the heating is on, and venting of via the pressure valve. When the boiler cools down the pressure drops to zero, and I have...


Your boiler has an expansion vessel that is like a bladder full of air. Yours has lost it's air pressure. Check your manual for this vessel and where the valve is to re-inflate it and what pressure to inflate to. It should have a simple tyre valve, pump it back up (usually to about 1 bar after releasing the water pressure) and should be all fixed. If you can't re-inflate the bladder is holed and the expansion vessel will need replacing.

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Combi boiler loosing water pressure in heating system no visible leaks i have heating pipes under a concreat floor carpets not damp and no con- densation on my windows the pressure drop is over...


There is a 15mm pipe from the pressure relief valve which should so through to the outside. These valves are prone to leak after time. Look at the end [outside] of this pipe. Wet = leak from valve

Dec 20, 2009 | Water Heaters

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The pressure drops very slowly over a month then needs topping uo from the filling loop to 1.5 bar. when the heating is on it goes upto 3 bar. the pipe outside is slightly damp. it was fine during the...


Sounds like the expansion vessel in the boiler has lost pressure or is faulty. If you have a tyre pressure gauge, locate the expansion vessl and check the pressure via the schraeder valve. It should be around 1.5 bar. If there is no pressure you can re pressurise it with a bicycle pump. Should it not pressurise then you will need a new one. The pressure relief pipework outside is damp because the system is over pressurising at relieving pressure at 3 bar. This obviously causes a system pressure drop. You can install a pressure vesel into the heating return pipework should accessing the boiler be difficult.

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How do I re-pressurise the boiler via the temporary filling loop


you may need to hook a hose to the drain and to a spigot depending on your water pressure in your home and back feed the unit to desired pressur,, does t have an auto matic feed valve or just a shut off valve,,

Jun 15, 2009 | Water Heaters

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I can't turn the bar pressure up on my Vaillant VCW 221 Boiler


on the pipework below there may be a silver braided hose with one or two valves on the end. turn the valve(s) so the handle is inline with the pipe this will allow water from the mains supply into the heating circuit , remember to keep an eye on the pressure gauge. fill the system to 1bar cold then shut down the valve(s). turn on the boiler and it should be ok, if you lose pressure again then you may have a leak somewhere which needs to be found.

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Combi Boiler pressure gauge reading 0, and radiator half on!


The first thing you need to do is to put some more water into your heating system. This is usually done by allowing water from your (pressurised) domestic cold water supply to flow into the system: On older boilers, this is done with a connection (often made with a removable hose) on the pipework just outside the boiler. Newer boilers may have a built-in connection with some sort of removable link (sometimes looks like a plastic key).

Once you've got the boiler up to working pressure (typically about 1 bar - 15 psi), you should be able to bleed your upstairs radiator properly.

This may be all it takes, though the pressure excursions you're getting when you run the hot tap suggest there may be another problem. See what happens to the pressure as the boiler heats up and cools down. There really ought to be very little pressure difference between the two conditions. If you see significant changes, this usually means that the "pressure vessel" (or in hydraulic terms, system accumulaor) has lost its air charge.

The pressure vessel is a metal container inside the boiler, usually painted in red enamel. Somewhere near the top, you will find a schrader valve (like the one on a car tyre), and you can use this along with a tyre pump to replenish the air in the top of the vessel. This will reduce your pressure transients for a while, but you need to keep an eye on it. If the problem returns, you probably need to replace the pressure vessel (or clag another one into the plumbing alongside the boiler).

A.

Feb 03, 2009 | ACCO Brands Water Heaters

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