Fuel line crack dry out, in pieces

There\'s no "fuel line diagram" for the Maxim-X that I\'m aware of but the fuel lines aren\'t all that complicated.



Let\'s start at the gas tank. The petcock has 2 hoses coming from it - the smaller of the two is not a fuel line - it\'s the vacuum line to trigger the petcock valve and it connects on the hose nipple at the top of the #2 intake manifold. Some people have petcocks where the vacuum hose leaves the petcock toward the back of the bike before doubling back to the #2 manifold. Others have petcocks where the vacuum hose leaves the petcock toward the front of the bike before connecting at the #2 manifold. Either way works. It\'s not important which way as long as the hose doesn\'t get kinked and cut off vacuum from the manifold.



The larger hose from the petcock is, of course, the main fuel feed. From the factory there was not an in-line fuel filter in that hose but there should be. In fact, it\'s one of the first things I recommend to people who are tinkering with their X fuel system. Install an inline fuel filter right behind the petcock as shown here:

http://www.maxim-x.com/fuel_filter.html (there are pictures midway down the page)

The end of the hose emerging from the fuel filter has bends in it in order to neatly find it\'s way to the fuel T between the #2 and #3 carbs. The T is just above the tops of the bowls. Don\'t be afraid if you see the fuel T rotate while pressing the hose onto it - that\'s fine.... unless it rotates too freely in which case the seals might dried up and you might experience some seeping or even full blown leakage around the T fitting where it enters the #2 and #3 carbs. Oh... one more thing about the main fuel hose - there is a guide loop bolted to the carb rack on the rail joining the top-back of the carbs, between the #2 and #3 carbs. The main fuel hose is meant to be held in that guide loop.



Two down - two to go.



There are only two remaining and identical fuel hoses - they are actually float bowl vent/overflow hoses. There are 2 more T fittings on the X Mikunis - both are at the same level.... just a bit higher up than the fuel T for the main fuel hose. There is one vent/overflow T between carbs #1 and #2 and another between carbs #3 and #4. Just like the main fuel inlet, these T fittings also rotate. But unlike the main fuel inlet, if they rotate too freely and imply that the seals may be dried up, it\'s of little consequence because they\'re only vent/overflow fittings anyway. If the carbs are setup right and the float valves aren\'t sticking then there should never be any fuel in those hose at all. Seriously - they should remain forever dry and fuel-free if everything is correct. It\'s only when the float valves stick or if someone incorrectly sets the float levels too high that you\'d ever expect to see any fuel coming from those fittings through either of the vent/overflow hoses.



There is one caution about connecting the 2 vent/overflow hoses. Make sure they aren\'t directed UP from the T fittings and draped over anything before heading down again. The hoses should leave the T fittings in a downward direction, otherwise, if there\'s some kind of condition that causes float levels to be too high, draped hoses will allow the fuel levels to get much higher in the carbs before draining away and that can lead to other unhappy things.



So to sum up - there are only 4 hoses involved in the Maxim-X fuel system (unless you\'re in California in which case there\'s an extra bottle and lines). 1.The petcock vacuum hose, 2.The main fuel feed which goes to a T between carbs #2 & #3 and which should have an inline fuel filter installed, 3.The left float bowl vent/overflow hose which connects to a T between carbs #1 and #2 and should be directed down, and 4.The right float bowl vent/overflow hose which connects to a T between carbs #3 and #4 and should be directed down. That\'s all there is.



HAP

www.maxim-x.com

Observe fuel line from tank to carb. Ensure no cracks. Check connection at carb. Must have a fuel line clamp. Look at carb bowl o see if carb bowl gasket is sealing. Usually an indication of bad fuel line. Fuel line is purchased by the foot at any mower repair shop or some auto parts stores. Bring a piece with you, normally 1/4 inch. May need new fuel hose clamp at carb.

Some possible solutions (from general experience (i'm 55 yrs old)): 1. Plugged up fuel filter; Replace it. Part costs less than $10.00.If the filter is just in front of the tank, it should take a screwdriver and 15 minutes or less to swap. 2. Water in the fuel tank; Add a bottle of "Heat" to the tank. Cost ~ $3.50 or less. This next may require some trouble shooting or head scratching first. DO #1 & #2 First. (Won't hurt & Doesn't cost much) 3a. Partly clogged fuel line. 3b. Cracked fuel line. (Sucks air into the fuel line) Depends where the fuel pump is.(Also look for fuel leaks, especially around hoses in the fuel line.) 3c. Clogged carb.Filter (if it exists). Verify fuel delivered to Carb by disconnect @ Carb. attach small hose to catch container then turn on (NOT Start) ignition.Should hav a steady flow of fuel for at least several seconds. If so, Replace carb. filter. 4. Weak/ failing fuel pump. Major pain but backyard mech can do it with helpmay take half a day.May need to have a few empty gas cans available to save the existing fuel.. Replacement In-Tank pump assembly should be less than $50.00.

The fuel line on the 141 is very small and wasn't really meant to be replaced for some reason, as it is a pinch fit. Buy the smallest fuel line you can, usually 1/8th OD inch fuel line. Remove the air-filter and the carburetor. You will need to drill out the
current hole a little bit, so go slowly. As soon as the new fuel line will fit _tightly_ insert the line. You will have to remove the hand-bar and the
anti-vibration bolts to separate the motor mount portion from the gas tank which is part of the hand grip.

Apply some gasoline proof gasket sealant to the space between the gap, else you will have a gas leak from the tank sooner or later.

Reassemble the grip and motor sections back together and let the sealant dry for a day or so. Put the carb and air filter back on and attach the fuel line to the carb and the other end to the fuel filter in the gas tank.

The primer pulls fuel from the carb, into the bulb , and back into the tank, there are two conections on the back of the primer, the shot conection is the suction side so connects to the carb, the longer conection is the pressure side, so this goes back to the tank, it just pushes into the top of the tank with nothing on the end, just a tight fit in the tank, the line from the tank with the filter on the end gose to the fuel inlet on the carb, nearest to the alluminium pump side cover normally held with a single screw.

If you have the saw I think you do, here is the deal. You have two hoses that go to the tank, one is a larger diameter than the other. The smaller diam. hose runs from the tank to the "inlet" side of the carburetor. (the fitting closest to the fuel pump cover, held on by one screw). This line rest in the bottom of the tank attached to a fuel filter. The larger diam. line attaches to the "tank" side of the primer or "outlet" side and sits in the tank about 1/4"-1/2", (there is generally a fitting on this end to prevent it from being pulled out of the hole). The third line, usually the same diam. as the fuel line, attaches to the primer "carb" fitting or "suction" side and attachs to the other fitting on the carb. The lines are best fed by cutting them at an angle on one end (approx. 2") and feed the angled end into the hole from the outside of the tank. Once you get about two inches inside the tank, reach in with a pair of needle nose and pull the hose the rest of the way. Sometimes you may need to remove the carburetor to gain access to the holes. Hope this helps.

the primer bulb draws gas through the carb 'C' and back to the tank'T' leaving a small amount of fresh gas in the carb.to replace the lines from filter to carb & bulb to tank,you may have to remove handle & split the housing halves to find where lines enter tank.look in tank W/ a flashlight.to replace lines cut new line on an angle,feed a piece of # 14 copper wire through hole from inside tank.slide new line over wire,the wire will help align fuel line with hole.use needle-nose pliers to push line into tank,& to pull it through once you can see it.cut off end of hose you beat up with pliers.push filter on hose to carb.drop it back in tank."T' line is the return.dosn't matter which line is through top or bottom hole.

The larger of the fuel lines is the main fuel line. It is the one that has the filter stuck in the end of it and runs out the larger hole in the tank to a fitting on the carb. The smaller line should be about one inch into the tank and comes out the smaller hole and runs to one of the nipples on the primer bulb. Press the primer bulb and put your finger in front of the fittings. The one that you feel air coming out of when you do this is the fitting that runs from the primer bulb to the carb. Hope this helps and good luck.

Line from tank with the filter on it is the supply line and goes to the carb inlet fitting. This is typically on the "bottom" of the carb (with the tank being up) and will usually have a fitting with barbs or a bulge on it to ensure a tight fit. The other fitting on the carb is the return line and is usually a straight tube fitting with no barbs. That line goes the suction side of the primer bulb. The third line goes from the outlet of the primer bulb to the return barb fitting in the bottom of the tank. Fittings have to be removed from tank to properly install the new hoses on them. Remove retainer ring on outside of tank and push fittings into tank, then shake out of the fill opening. More details on proper installation follows.

If yours is like all the Ryobi units that I have seen you just need a piece about 12" long of 1/8 ID fuel line. You can usually order that from parts suppliers or get it at some lawn and garden repairs shops. Hardware stores will not likely have it. There is a fitting with a hose barb on it that fits through the tank. On the outside of the tank on the bottom there will be a round plastic ring, assuming the fitting is still in place and just the hose split at the fitting. Use a knife or thin blade of some type to pry off ring. It is actually around the hose that is over the barb. Keep ring, you will need again. Now push fitting up into the tank. You may have to trim off the hose that is outside the tank on the barb to get it to go into the tank. Shake tank around and get fitting out of tank. You will see there is a piece of hose on it yet. Remove that piece of hose. Now take the new hose and slide it onto the barb. It must go all the way to the top of the barb fitting so that the hose actually goes into the tank through the hole drilled in the tank. The OD of the hose acts as the seal to keep gas from leaking out of the tank. You may need to put some oil of some type (vegetable oil works well) on the barb and inside of hose to help slip it on and use some pliers with smooth or rounded jaws ( no serrations, will damage hose) to get hose on. Thread other end of hose into the fill hole of the tank and out the hole in the bottom of the tank. Hint: Straighten out paper clip or use small wire inserted into the hole from the bottom of the tank up towards the fill opening. Slip tube over that and use the wire to guid the tube directly to the opening. Pull hose through the tank. When fitting with barb and hose over it reached the hole in the tank it will resist being pulled through. Carefully pull firmly on hose to stretch it so the hose/fitting "bulge" pulls into the hole in the tank. Look into tank and see when top flange of fitting is tight against the bottom inside of tank. You should see bottom of barb outside of the tank with the hose on it. Once in place put the plastic retainer ring back over hose and push up to bottom of tank. It should fit snuggly when you get to the "bulge" area. Cut hose length as needed to fit onto straight tube fitting on primer bulb. Should be good to go. You may find that the other hoses are getting bad also and may want to change them at the same time, as they will probably be ready to crack also. You can reuse filter from tank if it is not plugged, just add a new hose as described previously. Otherwise you can order a new filter with the line already on it. That line goes directly to the carb inlet barb. That barb is also hard to push hose on. Third line is from the return side of the carb to the suction side of the primer bulb. That is just a straight piece of 1/8" ID hose and pushes onto straight tube fittings, very easy to get hose on compared to barb fittings.