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Re: I am looking for a wiring diagram for an esab...
Don't tthink you will find a diagram for it but pull te capacitor out andtake it to a motor rewinding shop or any electronics store and they can give you the size and value for the capactor. They have manuals to figure out the farad capacity.
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First of all; it is DANGEROUS to fix a power supply if you don't know what you are doing. Thus; don't even think about to open power supply tower, if you are not qualified enough.
If you are a qualified person, you can go on with below steps by taking risk on your own.
You must discharge biggest capacitors in order to avoid any fatal electrical shock. Even it is disconnected from electricity plug, power supply may keep high voltage in it for long time. Once you discharge big capacitors; you may diassemble power supply tower. At your question you mentioned about burned power supply which makes it a little bit easier. (I assume you discharged big capacitors) Once you open psu tower; do visual inspection on each capacitor. If there is a burned area start with it. Remove blowed capacitors and replace them with same valued new capacitors. If you can't see the values on blowed capacitors; you need to find board diagram of your psu. Otherwise you can't find suitable one to replace. Besides; check form of other capacitors. If there is a change on any capacitor's form, replace them too. The best way to find out dead capacitors is using capacitor testers. If problem caused by another type item; its not easy to find it as finding bad capacitors.
A) FOLLOWING Anti-Static Precautions? If you, or someone who had the board before you didn't, you can use it for a Frisbee now.
(WOW! Look at that thing GO!)
B) Processor installed with Heatsink, and fan hooked up; and Ram Memory installed -> ONLY; you should get BIOS Beep Codes, and maybe Error Codes; plus the BIOS Setup screen. (Hooked to VGA monitor. No AGP graphics card used)
C) Look at the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard. (Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors to be exact)
Scroll down. Look under -> Dimensions - to get the physical size you need.
D) Power Supply: Whip out your multimeter, and with the Function knob set to DC Voltage, check the 3 main voltage power rails. (If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line)
Check at the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.
I use a straightened out paperclip, and insert down into the back of the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector. The BACK is where the wires go in.
The straightened out paperclip is inserted down into the socket hole, in the Back of the connector; and slides past the insulation of that wire. It MUST touch a metal terminal at the end of the wire.
Every wire going down into that ATX main power cable's connector; ends in a female Molex metal terminal.
Orange wires are 3.3 Volts. Red wires are 5 Volts. Yellow wires are 12 Volts. Black wires are Ground wires.
ALL Orange wires end in ONE central pint in the Power Supply. This is the 3.3 Volt power rail. You can test ANY Orange wire, and test the entire 3.3 Volt power rail.
Same with the Red 5 Volt wires, and Yellow 12 Volt wires. Pick one to test.
Paperclip in Positive socket hole, in 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector. Plus paperclip in ANY Black wire socket hole.
3.3 Volt, 5 Volt, and 12 Volt wires are POSITIVE wires.
Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter touches Orange, OR Red, Or Yellow wire - paperclip. Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter touches Black wire paperclip.
Worried about shock? Naa. The dangerous voltage is contained in the case of the Power Supply. 100 to 240 Volts AC.
The Power Supply converts this AC voltage into the low DC Voltages stated above. In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.
NOT saying there may not be a spark! Connect a wire to a flashlight battery, and touch it to the bulb, and there is gonna be a spark. Just the way electricity works.
This is why I suggest for those who are new at this; to have the Power Supply unplugged from power; and insert two straightened out paperclips, in the socket holes of the ATX main power cable's connector.
Then (Making sure they don't touch each other), plug the Power Supply into power, and touch the paperclips with the probe leads of the multimeter.
Tested 3.3 Volt power rail? (Orange wire) Then unplug the Power Supply from power, and move the paperclip over to a Red wire socket hole. Test for 5 Volts.
Same again for the 12 Volt power rail. (Yellow wire)
Or use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; for a test unit. Perhaps there is a working computer you can borrow one from.
For additional questions please post in a Comment. Regards, joecoolvette
[Are you sure the Ram Memory is plugged in tightly? CANNOT just visually inspect. Remove, and reinstall to be SURE.
Are you sure the Ram Memory is the correct Frequency Rate? ('Speed') Ram Memory typically operates at HALF of the Processor's Front Side Bus. (FSB) ]
Short of going direct to the manufacturer and getting the genuine part off them using the model number, it would be very difficult. Compressor size and machine size very often have no bearing on what capacitance the capacitor has... Have a very close look at the capacitor for a uf rating.. this is the value you need. sometimes, it is listed on the wiring diagram which is usually behind the panel which covers the main wiring terminal box on the outdoor unit.
1) Whatever company that made that Nvidia 9800GT graphics card, isn't going to produce a schematic for the general public. (EVGA, VisionTek, Galaxy, Sparkle, BFG, etc.)
They paid big bucks to Nvidia for the GPU, the schematics, and all licensing fees.
2) If you indicate that you believe most of the capacitors, (Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors), are of the same values, capacitance, and voltage, then remove another one of them, and test the capacitance.
Multimeter set to OHM's. An economical unit can be purchased for around $5 to $12. Most auto parts stores carry them, as well as a multitude of other stores.
3) The Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors you are looking at, have the values printed on them. They are just in the capacitor manufacturer's code.
is this a Samsung LN or LNT model? if so there are two or three bad capacitors in the power supply...all of them located in upper right hand corner of the board between the heatsink up there and the wiring harness that jumps over to the main board. Look for the capacitors that have their tops buldged up. Change them with same value 1000uf 10v or 2200uf 16v or however they are marked (different size screen used different value caps)
The issue you describe is consistent with a power supply board issue. This is the board where the AC goes to. This problem may have occurred as a result of irregular power supply, or excess power supply or power surge.
The TV is receiving current but cannot circulate or transfer the current to other necessary part of the TV because of the defective power supply board.
I do not think it needs replacement, rather some defective capacitors are causing this issue. Open unit up and take a look at the power supply board.You will probably see one or more electrolytic filter capacitors that are bulged up in the top-not perfectly flat like the others.
The value of these capacitors will be different, most likely they will be somewhere around-820 to 2200uF/25 V( or /10V sometimes)
You can replace them with same values but I would recommend the voltage rating to be higher(like 35V for an original 25V) for reliability purposes.
What happens is,these bulged top capacitors will cause a low and unfiltered DC voltage=main board will malfunction(the relay will keep clicking until the caps are holding enough charge to bring the voltage up over a threshold point).
You can buy these capacitors at any Fry's or Radioshack store or you can order them online at vendors like "mcmelectronics.com"(look for electrolytic capacitors). After replacing these capacitor(capacitors) most likely the normal operation will be restored.
Note: There may be also some other causes for this symptom ,like a defective T con board ,or main board,but the bulged top capacitors are the most common cause for this issue.
If you don't know about TV repairers, take the TV to the nearest repairman to fix the fault for you. Also, note that TV stores a lot of current, so wait a while before opening the TV back cover.
This is a college course you are asking for. On older motherboards, the main source of issues are the filter capacitors on the board. Look for any where the top of the case is slightly or even prominently rounded. These need to be replaced. Be aware this is difficult to do! The capacitors need to be cut off carefully and the leads CAREFULLY extracted from the board. The holes have to be clean of solder fill and the new parts have to be rated the same or higher in ALL values, temperature rating included. Regulators come in specific flavours. 5 volt, 3.3 volt, 2.5 volt and 1.1 volt. The boards will run one regulator into the other, one at a time to spread the heat out. Its pretty difficult to replace these without damaging the board unless you have practice. Regulator values are in the part number. You can look up regulators on electronic parts sites like Digi-key, etc. Regulators have three leads, one has power in, one is connected to ground (0), the third is the regulated value. A voltage off by 5% is rare on a working part. The leads may not follow any order. A flat pack case is usually power, on a stand up case the tab is usually ground.
GO THROUGH TRACING THE MAIN CORD, IT WILL LEAD YOU TO MAIN BOARD, MOST PROJECTION TV HAVE 2 OR MORE BOARDS.....IF YOU ARE ABLE TO SEE BIG CAPACITORS HAVING 400V OR MORE VALUE, THATS THE ONE..CHECK OUT..
There should be a circuit designation for this part marked on the PC board, for example C631. Start by posting that designation. Having that will allow anyone with access to the service information to post the value of the part.