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I have a customer who has a stock pot range, single 18 " burner, with 2 rings, natural gas fired. Unknown brand, the name plate is missing.
When turning on the burners, the pilot goes out. Then the burners do not ignite. If the burners are turned on slowly, the pilot flame is reduced in size. If hte burners do light, the flame is not as high as the same appliance next in line. The flex supply line seems to be clean as does the regulator, the the 3/4 pipe in the appliance, the manual valves and the burner rings themselves. The regulator was replaced a few months ago, with proper part., Any ideas?
I did, When I installed the regulator, I turned it upside down so it would not plug with grease. The bottom, which was the top is clean, no grease. The top, which was the bottom, is greasy. I have had regulators plug w/grease, and usually that is the cause of the problem I am having. I have also had an intermittant gas flow if the regulator vent is plugged. I have also had a similar problem with thermostat valves like the BJWA. If it is temporarily cured by thumping on the valve w/a wrench or screwsriver, it is dirt in the valve. This one has me stumped. I have had 4 & 6 burner ranges open top burners with the tubes plugged with grease. If someone cannot tell me the problem, I will just replace the regulator and the flex supply line.
Do you of any boards that discuss commercial gas appliances?
Fireguy01.I did, When I installed the regulator, I turned it upside down so it would not plug with grease. The bottom, which was the top is clean, no grease. The top, which was the bottom, is greasy. I have had regulators plug w/grease, and usually that is the cause of the problem I am having. I have also had an intermittant gas flow if the regulator vent is plugged. I have also had a similar problem with thermostat valves like the BJWA. If it is temporarily cured by thumping on the valve w/a wrench or screwsriver, it is dirt in the valve. This one has me stumped. I have had 4 & 6 burner ranges open top burners with the tubes plugged with grease. If someone cannot tell me the problem, I will just replace the regulator and the flex supply line.
Do you of any boards that discuss commercial gas appliances?
I replaced the regulator in October, so I do not think that is the problem. I do have regulators in stock, so I will replace that regulator tommorrow AM. I just received a gas pressure tester. You cannot have to many tools. I will compare the pressure readings between both bean cookers. I do not know the pressures needed for the different appliances, but will get that from the natural gas suppliers.
I am not an appliance repair person, fire suppression is my trade. We do have an appliance repair shop, but they do not work on commercial applainces. So by default, my customers call on me to repair thier gas appliances.
Thanks for helping me.
FireguyI replaced the regulator in October, so I do not think that is the problem. I do have regulators in stock, so I will replace that regulator tommorrow AM. I just received a gas pressure tester. You cannot have to many tools. I will compare the pressure readings between both bean cookers. I do not know the pressures needed for the different appliances, but will get that from the natural gas suppliers.
I am not an appliance repair person, fire suppression is my trade. We do have an appliance repair shop, but they do not work on commercial applainces. So by default, my customers call on me to repair thier gas appliances.
I just go back from my Mexican resturant w/the bean cooker problem. The gas test port was frozen in place and would not come out. I removed the center burner ring and the gas valve. I plugged my pressure gauge in and found there was only slightly more than 2 "WC. I lite the pilot and turned on the outer ring. The gauge spiked to 8 " WC, then dropped to 3 "WC. I adjusted the regulator to 5" WC and assmbled the burners. I then had a good flame, steady w/a good soft blue color. The flame was not dancing, but steady. I think my new tool was a good investment. Next time I install a regulator I will check the gas pressure.
Thanks for the help.
FireguyI just go back from my Mexican resturant w/the bean cooker problem. The gas test port was frozen in place and would not come out. I removed the center burner ring and the gas valve. I plugged my pressure gauge in and found there was only slightly more than 2 "WC. I lite the pilot and turned on the outer ring. The gauge spiked to 8 " WC, then dropped to 3 "WC. I adjusted the regulator to 5" WC and assmbled the burners. I then had a good flame, steady w/a good soft blue color. The flame was not dancing, but steady. I think my new tool was a good investment. Next time I install a regulator I will check the gas pressure.
Thanks for the help.
Fireguy
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fireguy,is the unit lp or nat. gas?I work for hobart and i service these as well.right off the bat i would think its the regulator or vent plugged.what i would check is the gas pressure,with and without all the aplliance that share the main gas line turned on and see if theres a dramatic drop in pressure.i would check and clean all the burners/pilots.the quick disconnect could also be a problem but that would be my last resort.its funny i just serviced a ruby tuesdays rest. and had this similiar problem but it ended out to be the pilot solenoid.any ? let me know.fireguy,is the unit lp or nat. gas?I work for hobart and i service these as well.right off the bat i would think its the regulator or vent plugged.what i would check is the gas pressure,with and without all the aplliance that share the main gas line turned on and see if theres a dramatic drop in pressure.i would check and clean all the burners/pilots.the quick disconnect could also be a problem but that would be my last resort.its funny i just serviced a ruby tuesdays rest. and had this similiar problem but it ended out to be the pilot solenoid.any ? let me know.
propane pressure should be at least 10 inches of water colum,natrual gas should be 3.5 inches.propane pressure should be at least 10 inches of water colum,natrual gas should be 3.5 inches.
fireguy glad you solved it.i work for hobart and i can assist you in the future need be.can you rate as solved.thanks.fireguy glad you solved it.i work for hobart and i can assist you in the future need be.can you rate as solved.thanks.
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Use a manometer to insure lp gas pressure is correct. The regulator for the stove may need adjusting. The air mixture adjustment may not be correct for PL as well.
Are the burners uniform around top? Pictures show that there is a slot on one side. The tech is probably right.. You are not the only person complaining about this. Call back and see if there is a different burner that will fit you stove.
Hi. Usually when this occurs on a brand new unit the user is using a natural gas configured range on LPG. You may have to get a NG to LPG conversion kit to reconfigure the regulator. On most newer regulators it is a matter of unswcreing the plastic side cap and flipping the inner plunger over. The conversion process is in the installation instructions. Additionally the Bake and Broil burners for the oven will also need adjusted per instructions. There are usually orifices in a package in a NEW range for the conversion of the cook top burner control valves. Then the air gap on the side of each burner gas tube will need to be adjusted by losening the screw on the side of the burner gas tube and adjusting the airflow until you get a nice 2 color blue flame. Tighten the screws after you make the air adjustment.
If you do NOT have the manual please respond with a model number so I can try and find you one.
Is this on LP or Natural gas? If LP was it converted to LP? In any event,The air shutter must be adjusted on the gas burner tube. You need more air. The valve orifice may also need adjusting.
It's not intended to be used with LP gas, because LP gas requires a smaller orifice than natural gas. Call your propane supplier IMMEDIATELY...DO NOT USE THIS STOVE UNTIL IT IS CONVERTED TO LP GAS (if it's even possible)...this is extremely dangerous and you could hurt yourself if you continue to use LP gas on a stove that was designed to run on natural gas.
Gas ranges have the high grates to allow air to flow underneath the pot. Smaller grates will make the problem worse not better. Try using hot water to start with and regularly clean the surface of the burner. Oil sometimes clogs the holes the gas comes out of. There are also adjustments that can be made to raise your flame a little but I do not suggest doing this without a working knowledge of gas products.
chanciec sounds like the unit isn't set for the proper fuel. Usually see this when natural gas unit is set for propane. See if the installation directions show converting the gas and adjusting the burners. You are running with too much fuel and not enough air. Since You haven't said what brand or type of range, if sealed burner, the venturnes in the center of the burners are what sets the air adjustment. Hope this at least tells you why this is happening.
I have a G.E. natural gas cook top. All 4 burners have a lot of yellow flame all of a sudden. Is there an adjustment for this I could make? Please explain the best you can.
I am hesitant about answering your question because if the flame is adjusted incorrectly it could be dangerous.
Remove the knob and look inside the stem of the gas valve. You will see a very small adjustment screw. This is where you adjust the flame for the burner.
What I usually do is light the burner and turn it to the lowest setting. Hold the stem in this position and turn the screw. They are usuall kind of stiff to turn.
You want to adjust the flame so that it just comes to the top of the burner cap at the low setting.
This is the important part!!!
When you have got the flame adjusted, put the knob on and turn the flame to high. Quickly turn it from high to low, if the flame goes out, adjust it higher. Repeat this test until you can turn it from high to low quickly and it stay lit.
Also important to remember. When turning the screw, a little turn goes a long way.
Post back if you have any questions.
I did, When I installed the regulator, I turned it upside down so it would not plug with grease. The bottom, which was the top is clean, no grease. The top, which was the bottom, is greasy. I have had regulators plug w/grease, and usually that is the cause of the problem I am having. I have also had an intermittant gas flow if the regulator vent is plugged. I have also had a similar problem with thermostat valves like the BJWA. If it is temporarily cured by thumping on the valve w/a wrench or screwsriver, it is dirt in the valve. This one has me stumped. I have had 4 & 6 burner ranges open top burners with the tubes plugged with grease. If someone cannot tell me the problem, I will just replace the regulator and the flex supply line.
Do you of any boards that discuss commercial gas appliances?
Fireguy01.
I replaced the regulator in October, so I do not think that is the problem. I do have regulators in stock, so I will replace that regulator tommorrow AM. I just received a gas pressure tester. You cannot have to many tools. I will compare the pressure readings between both bean cookers. I do not know the pressures needed for the different appliances, but will get that from the natural gas suppliers.
I am not an appliance repair person, fire suppression is my trade. We do have an appliance repair shop, but they do not work on commercial applainces. So by default, my customers call on me to repair thier gas appliances.
Thanks for helping me.
Fireguy
I just go back from my Mexican resturant w/the bean cooker problem. The gas test port was frozen in place and would not come out. I removed the center burner ring and the gas valve. I plugged my pressure gauge in and found there was only slightly more than 2 "WC. I lite the pilot and turned on the outer ring. The gauge spiked to 8 " WC, then dropped to 3 "WC. I adjusted the regulator to 5" WC and assmbled the burners. I then had a good flame, steady w/a good soft blue color. The flame was not dancing, but steady. I think my new tool was a good investment. Next time I install a regulator I will check the gas pressure.
Thanks for the help.
Fireguy
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