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Dish washer will run through all the cycles but the pump will not work and it is full of water

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Sounds like either the pump has gone out or is clogged. Sorry if I am restating the obvious, but if the pump has gone out then it will most likely need to be replaced. I would first of all make sure nothing is clogging the intake at the bottom of the dishwasher tub.

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: will not pump out dirty water

Is it hooked to a garbage disp. If so make sure the knock out is out. Then if you can use a volt meter. take off the 2 screws at the bottom of the unit on the left side is your drain pump. take off the 2 wires put your meter on ac and put your leads on the wires then run it in a cxl cycle. (the cxl will depend on your unit you will press two buttons @ the same time and hold it it will light up 2(2min))
if you get 110 you have a bad pump........

Posted on Dec 23, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: dish washer that does not pump out the water on it"s final cycle

I had this same problem and after having the repairman over to our house several times and having the circuit board changed, I figured it out on my own...

It turns out that the pressure created from the steam during the water heating stage (HO) was pushing on the door latch just enough to prevent the motor from running properly. Because the door wasn't latched completely, the water wouldn't drain and the dishwasher would go to the "Drying" cycle without ever pumping the water out of the basin.

I adjusted the levelling on the DW and that helped, but I'm still not sure that the problem is fixed. We may need a new latch assembly.

To test this, when the DW stops running at any time, push on the door. If the motor kicks back on, this is the problem.

Posted on Feb 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: The water does not circulate throughout the

have a Bosh SHU43C dishwasher. had used the cancel/drain and now can't get it to stop drainning. tryed everything can think of. what now

Posted on Oct 15, 2009

sodeep
  • 3267 Answers

SOURCE: the dish washer ran its full cycle but won't shut

The drain stuck cycle ( I presume you mean drain pump running constantly ) are directly related with overfill scenarios for Asko dishwashers of this era. This is meaning the control is indicating an overfill has been detected. Whether the unit has actually overfilled or not remains to be seen.

In the event it has, the outlet/drain pump motor is automatically turned on via either the pressure switch or a float in the base if sensing an overfill and removing water from inside the dishwasher will do nothing to resolve this error, but you can...

**before proceeding turn the dishwasher power off via the home breaker panel, or unplug it from the wall if that is possible...most are hard wired to the home electrical...safety first**

The first thing to do is remove the toe panel/kick plate and inspect the base for water. If water is present, with the aid of a sponge, towels, or a wet-dry shop vacuum, absorb the water from the base.

If the unit works fine after resetting the power/breaker it can likely be chalked up to a drain back-up or obstruction in the drain hose or pump.

If not, there are a couple of other possibilities that I'd focus on.

**again insure power to the unit is off**

The first is the float and subsequently, float switch. If you've removed the service panel at the bottom, or toe plate, you need to locate the float and it's switch. It will be located directly behind where your main electrical junction is...

i.e.

macmarkus_4.jpg
Once you've located the float behind the main connection plate, you should see something like this image below,

i.e.


macmarkus_6.jpg
With the aid of a long screwdriver or if you can reach it, move the float up and down and listen closely for the switch to "click", indicating it is indeed functioning.

Restore power again, and see if this resolves the issue, if not try this next...

The pressure switch too can cause the drain/outlet pump to run constantly ( and usually all the lights to flash or "F2"...depending on the era and model of the Asko...ones with displays show F2 ).
As I was saying the pressure switch is the component which controls the normal fill level and the overfill detection...pre float activation. The float is primarily the last ditch safety to notify the user in the event of a overflow, back-flow, or leak underneath the unit to service or call for service to the unit.

It too is located under the machine and is mounted to the sump well assembly as shown, the large arrow indicates the switch while the small is the hose.

i.e.

macmarkus_7.jpg
The issue is possibly just the hose going to the switch is clogged with debris such as dirt, detergent buildup etc and will be remedied by blowing it out.

The best way to do this is to remove this hose at the switch in the location indicated above, be very careful as to not break the hose off with the part of the switch inside, they can be delicate.

I typically work it loose with a tiny screw driver gently working it away from the switch. Once removed, pour a small amount of hot water, white vinegar or "CLR" through the sump from within the tub...or you can try blowing it through with "lung power".

The other end of the hose is located at the back of the sump well and is quite vulnerable to blockages over time due to detergents, dirt, and such.

This is the location...do not break this or you will need to replace the entire sump well...no fun.

Large arrow is pointing back to pressure switch, small indicates connection to sump well, sorry for the poor quality...it's hard to get in there with a camera phone, ha ha !

i.e.


macmarkus_8.jpg
That's almost the extent of the possible causes of this error. Of course it could be the pressure switch has failed, the float switch has failed or ultimately the control has failed, but not likely.

Posted on Jan 21, 2011

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I had this same problem and after having the repairman over to our house several times and having the circuit board changed, I figured it out on my own...

It turns out that the pressure created from the steam during the water heating stage (HO) was pushing on the door latch just enough to prevent the motor from running properly. Because the door wasn't latched completely, the water wouldn't drain and the dishwasher would go to the "Drying" cycle without ever pumping the water out of the basin.

I adjusted the levelling on the DW and that helped, but I'm still not sure that the problem is fixed. We may need a new latch assembly.

To test this, when the DW stops running at any time, push on the door. If the motor kicks back on, this is the problem.

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