Question about GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

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After self cleaning ge oven, door won't unlock

Help!

I'm stuck with an oven that won't open after self-cleaning. It constantly flashes door locked and beeps about every 10 minutes.

It's Christmas Eve and I have to do my holiday baking!

EEEEKKKK!

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  • montezs Apr 18, 2008

    accidently hit self clean tried to cancel but door is locked and will not unlock oven did not go into cleaning cycle. HELP !! need to use oven

    cannot get door unlocked.

  • doorlocked May 21, 2008

    can't stop self cleaner and open the door

  • Anonymous Jun 09, 2008

    I have an electric GE oven and it finished it's self cleaning cycle and not just shows LOCKED DOOR and will not open.

  • mvchome Sep 05, 2008

    Same issue!  I was cooking, and after a bit of wine, I hit clean button instead of off button.  I  noticed it in about 2 minutes, but the door will not unlock. Help!

  • randypolston Sep 09, 2008

    turned power off.

  • Anonymous Oct 01, 2008

    my oven flashes FA U and CLEAN DOOR LOCKED. its been like this for 2 days!!!!

  • Anonymous Nov 24, 2008

    After the cleaning cycle was over sign shows as door locked and beeping on lower oven of GE double wall oven.

    How do I correct this?

  • sunshine4418 Jan 19, 2009

    Ge oven won't unlock it's door for me either. Continually flashes "locked".

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I turned off circuit breaker to the oven and tried to open it. It did not. I did it again and waited for a few minutes, it worked and I was able to open the door.

Posted on Aug 10, 2010

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1 Answer

Had cleaned GE oven yesterday using SELF CLEAN and today my oven will not work as it keeps flashing UNLOCK DOOR when the door is already open. Cant use the oven


There is a sensor/switch that sends a signal that the oven door is locked and that it is unlocked, it must be defective.

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Why is oven door locked and won't open?


Troubleshooting a GE Oven That Can Not Get Out of Locked ...

motherhood.modernmom.com > Around the House > Home Appliances
Self-cleaning GE ovens have a locking oven door as a safety feature. ... How to Troubleshoot a GE Artica Profile Refrigerator That Won't Get Cold ... Allow the oven to cool down if there is food inside the oven, and unlock the door once the ...

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My GE wall oven is stuck on lock mode. I cancelled a self clean (I know, big mistake) and after cooling down it still won't unlock. I've cut the power and still nothing. It's been 3 days! Trying to avoid...


Try putting it back in self clean. Listen to see if it locks. then cancel the self clean. It could be the self clean lock motor has gone bad. The lock hook can be moved to unlock the door by inserting a stiff wire like a coat hanger between the door and the oven and moving the latch over to unlock the door.

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Used self cleaning process on my oven yesterday and today the oven will not turn on, we keep getting message to unlock the oven door even though it is. What can we do?


The oven gets extremely hot during the self-cleaning mode... the door switch might have got stuck in locked position, or broken in locked position (to be replaced), let's hope it's just stuck...which you'll need to work the mechanical lock-unlock latching back and forth to hopefully unstick....and if that doesn't work just re-run self-cleaning process but this time let the oven cool completely before unlocking the door. Hope this helps.

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GE Electric Double Oven Door Will Not Unlock


Hi,

Seems like you found out the hard way what I wrote about in this tip...

Check it out it also contains some thing to try on how to unlock that oven..

Self Cleaning Oven Problem

heatman101

Asker's Testimonial " Wish I had read this first. I never would have usedthe self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks

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The switch inside the door lock mechanism is stuck down making the unit think it is still locked.  the switched is located next to the hook that locks your door.

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The convection fan comes on intermittently, starts smoking then goes off. Temperature on the display doesn't move from 100F (then it did). My wife left the door closed while it was on broil last night (not sure how long), and this morning I woke up to the smell of burnt electrical and something (one of the fans...? not sure as it was far earlier than I usually get up) running that stopped when I opened the oven door and restarted when I closed it (I'm thinking it was probably running all night). While at work, I turned the breaker off, then pulled the oven out this evening. After taking some of the metal plates off, I put the power back on and turned the oven on for a 450F bake. I don't know if the little cooling fan at the top of the unit is supposed to go on when I have the top exposed and getting plenty of air; it wasn't and it also had a faint burnt electrical smell. After disconnecting then plugging the fan power connector to the circuit board the fan ran for 10-15 seconds before it started smoking and quit. I checked voltage across the fan leads and there wasn't any. I shut the oven off, tripped the breaker, and let it cool. I then tried testing the fan motor directly i.e. bypassing the oven and using a regular outlet since the motor is rated for 120V. It ran for ~1 minute, then smoked and quit. The smoke is definitely coming from the fan rather than any adjoining wires. Is this a case of the fan AND the control board going south or one contributing to the other's demise? I should add that the clock display has been dimming for a couple of years. UPDATE (2/20): I tried just baking (as opposed to convection baking) and the bottom element did come on (I'd reported earlier that it hadn't... that was because I was using convection baking and that does only heat around the fan... just my ignorance on that one). However, the temperature readout on the display did not move from 100F though it was clearly hotter than that in the oven. I then stopped the baking mode and started convection baking. This time the temperature gauge immediately went to 141F and kept climbing. Resistance at the (room temp) temperature sensor (and at the end of the wiring harness plugged into the control board was ~1100 ohms at room temp (as its supposed to be).

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